Should you use 0000 grit steel wool to clean your cue?

[Catch 22]

Baby wipe and then an immediate buff with cue towel to dry.
Baby wipe will show up all the dirt.

I then give it a second pass with a fresh baby wipe (always going from butt to tip direction,)

Second baby wipe usually only has a mild or amount of dirt on it

Then buff with a cue towel toll cue is warm from buffing

[TooDark]

I would never use 0000 steel wool on its own to clean a cue shaft.
If you are going to use it I suggest you mix linseed oil,white vinegar and pure turps. Then soak the 0000 steel wool
with it.

Personally I just use A4 paper.
You can see all the green crap come off and leaves the cue with a nice silky finish which you wouldn't have if you used 0000 steel wool

A4 paper trick is a good tip:encouragement:
To minimise chalk on shaft is to always tilt your when chalk rather upright.

[travisbickle]

A4 paper trick is a good tip:encouragement:
To minimise chalk on shaft is to always tilt your when chalk rather upright.

Most of the time that's all a cue needs tbh.

Once a month I'll rub & buff off with a little beeswax and it's as good as new :snooker:

[Shockerz]

before every session is a little often, iused to do it around once every 6 months!

I totally agree now Andy (obviously).

I was advised when I got back into the game that it was fine and wouldn't cut deep enough for the wood and could use it as often as you liked, I know different now.

I just wanted to share it as it's taken a few years to see the change in the cue and it may help others.

I've learned a lot in the last few years, especially from this forum so this is a nice 'What not to do!'

Back to the damp cloth.....

[Shockerz]

Baby wipe and then an immediate buff with cue towel to dry.
Baby wipe will show up all the dirt.

I then give it a second pass with a fresh baby wipe (always going from butt to tip direction,)

Second baby wipe usually only has a mild or amount of dirt on it

Then buff with a cue towel toll cue is warm from buffing

The baby wipe are good and I've used them a lot since changing my cue. I sometimes run bit of white spirit if the cue gets really grimy but probably only every 6 months.

I've learned a lot of ways on how NOT to clean a cue before learning the better methods; all advise from people that know and quite a few that don't!

I'm pretty up to date on it nowadays but not when I first picked a cue up again.

[tinytim139]

someone in our pool team uses any sandpaper he can get his hands on quick sand before every match and use talc powder. cringe! every time i say something he's like what's it matter, not your cue is it !!

[travisbickle]

someone in our pool team uses any sandpaper he can get his hands on quick sand before every match and use talc powder. cringe! every time i say something he's like what's it matter, not your cue is it !!

Sandpaper :nightmare:

[narl]

Seen a guy in our league the other night who's a 100 break player doing the old chalking the v of the bridge hand, rare to see people do that these days, even rarer to see a good player doing it. Whole point of chalk is to create friction on the tip..not the bridge.

[Shockerz]

Seen a guy in our league the other night who's a 100 break player doing the old chalking the v of the bridge hand, rare to see people do that these days, even rarer to see a good player doing it. Whole point of chalk is to create friction on the tip..not the bridge.

Seen a few players over the years using the chalk on their bridge hand. Tried it once and it was ok but probably not the best solution if sweaty hand or the cue not gliding enough.

I've gone back to a damp cloth now and then a dry one immediately. It works virtually all the time until humidity kicks in.

[blahblah01]

I assumed it would be too abrasive, but MW recommends it here: https://handmadecues.com/cue-oil/ I accept that he knows his onions, but.... I can just about get my head around using it to clean when soaked in White Spirit etc before applying oil\wax finish.

[anish147]

I assumed it would be too abrasive, but MW recommends it here: https://handmadecues.com/cue-oil/ I accept that he knows his onions, but.... I can just about get my head around using it to clean when soaked in White Spirit etc before applying oil\wax finish.

I followed his video and it definitely works. I used white spirit, let it dry, then 0000 steel wool. The shaft felt super smooth. Then 2-3 coats of wax, and interestingly, you can use the steel wool instead of a cloth to polish the wax after it's been left on for a short period (depending on which wax/oil you use). If you're not super tough with it, you get an amazing sheen.

[Shockerz]

I followed his video and it definitely works. I used white spirit, let it dry, then 0000 steel wool. The shaft felt super smooth. Then 2-3 coats of wax, and interestingly, you can use the steel wool instead of a cloth to polish the wax after it's been left on for a short period (depending on which wax/oil you use). If you're not super tough with it, you get an amazing sheen.

What sort of wax are you using to shine your cue? Always interested to see what others use.

[Shockerz]

I followed his video and it definitely works. I used white spirit, let it dry, then 0000 steel wool. The shaft felt super smooth. Then 2-3 coats of wax, and interestingly, you can use the steel wool instead of a cloth to polish the wax after it's been left on for a short period (depending on which wax/oil you use). If you're not super tough with it, you get an amazing sheen.

Totally agree with the comments on steel wool (0000 grit). The only caution I would give is when I returned to snooker a few years ago I was given some advice regarding steel wool. I was told it doesn't take any wood off, only the dirt and grime. Over a five year period I only used a damp cloth and 0000 grit steel wool before every session of snooker and I was playing a fair bit.

It took around 4 to 5 years and the cue taper had reduced significantly enough that it now resides on a case and I have a new one.

Steel wool occasionally when all else fails but a damp cloth in normal cue cleaning and only the steel wool on periodic maintenance.

Great video from Mike with lots of good tips from a top cue maker.

[anish147]

Totally agree with the comments on steel wool (0000 grit). The only caution I would give is when I returned to snooker a few years ago I was given some advice regarding steel wool. I was told it doesn't take any wood off, only the dirt and grime. Over a five year period I only used a damp cloth and 0000 grit steel wool before every session of snooker and I was playing a fair bit.

It took around 4 to 5 years and the cue taper had reduced significantly enough that it now resides on a case and I have a new one.

Steel wool occasionally when all else fails but a damp cloth in normal cue cleaning and only the steel wool on periodic maintenance.

Great video from Mike with lots of good tips from a top cue maker.

Fully agree - I think the steel wool does take the finest of layers off especially if you're a bit tough with it, so I use it once every 6-12 months when I re-wax my cue. Otherwise just a cloth

[anish147]

What sort of wax are you using to shine your cue? Always interested to see what others use.

I use this:

https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/fiddes-wax

I went on a search a year ago and decided that any expert with wood furniture would know how to look after quality wood and therefore I decided to try a furniture wax.

I like the Sanman's idea of Meguirs, but there's something about using a car product that makes me feel uncomfortable. Lots of videos on YouTube on how to look after wood and different finishes you get with different oils and waxes - you could probably use any of them I guess.

I'm also trying out Tru-oil on the butt of the cues I have - looks to give a nice shine and gloss, once waxed.