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  • Finish Cue

    Someone has already used a waterproofing finish on ash? in case you would not use varnish, oil and sealer, you would sand the wood and apply the direct waterproofing!
    I applied on an old cue to do a test before applying on my official cue, but apparently the wood did not stay with the waterproofing effect ...
    the waterproofing I'm referring to is leather, I thought it could work on wood, does anyone have any opinion about it?
    ”Corium sana in iaculat sano”

  • #2
    Originally Posted by bart07 View Post
    Someone has already used a waterproofing finish on ash? in case you would not use varnish, oil and sealer, you would sand the wood and apply the direct waterproofing!
    I applied on an old cue to do a test before applying on my official cue, but apparently the wood did not stay with the waterproofing effect ...
    the waterproofing I'm referring to is leather, I thought it could work on wood, does anyone have any opinion about it?
    Linseed oil/beeswax is all you need on bare wood to begin with.
    Once the cue has a nice smooth finish just use lemon oil/beeswax every month or so, as linseed oil is very sticky.
    Job done

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    • #3
      Don't do it, wax oil or dreaded varnish are all water proof why would you bother trying to use something not designed for wood?
      No one is listening until you make a mistake!

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      • #4
        There are lots of good finishes you can use...
        I use Danish oil more as it doesn't need to be left over night too dry.
        Only needs 10-20 minutes, depending how warm the room is.
        Also wax finished as some real allergic to oils, have a friend that is.
        For that one you've always wanted...
        https://www.facebook.com/ninjacues/

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        • #5
          Originally Posted by culraven View Post
          Don't do it, wax oil or dreaded varnish are all water proof why would you bother trying to use something not designed for wood?
          I've used flaxseed oil, but when I leave the bare wood I feel it much smoother when compared to oil, so I was looking for an alternative protection...

          I will see if I find Danish and lemon oil, sometimes it can be a quality linseed oil and so I do not feel a smooth smooth!
          Last edited by bart07; 12 October 2017, 03:11 PM.
          ”Corium sana in iaculat sano”

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          • #6
            Tung oil is a good alternative to Linseed oil, I always avoid wax on cue shafts as dirt sticks to it resulting in stickiness. Liberon Finishing oil is really good.

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            • #7
              Originally Posted by Ninja.cues View Post
              There are lots of good finishes you can use...
              I use Danish oil more as it doesn't need to be left over night too dry.
              Only needs 10-20 minutes, depending how warm the room is.
              Also wax finished as some real allergic to oils, have a friend that is.
              What Danish oil are you using that only needs 10-20 mins to dry Ninja? everyone I've ever used needs 5-8 hrs to dry fully before you can add a second coat.

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              • #8
                Originally Posted by Dave Walton View Post
                What Danish oil are you using that only needs 10-20 mins to dry Ninja? everyone I've ever used needs 5-8 hrs to dry fully before you can add a second coat.
                Get mine from a company near me.
                Plus it does need to be a warm room or day for that.
                http://www.wsjenkins.co.uk
                For that one you've always wanted...
                https://www.facebook.com/ninjacues/

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                • #9
                  valew lads I will see if I find here in Brazil some these oils and then I give a return!
                  ”Corium sana in iaculat sano”

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally Posted by Ninja.cues View Post
                    Originally Posted by Dave Walton View Post
                    What Danish oil are you using that only needs 10-20 mins to dry Ninja? everyone I've ever used needs 5-8 hrs to dry fully before you can add a second coat.
                    Get mine from a company near me.
                    Plus it does need to be a warm room or day for that.
                    http://www.wsjenkins.co.uk
                    Even on a warm day that still seems awfully quick mate

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