Looking for a clear oil finish

[Nereis]

Hi everyone,

Does anyone know of an oil that is clear and does not yellow the cue?
Does the oil have to be a drying oil, or can it also be non-drying; for example mineral oil?

[qc2]

Clear isn't totally possible, believe me I've tried! In my spare time I've been re-finishing cues, experimenting with a number of different oils, combinations and recipes. I've now got one I'm happy with that compared to raw linseed oil is much faster drying and doesn't darken the shaft anywhere near as much. get up to 10 posts and pm me

[vmax]

No such product as all wood finishing oils have a colour to them. Closest I've found is Colron natural danish oil, and clear mineral oils like 3in1 are a no no as they don't contain dryers so remain tacky and will also make your cue smell like an engineering factory.

[Nereis]

Is boiled linseed or tung oil OK to use? Or do the dryers (metal salts if I'm not mistaken) affect the wood?

[qc2]

People advise against boiled but it does work though in my experience does darken more than raw linseed oil would.

Tung oil would work too and is often the base oil for most danish oils. I've not found boiled or danish oils to have an adverse effect on the wood. If anything the added protection and UV filters in some danish oils might even be preferred.

[Nereis]

People advise against boiled but it does work though in my experience does darken more than raw linseed oil would.

Tung oil would work too and is often the base oil for most danish oils. I've not found boiled or danish oils to have an adverse effect on the wood. If anything the added protection and UV filters in some danish oils might even be preferred.

It has been said, however, that raw linseed oil takes ages to dry. Is that true in your experience? I've also read that pure tung oil gives a lighter, more natural finish than linseed oil which yellows the wood. Is this true?

[matthias]

I have just ordered this stuff,(didn't come in yet)
but if it does what is says on the tin it could be great.

http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.c...ce-wax-polish/

[DeanH]

It has been said, however, that raw linseed oil takes ages to dry. Is that true in your experience? I've also read that pure tung oil gives a lighter, more natural finish than linseed oil which yellows the wood. Is this true?

I have used raw linseed oil for many years and it does take longer to dry than boiled linseed oil; but it is a matter of days and with frequent buffing with dry cloth/papertowels can dry the oil faster; I have used a cue the following day after a light oiling.
Never used Tung (as I have so much linseed oil left ) and have heard it is lighter than linseed but can be harder to apply than linseed, so more care is required.

With any finish being used the trick is to not apply too much in each application and wipe off the excess and allow to dry before any further application

[qc2]

It has been said, however, that raw linseed oil takes ages to dry. Is that true in your experience? I've also read that pure tung oil gives a lighter, more natural finish than linseed oil which yellows the wood. Is this true?

Any tung based danish oil i've tried has given a lighter finish than raw linseed so i'd agree tung would be lighter. though it does darken and takes forever to dry i actually like the finish linseed gives. another option would be artists' or refined linseed which is lighter and goes give a lighter finish than regular raw linseed.

[anish147]

I have just ordered this stuff,(didn't come in yet)
but if it does what is says on the tin it could be great.

http://www.thefurnitureconnoisseur.c...ce-wax-polish/

Very interested to see how this works for you - please feedback.

I use a furniture wax too by Fiddes and think it works really well without colouring and absolutely no stickiness...but I haven't used any oils so cannot compare yet.

[matthias]

Very interested to see how this works for you - please feedback.

I use a furniture wax too by Fiddes and think it works really well without colouring and absolutely no stickiness...but I haven't used any oils so cannot compare yet.

no problem mate, it should come in today, will let you know over the weekend

[vmax]

I have some pure tung oil and only use when thinned with white spirit at a 2-1 ratio ( that's 2 oil to 1 spirit), otherwise it's a little too thick to apply evenly and takes an awful lot longer to dry. It gives the wood a lovely golden brown colour, and the more coats you apply the deeper the colour.
I have some boiled linseed and again only use when thinned at a 2-1 ratio, the danish I use straight from the can as it's already a mixture of different oils.

As for keeping a shaft as white as possible I would use a clear wax finish, but all timber deepens in colour as it ages so it isn't going to stay that way forever

[anish147]

Thanks Matthias.

Vmax - which wax do you use?

I visited Robert Osbourne this week and he says he just uses boiled linseed oil. The cues in his rack all have an aged wood appearance - very nice but definitely has that vintage wood look to it

[vmax]

Vmax - which wax do you use?

I still have half a tin left of some Betterware antique furniture wax that I bought thirty years ago when I first got my cue. I clean and wax my cue once a year so what's left in the tin should last another thirty years. Any top grade antique furniture wax will do.

[vmax]

Just found an oil that seems to be clearer than most, the one on the left known as Bright for light coloured wood.

http://tifotas.appspot.com/Accessori...l/161290789975