Hairline crack

[cyclone crouch]

Hi guys, long story short, I was retipping a couple of cues, thought I'd Re-oil mine at the same time so left it in the sun last week as I'd read somewhere that doing so can darken the shaft. Anyway. Not long later I noticed a fairly long hairline crack on bottom splice. So question is do I send it off to a cue maker? having a search it seems a lot of people have repaired these themselves with clue etc. I'm concerned as its not ebony and don't want to stand out. How easy and have you had good results doing it yourself?
Do I get the bottom splices changed? As I did see one on the same area last year but adding oil seemed to sort it so I'm thinking this type of wood will split in the future, any advise is much appreciated.
Will try and add some photos

[cyclone crouch]

https://imageshack.us/user/Topcat147

Hope this works, trying on here it says the file is too large, ��

[Shockerz]

Hi guys, long story short, I was retipping a couple of cues, thought I'd Re-oil mine at the same time so left it in the sun last week as I'd read somewhere that doing so can darken the shaft. Anyway. Not long later I noticed a fairly long hairline crack on bottom splice. So question is do I send it off to a cue maker? having a search it seems a lot of people have repaired these themselves with clue etc. I'm concerned as its not ebony and don't want to stand out. How easy and have you had good results doing it yourself?
Do I get the bottom splices changed? As I did see one on the same area last year but adding oil seemed to sort it so I'm thinking this type of wood will split in the future, any advise is much appreciated.
Will try and add some photos

Personally I'd give it to a cue maker if you value the cue.

Leaving a lump of wood in the sun may darken the wood. Leaving a cue in the sun will cook the glue causing cracks as the wood expands.

Cue should avoid all extremes of temperature if it is to remain stable and straight.

I posted a picture of a cue in a care last week in a metal case, sure fire recipe to wreck the cue with the sort of heat we are experiencing at the moment.

[Ninja.cues]

There is a chance it might not be a crack but just were the two quotes have moved a leaves a ridge and had some think it was a crack..

[cyclone crouch]

Yes agree. It was bloody hot, gutted as its my top playing cue and thought I wouldn't damage it. all the splices are absolutely bang on, so definitely want to get it sorted, I am very tempted to get some epoxy resin putty in terracotta, apparently its easy to fill, sand then oil!!!
But..... Will it turn in to a horror story!
Ive not done it before so probably best send it to someone with more experience.

[bigandyg]

It's not a crack just the spices drying out at different speeds easy touch up job.

[fkhan]

It’s best to avoid exposing the cue to extreme temperatures.

[cyclone crouch]

It's not a crack just the spices drying out at different speeds easy touch up job.

What would you suggest using bigandy? Superglue from fridge? , putty? A bandaid? Lol.
Is it easy enough for me to roll my sleeves up?

Outdoor snooker in extreme sunshine is now banned, unless the cue is wrapped in bark!!!

[DeanH]

Factor 50 sun cream!

[vmax]

Hi guys, long story short, I was retipping a couple of cues, thought I'd Re-oil mine at the same time so left it in the sun last week as I'd read somewhere that doing so can darken the shaft. Anyway. Not long later I noticed a fairly long hairline crack on bottom splice. So question is do I send it off to a cue maker? having a search it seems a lot of people have repaired these themselves with clue etc. I'm concerned as its not ebony and don't want to stand out. How easy and have you had good results doing it yourself?
Do I get the bottom splices changed? As I did see one on the same area last year but adding oil seemed to sort it so I'm thinking this type of wood will split in the future, any advise is much appreciated.
Will try and add some photos

It seems that the butt is some kind of rosewood that is naturally oily and leaving it out in the sun has dried it out and contracted the wood leaving a small line between the splices, so remove the finish with meths and 0000 grade wire wool rubbing very gently and allow ten minutes to dry, then liberally apply some finishing oil with 400 grade sandpaper and the fine dust mixed with the oil will fill in the line and also help expand the wood back to where it was.

If a splice line has appeared before and applying oil has fixed it then maybe you should think about laquering the butt to prevent any further drying out and contracting of the wood; it could be that the maker didn't treat the timber by removing surface oil and dampening with water before glueing to help the glue penetrate the wood for a better bond, but leaving it out in the sun was pretty daft and you're lucky the shaft didn't warp as well.

If you want a darker shaft then wait ten years and it will happen naturally or artificially age it, I use activated charcoal mixed with finishing oil for that vintage look, works great.

[cyclone crouch]

It seems that the butt is some kind of rosewood that is naturally oily and leaving it out in the sun has dried it out and contracted the wood leaving a small line between the splices, so remove the finish with meths and 0000 grade wire wool rubbing very gently and allow ten minutes to dry, then liberally apply some finishing oil with 400 grade sandpaper and the fine dust mixed with the oil will fill in the line and also help expand the wood back to where it was.

If a splice line has appeared before and applying oil has fixed it then maybe you should think about laquering the butt to prevent any further drying out and contracting of the wood; it could be that the maker didn't treat the timber by removing surface oil and dampening with water before glueing to help the glue penetrate the wood for a better bond, but leaving it out in the sun was pretty daft and you're lucky the shaft didn't warp as well.

If you want a darker shaft then wait ten years and it will happen naturally or artificially age it, I use activated charcoal mixed with finishing oil for that vintage look, works great.

Thanks vmax, when the cue was getting its tan, I'd already cleaned the whole cue including the butt, then it had oil, also got to honest , I applied the oil for 5mins then cleaned the excess off then left it for 30-40 mins max, think I done this 3 times so I didn't just do it once and left it for hours. Point is I don't think it was completely dry for anytime.

In the past I've used Danish oil. I tried a darker Danish oil on a test cue last year but wasn't happy with the finish.

I used linseed oil last year giving it many days between to dry. Just thought this year with the sun/heat as to quicken the drying and darken it as mentioned.

Your charcoal mix sounds great any photos for me to get gel over.
Thanks for all input.

Wonder if factor 50 gives it a nice finish ��

[vmax]

When applying oil you need to soak liberally and then take off the excess with a clean dry cloth after ten minutes then leave to dry for at least six hours before the next coat.

Here are two pictures of ash shafts, right one one aged with the charcoal/tung oil mix and the left one just used pure tung oil.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/vmax4steve/shares/1D5aS9

[bigandyg]

I collect ebony dust and use it and super glue forcing it on then rubbing it all down and refinishing when dry.

[Mellow Yellow]

When applying oil you need to soak liberally and then take off the excess with a clean dry cloth after ten minutes then leave to dry for at least six hours before the next coat.

Here are two pictures of ash shafts, right one one aged with the charcoal/tung oil mix and the left one just used pure tung oil.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/vmax4steve/shares/1D5aS9

thats just grain filler?

linseed oil will darken the shaft the most.

[vmax]

thats just grain filler?

linseed oil will darken the shaft the most.

If you apply a sanding sealer before applying any grain filler/charcoal/oil mix then you protect the shaft from ingesting most of the colour which will only seep into the softer grain. If you don't apply a sanding sealer then the wood will darken a lot more because the colour of whatever you choose as a grain filler will mix into the oil and act as a stain. You can actually stain the bare ash shaft black with a wood dye, apply a sanding sealer then apply a white grain filler for a photo negative effect.
There's more to finishing wood than just oil, wax or laquer, but that's all a cue really needs.