Just buy a new cue ………..simples !
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Cue shortening advice
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Originally Posted by jrc750 View PostTaking length off by shortening the butt surely is a very expensive way of doing it?
ie taking butt joint out, trying to save badge, then shortening and reshaping the butt before reinstating the badge and butt joint, bet that is very labour intensive compared to lopping some off the shaft, fitting a new ferrule then a quick re taper before some oiling up???For that one you've always wanted...
https://www.facebook.com/ninjacues/
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Originally Posted by neil taperell View PostJust buy a new cue ………..simples !For that one you've always wanted...
https://www.facebook.com/ninjacues/
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Originally Posted by Ninja.cues View PostYes but not many cues are m that short and you still have the same problem of getting it cut off not..
The cue could be 60"
or it could be 56"Up the TSF! :snooker:
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Originally Posted by DeanH View PostI have reread the thread and can not see any length mentioned for the cue in question.
The cue could be 60"
or it could be 56"
I would assume that is around 57" but could be wrong.
Hope kungfuman let's is know..For that one you've always wanted...
https://www.facebook.com/ninjacues/
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Cue length currently measures 57.5". I'm looking to get it shortened by 2".
anyone know roughly how much I should be paying to get this done? Just so I can base it on getting a new cue altogether which I assume will be custom made and thus be quite expensive?
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Originally Posted by kungfuman View PostCue length currently measures 57.5". I'm looking to get it shortened by 2".
anyone know roughly how much I should be paying to get this done? Just so I can base it on getting a new cue altogether which I assume will be custom made and thus be quite expensive?For that one you've always wanted...
https://www.facebook.com/ninjacues/
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Originally Posted by Ninja.cues View PostYou can cut it at the but end but will change the butt size and can change the balance, more than taking it off the front.
So taking it off the front can be more straight forward..
So it can be a little of 6 of 1 and half dozen of the other.
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I recently altered a cue for forum member Mathias, should have been a straight forward job of cutting an inch off the end of the shaft for a bigger ferrule size up from 9mm to 10mm and adding an inch the other end of the shaft, but it turned out to be a minefield as the cue had been poorly made.
The cue was a 3/4 that didn't join straight, had a crack in the shaft where the joint fitted as the female part of the joint was inserted in the shaft rather than the butt (female part needs a 13mm hole rather than a 10mm), a mini butt/extension joint that wasn't fitted straight, all these things had to be rectified and it cost a whole lot more than it should have done.
So I cut an inch and a half off the tip end of the shaft and two inches off the other end to get rid of the crack which extended into the ash beyond the small ebony splices. I used the cues ash mini butt to lengthen the shaft, drilled and dowelled, and spliced on some more ebony to create a shaft of the right length, re-tapered it and fitted a 10mm brass ferrule.
Then I removed the male part of the joint from the butt, plugged the hole with a hardwood dowel and drilled new holes in both the butt and the shaft in order to fit a new vacuum joint.
Then I removed the mini butt/extension joint, cleaned the hole and plugged that with a hardwood dowell, drilled a straight hole to re- fit the same joint. Made a new mini butt from some ekki ironwood, applied glue to all the joints and fitted them and left the cue tightened up straight in the lathe for the glue to set and keep everything in a straight line.
Next day removed the cue from the lathe, all was straight, removed excess glue and refinished the cue with activated charcoal infused danish oil for the shaft and french polish for the butt.
I think Mathias was pleased as he paid me more than I asked, but a lot more work than was envisioned.
These things can surface when a cue is sent for alteration so don't assume it's going to be easy. It's simple enough just to hold it two inches from the end, add a piece of electrical tape where your first finger goes as a guide for starters.
Now if you're tall and your cue is too short then buy a longer one, don't get a short cue lengthened as the balance will alter and it could be that you won't like it, it could be that you will, but why spend all that money on chance.Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair
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Vmax
Last cue I lengthened, i took the weight out and re weighted it back to were it should be but did have to add about 8" back on after repairing the top.
It had been put over a table and was a custom from Peradon that was only 4 months old..For that one you've always wanted...
https://www.facebook.com/ninjacues/
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Originally Posted by vmax View PostI recently altered a cue for forum member Mathias, should have been a straight forward job of cutting an inch off the end of the shaft for a bigger ferrule size up from 9mm to 10mm and adding an inch the other end of the shaft, but it turned out to be a minefield as the cue had been poorly made.
The cue was a 3/4 that didn't join straight, had a crack in the shaft where the joint fitted as the female part of the joint was inserted in the shaft rather than the butt (female part needs a 13mm hole rather than a 10mm), a mini butt/extension joint that wasn't fitted straight, all these things had to be rectified and it cost a whole lot more than it should have done.
So I cut an inch and a half off the tip end of the shaft and two inches off the other end to get rid of the crack which extended into the ash beyond the small ebony splices. I used the cues ash mini butt to lengthen the shaft, drilled and dowelled, and spliced on some more ebony to create a shaft of the right length, re-tapered it and fitted a 10mm brass ferrule.
Then I removed the male part of the joint from the butt, plugged the hole with a hardwood dowel and drilled new holes in both the butt and the shaft in order to fit a new vacuum joint.
Then I removed the mini butt/extension joint, cleaned the hole and plugged that with a hardwood dowell, drilled a straight hole to re- fit the same joint. Made a new mini butt from some ekki ironwood, applied glue to all the joints and fitted them and left the cue tightened up straight in the lathe for the glue to set and keep everything in a straight line.
Next day removed the cue from the lathe, all was straight, removed excess glue and refinished the cue with activated charcoal infused danish oil for the shaft and french polish for the butt.
I think Mathias was pleased as he paid me more than I asked, but a lot more work than was envisioned.
These things can surface when a cue is sent for alteration so don't assume it's going to be easy. It's simple enough just to hold it two inches from the end, add a piece of electrical tape where your first finger goes as a guide for starters.
Now if you're tall and your cue is too short then buy a longer one, don't get a short cue lengthened as the balance will alter and it could be that you won't like it, it could be that you will, but why spend all that money on chance.
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