Linseed Oil

[snooker_wiz]

There is nothing wrong with boiled, the raw linseed oil will take longer to dry.

[ADR147]

the boiled contains driers and its not good for the cue.

[snooker_wiz]

The cuemaker in which i bought my cue off, told me he would prefer me to use the boiled linseed oil rather than the raw linseed oil.

What harm does it do to the cue if i am to use boiled ?

thanks

[ADR147]

change cue makers.

[snooligan]

I have a bottle of "clarified" linseed oil (the one used to dilute paints). Does this one contain driers as well or is it ok to treat cues with?

Thanks

[hotmog]

I use Danish Oil, which contains polymerised linseed oil and tung oil. As far as I understand it, it's basically the same stuff as purpose-sold cue oil, but costs less than half the price and is available at most DIY or hardware stores.

[MikeWooldridge]

There is nothing wrong with boiled, the raw linseed oil will take longer to dry.

correct

the boiled contains driers and its not good for the cue.

incorrect. can't see what makes you think it's gonna harm the cue....

The cuemaker in which i bought my cue off, told me he would prefer me to use the boiled linseed oil rather than the raw linseed oil.

What harm does it do to the cue if i am to use boiled ?

none

I use Danish Oil, which contains polymerised linseed oil and tung oil. As far as I understand it, it's basically the same stuff as purpose-sold cue oil

dunno if that's true but it's nothing like my stuff
http://www.handmadecues.com/extras/30-cueoil.htm

nothing wrong with danish, or tung, or any other oil really. if you use it and like it then it'll be fine. but i know what i like....

change cue makers.

no need for that. some may believe raw is better than boiled but it's just personal preference

[ADR147]

I hate to argue but....

basically boiled linseed oil is not as the name hints boiled at all, in days gone by the flax oil was boiled to make it polymerase more quickly ergo to dry more quickly these days though it is a chemical mixture which contains petroleum based solvents and metallic driers so it dries faster but does not soak through the wood as well or provide as stable or tough a finish.

raw linseed oil does not contain any artificial products - raw linseed oil will build up a protective coating on the cue that will help to resist scratches and dents, it is the longer time it takes to dry that gives it the properties we desire. this is not a new knowledge at all, sea faring folks, cricket bat makers, woodworkers and cabinet makers have known this for ever.

for the science side of this there is a fasinating book called Bob Flexner's Understanding Wood Finishing which is very interesting on the technical side of things if a bit obvious on the actual finishes!

[MikeWooldridge]

quite true, boiled is misleading.

but the end result is the same. the finish will build up with either. just quicker with boiled.

and i like arguing. it won't harm the cue...

[Qubit]

Ive tried a few different things in recent months in the search for something to use. I didnt much like boiled linseed and although it dried quickly it seemed to remain a bit sticky. However maybe i didnt give it fair chance.

[ADR147]

orange oil is good.

[Qubit]

orange oil is good.

Same stuff as used in Aromatherapy?

[ADR147]

can't say i know anything about aromatherapy, but it works well on cues especially if you want to antique them. i have bought it in the past from here www.ockenden-timber.co.uk

[Qubit]

Me neither! Cheers for the info, will try it out.

[MikeWooldridge]

Ive tried a few different things in recent months in the search for something to use. I didnt much like boiled linseed and although it dried quickly it seemed to remain a bit sticky. However maybe i didnt give it fair chance.

with all oils, wipe off the excess completely. then leave overnight, preferably.

give it a good buff up next day. it won't be sticky if you do this.