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  • #76
    this one's for keith:

    i think if you have problems with a shaft that is not rigid enough, before you propose using it, i recommend a 'pre-stroke' routine consisting of oil and mood music....

    but on a serious note, here's a simple guide to keeping a cue feeling super smooth and in tip top condition:

    http://www.handmadecues.com/info/20-cuecare.htm

    merry xmas and happy new year folks...
    The Cuefather.

    info@handmadecues.com

    Comment


    • #77
      Hi Mike - I knew you wouldn't be able to resist some ribald comment or other - you didn't disappoint !! - I'm surprised that ADR hasn't added his comments yet - still I'm sure he will !! - on your serious topic (ie cue cleaning) - it illustrates that there are many views on this subject, all of which suit the individual, but if the reader has tried the others mentioned and not found them to their liking, there are always alternatives which may be the answer for them
      Merry Xmas and Happy New Year - Keith
      www.cuemaker.co.uk

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      • #78
        its been a busy week. i always feel one should polish ones own shaft with what feels the best for them. myself i use a home made mixture of orange oil, raw linseed oil and pure beeswax. takes a fair bit of rubbing but works well in the end, an excellent finish.
        https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

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        • #79
          My question before was regarding after sanding a cue down. It can become very dry and i was looking for some way of getting a good finish on the cue, especially the butt.
          What do you guys use to fill the grain in ash, how do i get a cue to have a very dark grain but keep the wood pale. and what type of sealers is best to use on the cue. all your help is appreciated.
          If i can help in any way with some coaching questions i would be glad to help. just post them on the coaching post.
          "Don't think, feel"

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          • #80
            Hi Doc
            I think that Trevs, Mike, Adr and myself have tried above to give our own varying ways of feeding the cue and maintaining a shine, and trial and error, using any one or all of these methods may be the only way you're going to find something satisfactory for yourself. With regard to the dark, almost black grain on an almost white background, I've seen a number of cues like this, I think Peradons' do something like that as do the Chinese on their UK imported cues. Unfortunately I can't help you in this regard as I've never tried to achieve this look. I've always tended to finish my cues naturally, for optimum playability, and if a customer has asked for a cue to be made darker, for one reason or other, I've tended to use an antique oak spirit based stain, as the grain in oak closely resembles that of ash and a spirit stain also acts as a sealant that can be buffed up without becoming sticky; but this of course darkens the entire cue rather than just the grain. There are grain enhancing products on the market that may suit your requirements, but having never used them, cannot advise on their end result; perhaps the other cuemakers who have kindly given their views so far may be able to assist you further. I hope something of what I've said helps, sorry I can't be of more help
            Keith
            www.cuemaker.co.uk

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            • #81
              grain fillers

              Years ago cabinet makers had to make their own grain fillers.Then(as now I expect)they kept a veil of secrecy over their techniques.
              One of the common ways was to use plaster of paris.This is an extremely fine powder that will adhere to the very finest of cracks,and,sets rock hard.
              The powder can be coloured to virtually any shade using water based pigments or powders.Old craftsmen used to create their own colours using things like powdered walnut shells,iron filings etc.
              Turners also used this medium and were able to force the moist filler into the grain at speed and leave a mirror finish.
              The problem with snooker cues is that they flex a bit more than ,say,a chess piece,I would worry that a piece may come loose.The other thing is if you get your cue too smooth it starts to become sticky.I have always found those sticks with pronounced grain to be less prone to 'sweaty hand syndrome'.

              Happy New Year to everyone,Tony.

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              • #82
                Thanks very much for your input guys it is very much appreciated.
                "Don't think, feel"

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                • #83
                  Hi Tony - you're right about the grain fillers and plaster of paris, over the years I've used various things from pearl glue to blue gum resin mixed with all sorts of strange things, even epoxy resin and superglue. But in my case it has generally been for things like Rosewood varieties that have a deep and relatively open grain and needed to dry clear to preserve the look of the grain for polishing later or for the repair of a nick or dent in a repair job. Of course in the cabinet making and engraving businesses there are also various soft and hard filler waxes, paraffin oil, turpentine and methylated spirit polishes that are used on furniture but aren't necessarily suitable for snooker cues. Some of the good methods of applying waxes to cues in their bare sanded state is to apply the wax using 0000 guage wire wool to help to work the polishes into the grain before buffing to a shine; but once again finding something that doesn't become sticky after continuous contact with the hands is a problem. I know that many cuemakers will throw up their hands in horror at what I'm about to say but, in some cases where we've experimented with various hard bar lacquers in the sprayshop, the end result has been good, if left long enough to cure and dry thoroughly. But ultimately most players want their cues as quickly as possible after having ordered and paid for them (which is only to be expected) and to feel the wood of the shaft going through their bridge, so time can be a problem, and you can get stuck between a rock and a hard place if you tell a customer that they can't have their cue because you're waiting a couple of weeks for the lacquer to cure. Ebony with it's tight grain doesn't need that sort of sealant neither should it need any filler, and for those who get sweaty hands, an ebony butt can feel very wet indeed after a few frames, even more so when under pressure!
                  In the end we come full circle with this question - some say use a damp cloth, others will vehemently disagree, but it suits some; and if you turned to Jimmy White and said 'don't use a damp cloth on your cue', amongst other things, he would tell you it hasn't done him any harm over an illustrious career. In the end, as I said earlier it's trial and error until you find what suits you and if you find that a cuemaker produces a finish you like on a cue, look after him and he'll look after your cue.
                  Keith
                  www.cuemaker.co.uk

                  Comment


                  • #84
                    New shipment of American Ash

                    Hi to the other cuemakers and other interested parties - I've just uploaded a new website at www.cuemaker.co.uk and if you're interested I've just received a shipment of aaa+ grade ash from America, which I'm getting through pretty quick. If any of you are interested in combining with me for the next shipment (say half a container load) let me know. The price and quality of the selected ash is superb

                    keith
                    www.cuemaker.co.uk

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                    • #85
                      Hi Keith,

                      Is there any chance of you being able to film (professionally would be good) the cue making workshop that you said that you are doing in the Summer? (I think that is what you said in this thread), as i'd really like to see a cue being made by an expert, if it is possible to film it?, can you post it on the forum?

                      bongo

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                      • #86
                        Hi Bongo - yes filming will take place this year by both the BBC and a professional film maker that will show the whole cue making process from start to finish - including tips regarding glues to use and machinery that is essential to produce consistantly high quality cues, but won't cost an arm and a leg to fund, and I will put it on the forum for you all.

                        To those of you who may have read the earlier threads regarding ebony from Sri Lanka, India and other areas. I have just ordered a consignment of Ebony originating from Gabon, West Africa. The shippers confirm that this is consistantly black throughout and the only thing blacker would be plastic. I'll advise you all further when the shipment arrives whether their claims are as good as they say. Hopefully this may become a source for the quality ebony that has sadly been lacking over the last few years.
                        Keith
                        www.cuemaker.co.uk

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                        • #87
                          cue making help

                          Nice one Keith

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                          • #88
                            i know a lot of people who would be interested in some ebony if its the quality you think.
                            https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

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                            • #89
                              Hi Adr

                              I expect the ebony in within the next week or so - upon arrival I'll post a thread and let you know what it's like and if it is as black as they claim I'll probably order a further 100 pieces 11/2"x 11/2" x 18" and if you want some let me know but the price will be in the region of £20 per piece, ex my works
                              Keith
                              www.cuemaker.co.uk

                              Comment


                              • #90
                                Originally Posted by keith auld View Post
                                Hi Adr

                                I expect the ebony in within the next week or so - upon arrival I'll post a thread and let you know what it's like and if it is as black as they claim I'll probably order a further 100 pieces 11/2"x 11/2" x 18" and if you want some let me know but the price will be in the region of £20 per piece, ex my works
                                Keith
                                I'm assuming the above price is for those who are wanting single pieces yes?

                                How many have you got on order which you can 'definitely' have access to?

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