Position Of 3/4 Joints

[Renegade_56]

Thanks for your input. When you mentioned problem on the molecular level were you referring to corrision?
What do you think about the claim that transmittion of vibration is 14 times better with titanium than brass?
Does Titanium process a special quality for this to be so?
Is it perhaps because Titanium is very light, so it can vibrate a bit more perhaps? I cannot quite figure this one out...
How light is Titanium...is it lighter than brass?
Thank you.

Yes, I was speaking of the molecular interaction between the two metals, and must say that I have no idea what it would be as I have never seen Ti and Brass mated.
I know that Ti is very light, very corrosion resistant, very strong, very stable in high temperature applications, but I dont know exactly what the statement is claiming,,,,14 times better at stopping the vibration, or transmitting it??
Yes, the Ti is noticably lighter than brass, maybe as much as 1/3 the weight of brass or steel. It's like very strong, stable stainless, with the weight of aluminum, (just as a reference).
I have seen screw threads mated together with dissimilar metals that, after being torqued a bit, they could not be seperated without some degree of destruction of the softer/weaker part.

Renegade

[poolqjunkie]

Thank you.
That is actually my next question, do you think the joint might be locked up since one part is so much harder than the other?
I just cannot figure out how to avoid the brass from being worn off by the Titanium as it is so much harer. Also, if only half of Ti is used at the joint, does that kind of take away the benefit of Ti as a joint is only as strong as its weakest link?
I would really like to see this joint.

[Renegade_56]

Thank you.
I just cannot figure out how to avoid the brass from being worn off by the Titanium as it is so much harer. Also, if only half of Ti is used at the joint, does that kind of take away the benefit of Ti as a joint is only as strong as its weakest link?

My concerns exactly!!!

Another concern is cost. Ti is a very expensive material, and due to its toughness, is very expensive to machine, and takes alot longer to machine accurately, which is more tecnical labor costs.
For perspective, a bar of 1212 steel which is a common every day grade of steel used in all types of common tools and hardware, is used as a baseline for machinabilty in the machining industry and has a machinability rating of 100. Which means that it is relatively easy to machine with acceptable levels of cutting tool wear/machining time/ and acceptable machined tolerances and surface finishes.
Titanium, referenced on this same scale sports a machinability rating of 22. Lower is more time, less tool life, longer machining times,,,,,,,,you get the idea!!!!!!!!!!

Renegade

[jim evans]

3/4 joints

read all the talk about 3/4 joints i would like to know were to buy them from besides ebay any ideas lads

[poolqjunkie]

read all the talk about 3/4 joints i would like to know were to buy them from besides ebay any ideas lads

You can buy them from Mastercraft or Craftsman I think, Mike wooldridge also would sell you his joint, or licence it out to you or something like that...or you can try to machine your own.

[cueinhand]

Thank you.
That is actually my next question, do you think the joint might be locked up since one part is so much harder than the other?
I just cannot figure out how to avoid the brass from being worn off by the Titanium as it is so much harer. Also, if only half of Ti is used at the joint, does that kind of take away the benefit of Ti as a joint is only as strong as its weakest link?
I would really like to see this joint.

Interesting post !!
PJ
pls see
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...=20365&page=49

[poolqjunkie]

Interesting post !!
PJ
pls see
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...=20365&page=49

Thanx, nice cue. I like the fact that he is not putting too many threads on the pin--the front (threadless) is designed for alignment and the back (threaded part) for holding the two parts together by friction.

I am just not too sure when the insert is brass--when you insert the titanium rod into the brass female is it perhaps possible to wear the brass off over time, making the brass female bigger and bigger.

Also, will the titanium threads cut the brass femals deeper and deeper, causing bigger gaps and a looser fit over time?

I would also worried about the joint being locked dead accidentally.

But I am sure Mr. Tsang has thought about all these and have figured out how to solve these problems or else he wont be offering this joint to his customers. I am probably just worrying too much over nothing.

I am very curious--is Mr. Tsang trying to get a softer hit with the brass insert rather than titanium?

Have you tried this joint, how does it feel?

Is it harder/louder than a brass/brass joint? Does the titanium/titanium joint hit harder than the titanium/brass joint?

Thanks for the picture. Learn something new every day.

[cueinhand]

PJ
Don't be worry the struture of brass/titanium joint, some customers using this kind of joint over 10 yrs.
Mr.Tsang very keen on study, I guess, he using over half day for studying everyday . such as trying to make the joint/shaft/hit feel/etc... perfect in different way.
Now, he is developing a new shaft combine ash with maple!!:

[cueinhand]

PJ
This is the shaft combine ASH with MAPLE

[Steve748]

The joint on my MW cue is near invisible when tightened up and looks like a 1 piece

[Renegade_56]

Maybe this Mr.Tsang could post here and enlighten us on some of his innovations.

Renegade

[888]

I have just received my latest cue from Trevor White and the joint is at 17in which I asked for on purpose so that the cue would fit inside my old specially made Cheddar Classics case.

The joint is at 17in and the (maple shafted) cue only weighs 17.25 oz which is what I asked for and nicely balanced at about 17.25 in so I wondered what influenced cuemakers to position their 3/4 joined cue joints?

I have seen joins at 12in, 14in, 16in, 17in and even higher. Maybe Trevor White or Mike Wooldridge can answer this question.

Is is cost (higher the join, the more expensive ebony etc)? Balance? Weight? Looks? Just be interested to know from a cue makers perspective?

My own choice is for a join to be as high as possible so that the case can be as small as possible!!

Oldgit

So far i'm prefer above 17'' butt joint with plain solid ebony, classic looks, which is 1/3 cue, jimmy white specs.

[888]

Another question, is it true that full piece cue need to take care more than jointed cue, i heard almost people saying that full piece cue are easily faster get warp than jointed cue due to the length, if you doe'snt extra take care of it