Making your cue smoother

[poolqjunkie]

Sharpie i believe is a marker pen. More popular in the states

Thank you. Yes, I meant to say a black marker.

The super glue finish is quite easy to do, but takes a bit of time, as it requires some sanding. If you sand it through, you need to do it again. But it is quite cheap to use, and easy to apply once you get a hang of it. I have found that to be a very good way to do some minor touch up especially on a black cue.

[sagar3]

Steve Davis in his book, says use warm water to clean the cue, and dry it with dry cloth. As it avoids the cue from shattering when it falls down.

I tried it couple of times, and had good results. Its smooth and clean.

[bongo]

As it avoids the cue from shattering when it falls down.

I have never thought that it would stop the cue from shattering as it falls down but i'm sure Steve knows best.

[sagar3]

I went through the book again, and here is what i found in it.

"Look after your cue properly. Never lean it up against a wall for any length of time; it could eventually warp. Always store it flat or upright. Never leave it out in a hot place, such as in a car in warm weather; the wood will dry out and become brittle. If this happens and you drop it, it could shatter. A cue will obviously get dirty. I wash mine down every now and again with warm water and then rub it dry. Very occasionally I also rub in a little linseed oil to stop the wood going brittle. "

I misunderstood, but cleaning it with warm water definatly makes the cue clean and smoother.

[spartacus_ck]

Guys, i read from some other forum regarding the use of beeswax on the cue, is it recommended? Am i supposed to rub it on the cue and buff off immediately, or let it sit for hours like with linseed oil?

[keith auld]

Hi Spartacus - if you're going to use linseed oil then use button polish afterwards - it works well with linseed oil and dries quickly and can be buffed and finished - I used to use it a lot in finishing furniture, I no longer use it on cues having obtained far better sealing and finishing products from the US, but for your one off purposes it should be ok

[Watford]

I'm not sure about bees wax!
Linseed oil is supported by everyone I think.
Do you really need the polish Keith?

Take two bottles into the shower or just your cue!
I think me and Wity once gave advice to take your cue in the the bath with you, then dry it out on the radiator. Great stuff

There's an old one about someone boiling poring water from the kettle on their cue. I'd love to see that.

More seriously though.
If sticky I rib it down with a damp cloth then rub staight after with dry and it makes a big difference.

[keith auld]

Hi Watford - you're probably right, but for someone who wants to wax their cue, this is an alternative that is actually recommended in the application of button polish, I think what it does is seal in the linseed oil so that it continues to feed the wood, which for a dry country like Australia might not be a bad idea.
I'm always experimenting, trying to get something better that I gad before, that's probably not a good thig, however as I type, Parcelforce have just turned up with a box containing all the new adhesives and finishing products from the US, I can't wait to open it and see what they've sent me. Hopefully this will be the panacea for all ills !!!!!!!!!!!

[Wity]

cough cough,

"I no longer use it on cues having obtained far better sealing and finishing products from the US, "

somebody forgot me?

[spartacus_ck]

Hi Watford - you're probably right, but for someone who wants to wax their cue, this is an alternative that is actually recommended in the application of button polish, I think what it does is seal in the linseed oil so that it continues to feed the wood, which for a dry country like Australia might not be a bad idea.
I'm always experimenting, trying to get something better that I gad before, that's probably not a good thig, however as I type, Parcelforce have just turned up with a box containing all the new adhesives and finishing products from the US, I can't wait to open it and see what they've sent me. Hopefully this will be the panacea for all ills !!!!!!!!!!!

Any chance of your reveal this "secret weapon" of yours to the public?

[CueAntW147]

All depends what finish is already on the cue i reckon as how best to make it smooth....a slightly damp cloth first then buff with dry cloth perfect for oil finished cues but not brilliant if a cues waxed finish.
I find oil better in general and easier to maintain as if waxed the cue tends to stick in the bridge hand sometimes as eventually dirt grime etc cuts into the wax finish so then it will need lightly taking off and re finishing you tend not to get this with oil. Wax is fine to make the cue butt shine though, although of course its all down to personal preference & whatever feels best for you, that will always be the best finish.

[jawad]

waloo

i am a marrocain in this country the cue tip is very bad and when i saw snooker player in tv i see something unbeleiveble i want to now what kind cue tips the use not all but the most of them
thanks to all you
jawad

[trevs1]

Hi Spartacus - if you're going to use linseed oil then use button polish afterwards - it works well with linseed oil and dries quickly and can be buffed and finished - I used to use it a lot in finishing furniture, I no longer use it on cues having obtained far better sealing and finishing products from the US, but for your one off purposes it should be ok

Re: OIL FINISH.

No need for the button polish, french polish or any other sealing agent over the top of the oil for that matter.

The idea of using oil to finish timber is exactly that, to give it an 'oil finish'.

The way to achieve a 'real' oil finish is to allow the oil to have exposure to the air, as this is what dries (or oxidises to be more accurate) the oil correctly. By the application of ANY surface finish, you are negating the oil which you are applying, so you might as well skip the oil altogether and just slap on the french/button polish and hope for the best.

While we are on this topic.........

French or button polish is not anywhere near durable enough to be using on a cue anyway. It has very limited wear resistance and will be lost in no time on a cue which is subject to friction from hands and rubbing with cloths. So, while it may well look nice when first done, it won't look so clever after a month or two, when it is patchy from wear in certain places.

French polish was used for all sorts of application many years ago, though still predominantly for items which were not in regular contact with abrasion. Even when it was used, to do it properly is an art in itself, and, is only truly effective against some level of wear if given countless coats to provide a serious amount of finish thickness. If this was done on a cue, it would feel as bad, or, arguably worse than a varnished or lacquered cue would feel.

There are ways to get cues feeling beautifully smooth and silky, but as others might have mentioned here, it does depend on the condition of the cue being treated, so not all cues can achieve the same kind of finish for the same amount of effort.

I won't go into what I feel is the way to go about it, as it's is not something which is easily conveyed in messages or phone calls, it has to be witnessed and practised for any degree of skill and knowledge to be aquired.

Having said that, it's no dark art either, so practise will produce results for those with enough time and patience to try.

[keith auld]

Hi Trev - nice to see that you've branched out in the furniture and cabinet making business (after all you did say in one of replies to me following my emailing you a copy of my furniture brochure - that given you time over again you wish you trained as a cabinet maker) - if you still have that furniture brochure I sent you (if not I'll try to upload it onto the forum for you and all others to see), you'll see that all the furniture made at the Romsey workshops has been finished in different ways. The solid oak cabinets, tables and chests of drawers have all been finished with linseed oil and button polish diluted by 50% with methylated spirits. As for the constant handling properties of button polish - it was named because of what it was originally designed for - sealing and finishing wooden buttons used in turnery and this polish was always applied on the lathe whist still in motion and then finished with a burnish. These were used on handles for high quality chests of drawers, table drawers and the like that would have had continual use and regularly come into contact with the hands. The basis of the diluted button polish is to get a better shine and patina as it ages, it does not get 'stickier than varnish or lacquer' furthermore if you look to the pictures of the large round table in the top right of the brochure the top which is burr maple veneer which is finished with lacquer and covered with plate glass and the large turned central pedestal leg and feet is solid turned cherry and finished with oil, button polish and wax, then burnished with sawdust - the large right angled burr maple veneered unit pictured, is also lacquer finished. Basically all the solid wood has been oiled, button polished and burnished and the veneered furniture, lacquered. I don't know who told you about these strange properties of stick button polish, perhaps they used it undiluted, whatever the case I would suggest that they stick to their day job

[trevs1]

Oh dear me, here we are again.

Well anyone wanting to take up your advice is welcome Keith. I wish them all the best.