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  • #16
    never use any sandpaper or wet/damp cloths I have always been told

    I use cue silk oil on my cue every couple of weeks, works for me, but then it may not be for everyone
    Its not how well you play its how good you look playing that counts!

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    • #17
      On a cue that has the desired finish is dent and scratch free then yes there is no need to sand it but on an old lacquerd and knackered thing it does more wonders then them viagra tablets you take archalf

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      • #18
        Originally Posted by trevs1 View Post
        Your point about the trousers has some meaning here Wity.

        You know what you like, and, you know how to get the result you want, so I don't see the issue with doing something yourself if you have a decent enough idea of what you're doing.

        I totally and completely disagree with Keiths view above, that you cannot get an outstanding finish on a cue unless you are a cue professional.

        As many of us well know, there are 'cue professionals' and cue professionals.
        Im actually writing a complete "How to" guide on ways i have learnt on getting cues refurbed if anyone is interested...including how to regrain a cue as i asked you Trev1, But he would not let me know his wizardry!, so found my own ways.

        It would only be a recommendation but will have pics and illustrations if people are interested. It would contain step by step guides from sanding down from start to finish, oiling, waxing, polishing and getting ferrels and joints clean so your pride and joy will be nice and new again.

        And im sorry Keith, I too agree with Trevor. Re-finishing a cue really is not that hard, just takes alot of patience, preparation and knowing when to stop . But saying that some people can some people cant and if you dont have the confidence, leave it to the pros.
        Last edited by totlxtc; 16 July 2008, 01:40 PM.
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        • #19
          Originally Posted by Wity View Post
          Simlar has happened with another cue I bought a couple of weeks ago, a Burroughs and Watts cues ltd Georgian Special. The ash shaft on this one piece handspliced all ebony butt once sanded and oiled has come up great but the ebony... yuk! You know how you get a smokey looking gaboon ebony that usually looks damn nice well this one looked aweful so I applied ebony spirit stain, loads of it actually as it needed it to take. Not happy with the final look I sanded it and stained it again and again and again. Each time I thought it was super smooth only to find once oiled when I look at it in the sunlight it's covered with fine scatches or is it grain? I really dont know I'm just hoping the grain filler i have coming today will be fine enough to fill it in. If it is grain then fair enough my sanding was not at fault but if it is scratches I cocked up by using too coarse a sandpaper originally.
          Oh Wity!!! Dont use grain filler please!!! Get some 000 grade wire wool and work lightly up and down. Then onto 00000 wire wool and get the finish nice and smooth. Then next few days apply some raw linseed oil and leave to dry for 12-18 hours. When done rub off the residue and leave for a week to cure properly. When cured rub a solid beeswax stick into the cue, then rub off (Yes its hard to get off but does the trick!) Do this 2-3 times. Finially 3-5 uses of Colron finishing and sealing wax can be used and i promise that will be like glass. Hope that helps
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          • #20
            Thats more or less what i've done bar using the coloon finishing wax you mention, Do you think that'll do it?

            Them micro papers are far far finer than 0000 wire wool which if I remember right I started with on the b+w cue as it had no lacquer on it The scatches/grain is so very very fine you can only see it in bright sunlight where it sorta shines silvery a bit like a bloke going grey. It's hard to describe and I doubt a photo will show it though i'll try to take a pic of it. It's lovely and smooth and you cant feel them.

            I'll try the filler route and if it dont work maybe a plaster of paris mix if i can get that finer failing that i was thinking bugger it go back to step one and use a load of new sandpapers wire wools emery cloths and micro papers I'll get it eventually (or my dad gots a new tomatoe stick for his greenhouse)

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            • #21
              Just to help, grain filler wont sit well. I tried the same. I had hell with a cue trying to regrain the ash on a old cue and I found the best way was this and works a treat.

              Get some cuprinol heavy duty wood filler (Little green tin) and get some fibre glass resin dye in black. Put a little filler on some foil and add a tiny tiny amount of the dye and mix till the colour is achived. DO THIS QUICK!! The filler dries very quick. Then apply to the areas. I use my fingers, and yes its messy, but fills the gaps well as you can really rub it in well. Then leave to dry. Dont worry it will look a state

              When dry simply wire wool or fine grade sanpaper down lightly and leave overnight. Then you can oil a little or wax and its all good.

              PS: Colron finishing wax can be found at Homebase for £5.99. And try the solid beeswax stick not the paste! It works wonders and may even fill the areas you are worried about. Ill post you my cue finish when i get home
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              • #22
                Cheers mate.

                My camera is better than i thought, heres how it stands at the mo...

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                • #23
                  WHOA!! That is bad, i thought you meant hairline! Never seen ebony do that!

                  That is very very grainy for ebony. In that case you can try the grain filler or the way I stated, but be aware there maybe a slight colour difference between the filler and the wood. Goodluck mate
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                  • #24
                    Well Buroughs and Watts cues ltd are a long ways off from the original company as we know. You ought to have seen it before the stain, it was the ugliest supposedly black butt in the world I would rather feel Tysons. I'm just glad I paid 50 something for it and not the £150 they want for a new one.

                    I'll get it looking nice i'm sure, the shaft is fine and although it's only 55" it'll be sound for pool with it's 9mm tip.

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                    • #25
                      Originally Posted by Wity View Post
                      On a cue that has the desired finish is dent and scratch free then yes there is no need to sand it but on an old lacquerd and knackered thing it does more wonders then them viagra tablets you take archalf
                      Bet it don't
                      Its not how well you play its how good you look playing that counts!

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                      • #26
                        Well after a week of trying grain filler thinned or not I've come to the conclusion it' was a waste of time buying. It's achieved absolutely nothing no matter how it's thinned or how long it's left to harden it simply does not fill the grain in this ebony at all. And it's definately the grain not my sanding as i've resanded it again a couple of times better than i've ever done before.

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                        • #27
                          You want me to send you some dye and try the method i stated?
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                          • #28
                            I'm doubtful that'll work any better to be honest, grain filler is by nature going to be finer than the heavy duty stuff you mentioned and the staining of it 's not an issue the spirit dye i have works great. I think i'll join up at a couple of woodworking forums I've found and see what the guys there recommend and perhaps a email or two to the companies that sell such products.

                            I've had the same but hardly noticable certainly not to this degree happen before with a cheap chinese cue which I sanded purely to find out if it was ebony or some stained or painted ramin or something. Pretty sure it was a macassar ebony that had been stained darker and lacqured. The butt of which now oiled and waxed is less shiney than the splices in the shaft and i'm thinking now if i can find the right sort of lacquer it might do it as the untouched splices in the shaft are not at all sticky like some cues.

                            failing all else theres a powder coating company just a few streets away

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                            • #29
                              Ok bud no problem. Goodluck
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                              • #30
                                Thanks for the offer though totixtc I appecieate it.

                                Come to think of it Trevor pointed a guy in the direction of some stuff as an alternative finish I'll search through his posts and have a looksee.

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