Linseed Oil and Cue.

[LWB]

This is not for any cue. I have this question is because I noticed my mate's cue is a bit different to me that it is a bit glossier than my cue and also he does not have the sticky feel that I have during we both playing a comp in a club which locates quite near coast and thereby fairly humid even inside the air-con venue. I asked him whether he applies linseed oil to his cue to keep it so glossy and smooth. His reply is "special" wood made of his cue doesn't need linseed oil.This is why I would like to know what kind of wood that is and may be I can used for my future's cue.

Sounds like your mate it having you on chief. If his cue is 'glossier' then I'd think his is varnished. Maybe he just doesn't sweat as much as you do?

[Watford]

no such thing as special or magic wood.

My cue is made of magic wood!
That's why everyone calls it my wand!

Maple and Pear are a bit smoother than ash!

Good tip for anyone with a varnished cue:
Cover in petrol
Light a match
Woof comes up lovely

[totlxtc]

Whenever i need to oil/clean up my cue i go through several processes as preparation is everything. Ive used raw and boiled and never really noticed a difference except the drying times and the fact boiled tends to add a little more age to the cue. Which sometimes is never a bad thing.

This is only for cues that have NOT been treated with varnish

1) Using very very fine grade wire wool (0000) i clean the joints and ferrel. On the ferrel try to stick to one direction, otherwise you will get a very fine scratchy effect.

2) Wipe cloth down with ever so slightly damp cloth and immediately wipe dry with a clean towel.

3) Then take the fine wire wool on the shaft and rub in a downwards direction, but not too hard, just enough to smooth. NEVER! go in different directions.

4) Now get a small piece of fine wire wool and add a little linseed oil to it and rub onto the cue. This helps the oil get into the wood.

5) Leave 12 hours

6) With a lint free cloth, buff up the cue. But make one pass first as there maybe bits of wire wool deposited. Then shake the cloth before continuing.

7) Now apply evenly using a rag more linseed oil and leave another 12 hours.

8) With a lint free cloth, buff up the cue.

If the cue is not lovely and shiny by then i go back and repeat till i get the desired look. Hope that helps

[mattyuk]

I took your advice totlxtc, and bought some fine wire wool, bought some boiled linseed oil (they didnt have raw). My cue was bit rough mid-shaft and downwards so I took the wool to it and its superb! So smooth, do I need to seal the wood with the lindseed oil now? Or leave because its smooth?

[totlxtc]

I would say apply 2 to 3 coats just to protect the wood. It really will not harm it as the wood will only take what it needs. But remember nice thin light coats are the best and leave it for 12 hours. Then buff the next day. Repeat till you are happy with the result. You may feel a little drag on the cue when you have finished but this will dissappear after a week or so as the oil cures itself better.....but believe me it will be like silk. Hope that is some help and let me know if you get on ok.

[totlxtc]

I took your advice totlxtc, and bought some fine wire wool, bought some boiled linseed oil (they didnt have raw). My cue was bit rough mid-shaft and downwards so I took the wool to it and its superb! So smooth, do I need to seal the wood with the lindseed oil now? Or leave because its smooth?

Another thing. If you can find beeswax sticks and you have an ebony butt try this...

Rub the stick on the butt, it will look awful, but dont worry. Then buff it really hard. This way i have found it stops unwanted fingerprints and also adds a little grip to the butt. Dont try this on the shaft though as it will create a little drag.

[mattyuk]

Yeah might try the beeswax.

But I must say, the fine wire wool is superb. A few strokes on the shaft and it smooth as ever in seconds. Also the ferrule is like a diamond!

Its drying now...

[147harris]

VARNISH is wank... varnish + sweat = nightmare

[mattyuk]

Yeah its worked ok. But man is it dark!

[totlxtc]

VARNISH is wank... varnish + sweat = nightmare

Cues with varnish are the spawn of the devil!

Matty-UK

Glad it all worked out ok. Should of only given it a light glow. Post a piccy up if you can and lemmi see. Ill show you mine if you show me yours lol

[mattyuk]

Yeah will do tomorrow. I mean its not really really dark, but in comparison to how it was last time, you can tell.

[totlxtc]

Yeah will do tomorrow. I mean its not really really dark, but in comparison to how it was last time, you can tell.

I would describe it gives it an aged look. Would I be right saying this?

But wait till you play....you WILL notice the difference

[mattyuk]

Potted a few balls today and it feels okay yeah better than last time, but feels somehwat different. It feels warm for some reason..

[eha]

VARNISH is wank... varnish + sweat = nightmare

While waiting a new cue from Trevor I made an experimental job with my BCE Heritage series cue. I thought that cue wouldn't get worse if I try to remove varnish. I wiped off the varnish with 80 sandpaper from all over the cue (varnishing was quite a thick). The sanded again with 240, 360 and 600 sandpaper. Finally I treated cue with 00 wool and put beeswax/linseed oil combination to it. 1 st attemp wasn't a success - I was too gentle with sanding - so I repeated whole procedure.

You might not believe me, but the cue feels good now - today I managed to make my first century ever - and with this cue...

It really was worth trying

[totlxtc]

Potted a few balls today and it feels okay yeah better than last time, but feels somehwat different. It feels warm for some reason..

Hmm? No idea what is causing that effect. aybe the oil is still curing. PM me in a week and let me know. Dan