Linseed Oil and Cue.

[cueboyzn]

I find that treating my (ash/ebony) cue with RAW linseed oil is good for repelling (instead of retaining) dampness (e.g. from wiping the cue with a damp cloth during a match etc.) Here in South Africa with our humidity levels and climate things can tend to get sticky especially if in a venue with no air-conditioning. And of course it gives the wood a nice colour, and feeds/protects it as well.

[eaoin11]

Can linseed oil affect the playability of a cue?

A few years go I had a maple cue remodelled by the local cue maker and when I recieved it he said he had treated it with some oil, but the wood was very white and seemed dry to me, if it got wet it absorbed the water which didn't seem healthy. It was however very stiff and responsive, a good piece of wood.

When I later applied linseed oil I used several grades of fine sandpaper and got a very smooth finish (I think maple is the best wood to beat the humid conditions brisbane's summer) but the shaft felt different to play with and I couldn't generate the same amount of screw.

Has anyone had similar experiences?

[Asi]

Can linseed oil affect the playability of a cue?

A few years go I had a maple cue remodelled by the local cue maker and when I recieved it he said he had treated it with some oil, but the wood was very white and seemed dry to me, if it got wet it absorbed the water which didn't seem healthy. It was however very stiff and responsive, a good piece of wood.

When I later applied linseed oil I used several grades of fine sandpaper and got a very smooth finish (I think maple is the best wood to beat the humid conditions brisbane's summer) but the shaft felt different to play with and I couldn't generate the same amount of screw.

Has anyone had similar experiences?

I guess it must be the sandpaper you used, as it's really bad for the shaft!
I Don't think a raw linseed oil can do any harm to the shaft or effect its playability. not at all, I have been told by more than one cue maker to use it once in a while. you can read it on JP website as well:

"...Occasionally, (3-6 months depending on the amount you play) treat the cue with raw linsead oil. Wipe cue down with a damp cloth and dry. (If cue is very dirty, mild detergent can be used) do not use to much water or this can cause the cue to swell. Apply oil onto cue with a cloth or paper towel, leave overnight to soak in, buff cue with a clean cloth until smooth and dry and no residue is visible on clean cloth. Then wipe with damp cloth and dry and buff..."

https://www.parriscues.com/home.html

[eaoin11]

I don't think so, I used very fine grade sandpaper, as I didn't need to remove any varnish etc. Also, the cue maker had retapered the shaft with a lathe (before I was aware of the planing method) which I hear is also not so good for the strength of the shaft, and yet it was very responsive after I received it from him.

I didn't use raw linseed oil though, as recommended on the paris website. I think I used 50% linseed oil and turpentine solution. Don't know if that could make a difference?

[Tenko 127]

Ozmini,

I've used boiled linseed oil for over 30yrs. My Powerglide International was oiled on the last 18 inch or so and the rest was varnished. When it started to get sticky again I sanded it with very fine wet or dry, use the finest grade you can get and rub 2 sheets together to make them finer. Damp the cue with a damp cloth and after it has dried use the fine wet and dry again. Apply boiled linseed oil liberably and leave a couple of hours. Then buff to a polish with a cloth. Before you do this apply some sellotape round the tip to prevent getting oil on it.

If you have a varnished cue sand it down to the bare wood using very fine wet and dry to as far down the shaft as you will be cuing, then do the above.

If you don't know if your cue has varnish or oil on, smell it. You should be able to smell oil but varnish has no smell. Alternatively, if you make a very fine wet and dry as explained above, when you sand varnished wood it will clog the wet and dry. You could also put water on the cue, with varnish it will run off but with oil it should bead like paintwork on a freshly pollished car.

If this doesn't help PM me

[cueboyzn]

I don't think Boiled Linseed oil is the best thing to use, as it can leave the cue sticky. Boiled linseed Oil has other additives to make it dry quickly. Raw Linseed oil has no such additives and gives a less sticky finish and better result, even though it may take slightly longer to cure/dry. Boiled Linseed Oil is also a much darker oil and can make the ash (and especially maple) very dark. Raw Linseed is a much more lighter amber colour.

All in all I would advise staying away from both a) Boiled and b) Purified Linseed Oil. Raw Linseed Oil is the only thing I would ever use on my cue.

[LavaChild]

Can anybody who can tell by looking, solely at a photo, tell me if the eBay seller
*silvestrawberry* varnishes or oils his cues? Most specifically I am interested in whether item number 150323699539 is varished or oiled.

My cue has not yet arrived but I want to buy oil/wax/whatever is needed in preperation for it. I'm hoping I'll be able to get away simply by using a product on eBay (ID 270333826273) as I'm worried any other means I might mess up before I've even used the cue!

Cheers!

[Watford]

A new cue shouldn't need much doing to it.
Shouldn't be varnished certainly not on shaft but you'll know if it is.

The wax would be fine but probably as well just to use the raw linseed oil described in the thread.

[Mr O]

I was recently told by one of the top cuemakers that to finish his cues, after the finest sandpaper he uses cardboard from cereal packets. He said to use the inside of the box to get a really glossy finish. He didn't say which make he used as some of them are a bit cagy with info. I asked what the blend of oils was he used but he wouldn't tell me. I can only imagine it's a blend of Linseed and a few others but each maker probably has his own blend.

[Watford]

Rub on cornflakes got it!

[Mr O]

erm, yes

[Watford]

I suppose it's like a burnishing thing like ADR mentions in the tip guide about the £20 note.