Originally Posted by TexasTrev
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**Post Pictures of your cue!**
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This is a sticky topic.
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A couple of nice ones!
Andy Hunter cue-Made from an 80 year old piece of Scottish highland ash.
The most phenomenally powerful cue i've ever had,it's a real Beast!
Indian rosewood butt with burr top and bottom and tulip sides.
Martin Daly tyrone cue-Absolutely stunning cue.
Never seen better splicework on a cue,its perfection.
Plays superb.
Both cues are possibly for sale,havent decided yet.
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I'm not a fan of steel wool either, I use half a dozen grades of micromesh down to 1200MX. Some folk say that's overkill but each sand deepens the shine, especially that 1200MX final sand. I also use homemade polish, mine is a mix of beeswax, linseed oil, olive oil and a tiny bit of kiwi parade gloss to help highlight grain. I use a shoe polish express shine brush on maple shafts, gives a really slick, non-greasy finish.
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I have always had this problem with cues that's why I try and go for maple cues but as they are hard to find that play well
I have made my own cue wax to solve this and I was quite surprised on how well it works
The stuff I made is from pure carnauba wax and beeswax mixed with a little raw linseed (just to help the two waxes mix) the main reason was to fill the dark ash grain to stop chin hairs being ripped out but this stuff works well as a full cue treatment (I let a little get on the tip sides which help to burnish the tip)
It takes a little to work it in but I wanted as much carnauba wax as possible in the blend and this means normal heat won't effect the wax it has the consistency of soap.
I use a piece of nubuck leather to apply and burnish the whole cue and I'm thinking of making the rest of carnauba wax into cue wax as it worked so well and I won't be making car wax with it which was the main reason for buying the carnauba years ago.
It's easy to make and smells amazing and no volatile substances like turps or thinners.
I never use wire wool as it raises the harder grains out 2500 grit sandpaper is the ideal finish paper.
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Originally Posted by ste bed View PostYou could try messaging andy travis he uses something similar to mastercue its a very thin coat of a wax like substance which as a very
high gloss finish he might be able to help you.
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Originally Posted by lesedwards View PostHow do you apply your concoction? I was thinking on taking super Fine steel wool to the but then spraying it with some high gloss urethane . Right now that looks like what his plan was but he forgot the urethane.....LOL I have tried a high end furniture wax then a very high end car wax and then last night I tried linseed oil but nothing. I like the high gloss because it gives it a nice grip where dull slides around and I tend to gip it tighter. Might solve the 29 mm butt with the proper shine.
high gloss finish he might be able to help you.
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Originally Posted by j6uk View Postiv used cricket bat linseed wax before now and it was okay.. this is before i created my own oil and sealer concoction
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Originally Posted by billabong View PostSnakes alive !!
Just received two Riley EJR signature Snakewood cues ( thanks Pete, Mick ).
One is Snooker spec, the other pool spec. Ideal when I arrive at the club, and haven't made
my mind up what to play . .
[ATTACH=CONFIG]16098[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]16099[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]16100[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]16101[/ATTACH]
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Snakes alive !!
Just received two Riley EJR signature Snakewood cues ( thanks Pete, Mick ).
One is Snooker spec, the other pool spec. Ideal when I arrive at the club, and haven't made
my mind up what to play . .
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Originally Posted by RogiBear View PostI have some, but to be honest i don't like the finish it produces if you go by their instructions. Too glossy and sticky imo.
If you buff it while it is isn't quite dried it produces a satin finish which isn't bad
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iv used cricket bat linseed wax before now and it was okay.. this is before i created my own oil and sealer concoction
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**Post Pictures of your cue!**
Friction Polish of any brand, a soft cloth and elbow grease. I use Rustins and it works a charm but be willing to rub as it has been designed to finish wood to a deep shine on a lathe.
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