**Post Pictures of your cue!**

[gazza147]

Here is my new cue, courtesy of Airin & Richard @ Aurora. These are their pictures of it from Facebook, as I have only had chance for a quick squint as it only arrived this morning. Looks lovely !

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...9985179&type=1

Nice Looking Cue m8 what sort of Price are these Cues from Airin/Richard?

[cally]

Ask airin in private is best don't ya think.....

[ak615]

Here is my cue from Mr Glover, it is a great playing cue in fact.

Here we go.

IMG_9065.jpgIMG_9066.jpgIMG_9067.jpgIMG_9070.jpgIMG_9073.jpg

I am here to thank again Tony's great work.

[grimreaper]

Nice looking Glover cue that is.

[Andy Travis]

Thought i'd try something different, Camphor burr, ebony, bubinga, what do forum members think, appreciate your thoughts.

Andy.

[hotpot]

Really like that Trav , nice contrast .

[Neil Taperell]

Liking that design Andy .

[grimreaper]

Very nice looking cue Andy

[burwat292596]

Looks strikingly different, old habits always see ebony as the top splicings, lovely to see innovation that is pleasant on the eye!

[old school]

Nice design , Andy , keep up the good work , flame maple might be used as an alternative to the burr and still give the same effect, less brittle and easier to work as well.

[EnterTheDragon]

Almost finished, just needs a bit of oil and maybe some kind of badge... looks so weird without one.

59" and 18.3oz. Ash, ebony and bubinga with birch veneers.

[Idesignqs]

What Deroo does is that he puts a peel-off decal (like a sticker or an instant tatoo) on the cue before he sprays some thick varnish over, which is a very common way of marking 9 ball cues. Most lower end cues are marked that way. The higher end ones are usually engraved or signed or both, but some semi-high end US pool cues also use decal. I believe some very cheap snooker house cues are maked that way, too.

I have seen several Deroo's black ebony cues covered with a black dye under thick layer of varnish so I suspect if he puts on a real proper badge the black dye will cover up the badge making things quite messy. Using a decal will save him a lot of time and make things much easier for him. Also since his snooker cues are made like US 9 ball cues may be he just likes to mark them like one?

A decal is much cheaper to buy and can even be printed with a printer at home. If the decal did not go in the middle it can just be peeled off and re-done easily. It costs next to nothing and takes next to no skill to put it on properly.

With a real badge, if your hole is not drilled in the middle or if it was drilled too deep or not flat or even on the bottom, you are in a lot of trouble. You may even have to re-do the front splice if you really mess up.

When he tries to sand his finish on his lathe you can see that the flat is not always evenly sanded so when you look at his cues from the butt joint on they are not always symmetrical. This is because when you try to turn a cue with a flat on a lathe in one direction the flat will not be sanded even on both sides. I dont have this problem because I just sand and polish by hand.

Kevin makes a very nice playing cues. His cues play very solid and responsive on average.

But I just want to point out that my cues are made and constructed completely different--nothing like his and I have no interest nor intention to make anything like that whatsoever.

What I did was that I installed a real badge just like what most real snooker cue makers such as Mike, Robert...do, it is much more time consuming and requires more skill but I believe it looks much better and it is the proper way to mark a snooker cue. I am no interested in taking short cuts.

My logo is my pride and I am not going to represent my work with a piece of peel-off sticker.

When I install the badge I make sure the badge is flush and level with the cue by hand polishing and planning. My round badges are laser cut in Germany and they are very precise and round. I need to use a rubber hammer to hammer the badge slightly to make it go into the hole. Although I put epoxy on the bottom of the hole the fit is so precise no epoxy will come out through any gap aorund the badge because there is no gap. So, if I put too much epoxy they will just all got trapped in the bottom and raise the badge.

Since the fonts are hot stamped on the bottom--not on the top--of the badge, my logo is not printed on the surface but it actually sits underneath the surface, giving it a more 3-D look.

I have included a few pictures here. It is easier to see on a rounded butt cue:

Hey Airin (Richard)
This is the second time I've caught you putting out MISinformation about DeRoo Cues
Black dye and thick varnish are both false and completely manufactured by you.
The flawless high gloss finish is a trade secret and second to none.
Sanding with a lathe is also incorrect.

Kevin DeRoo
www.deroocues.com

[poolqjunkie]

Here is my new cue, courtesy of Airin & Richard @ Aurora. These are their pictures of it from Facebook, as I have only had chance for a quick squint as it only arrived this morning. Looks lovely !

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?s...9985179&type=1

Thank you Jay.
Here is a quick snap of your Aurora cue built with snakewood, flame maple, and ebony. Perhaps I should say it is my version of the connie, so I call it "Connie Tribute.":-)

[willtyson]

Almost finished, just needs a bit of oil and maybe some kind of badge... looks so weird without one.

59" and 18.3oz. Ash, ebony and bubinga with birch veneers.

It's a similar design to Judd Trump's is it not? Correct me if I'm wrong btw (usually am lol) Look nice :snooker:

[EnterTheDragon]

Yeah design is a bit like Judd's only he has some really orange wood for his splices, don't know what wood it is really.

Next shaft has been waiting for splicing a good 2 months now, will be plain ash + macassar. We'll see how it comes out..