**Post Pictures of your cue!**

[Delphiwizard]

Sorry for spamming, wanted to edit the post because images are not showing but i can't edit my own posts?
Second post also not showing images but i can't remove it, weird forum behaviour.

[Delphiwizard]

I had many over time but never been 100% happy with what i had until now.

In fact i have 3 at the moment, been trying stuff out.

I think i started with a bce cue in the eighties, got one from a general shop in London which turned out to be crap in the nineties.
Around '96 i bought a craftsman from my best friend and i've been playing that one since then, but i only attended the club a few times in a year.


But i felt it was time for a change and most of all i wanted a cue that has the SD quick lock joint and extension.

Recently i got the cue from Jimmy's webshop at www.jimmy.com, which is perfectly fine and a very nice cue but it's a bit too light for me and i can't get used to it.
Not a bad cue though, and the service there is great.



And just 10 days ago i was at JP shop , i know it's silly and expensive to travel all the way to London to pick a cue but it was something i wanted to experience and do...Hey you might call it a mid-life crisis thing, something that was on my bucket list.

Only played it a few times yet but i love this one already.

[Delphiwizard]

I had many over time but never been 100% happy with what i had until now.

In fact i have 3 at the moment, been trying stuff out.

I think i started with a bce cue in the eighties, got one from a general shop in London which turned out to be crap in the nineties.
Around '96 i bought a craftsman from my best friend and i've been playing that one since then, but i only attended the club a few times in a year.


But i felt it was time for a change and most of all i wanted a cue that has the SD quick lock joint and extension.

Recently i got the cue from Jimmy's webshop at www.jimmy.com, which is perfectly fine and a very nice cue but it's a bit too light for me and i can't get used to it.
Not a bad cue though, and the service there is great.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/im6KWxbaGC9AZv5X8

And just 10 days ago i was at JP shop , i know it's silly and expensive to travel all the way to London to pick a cue but it was something i wanted to experience and do...Hey you might call it a mid-life crisis thing, something that was on my bucket list.

Only played it a few times yet but i love this one already.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/yBzxastwMTUoyHag8

[presprout]

With regards to the oil folks use - for me personally I have always used the same stuff I do my cricket bats with.. raw linseed oil... works lovely.

I tend to use a mixture of tung oil and linseed, with thinners. Linseed, i have found, tends to give the cue a honeyed yellow - which I like, but it's something to be aware of.

[presprout]

With regards to the oil folks use - for me personally I have always used the same stuff I do my cricket bats with.. raw linseed oil... works lovely.

I tend to use a mixture of tung oil and linseed, with thinners. Linseed, i have found, tends to give the cue a honeyed yellow - which I like, but it's something to be aware of.

[John Flaf]

When done properly it won't feel tacky. Ensure the shaft is clean and smooth beforehand, the key to it not being tacky is removing the excess oil properly after a few mins rather than let it sit for too long.

Applying and removing the excess quickly, with repeated small applications is far better than a single heavy application that's allowed to linger too long before the excess removed.

There's no issues with oiling the whole cue or just the shaft. If the butt has any sort of sealant on it, oiling it won't matter it simply won't penetrate.

Thanks qc, I've stripped the whole cue down using method mentioned above.

[qc2]

When done properly it won't feel tacky. Ensure the shaft is clean and smooth beforehand, the key to it not being tacky is removing the excess oil properly after a few mins rather than let it sit for too long.

Applying and removing the excess quickly, with repeated small applications is far better than a single heavy application that's allowed to linger too long before the excess removed.

There's no issues with oiling the whole cue or just the shaft. If the butt has any sort of sealant on it, oiling it won't matter it simply won't penetrate.

[John Flaf]

I'd use the oil. Otherwise, your cue's going to get oiled, but with hand grease and all the dirt and chalk mixed in with that. You can't clean out hand grease.

AH I had a thought Mark but you may have answered it, I was just going to oil the shaft and leave the splices and but end natural, would this be OK. Only asking because I know how it 'feels' natural don't know if oil would make it 'tacky'.

[John Flaf]

Good point Mark.

[The Artful Dodger]

With regards to the oil folks use - for me personally I have always used the same stuff I do my cricket bats with.. raw linseed oil... works lovely.

[Mark187187]

I bought some 'proffesional cue oil' from ADR but have been reluctant to use it, I know it could warp but i clean it after every use.

I'd use the oil. Otherwise, your cue's going to get oiled, but with hand grease and all the dirt and chalk mixed in with that. You can't clean out hand grease.

[John Flaf]

I'd suggest you do oil it. it's possible with the right oil to maintain the smooth glide

Oil it for sure, as it helps stop thing's like it bending as the wood is sealed.
Just a coat or to with linseed would be fine.

I bought some 'proffesional cue oil' from ADR but have been reluctant to use it, I know it could warp but i clean it after every use.

i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?

Some sound advice been given already Kayen, I was overthinking the whole issue which made me a bit nervous, but i just ended up diving in, but as I said 120 was fine I only used my Index finger Not flat but slightly bent to the shape I was sanding, with very light rubs I did NOT wrap the sandpaper around the cue at any point ( well i did but it was 1500 ) the lacquer will come off White, as soon as you hit natural wood you will see the change stop, then move on taking it slowly after a while your confidence will grow But don't let this make you become heavy handed Take your time, All In it probably took 5 - 5 1/2 hours sand, clean, dry, sand, clean, dry ect you get the pic I did it over 3 days as I wasn't in any rush. It has a completely differnt feel now, Love it, it's worth doing.

HTH
John.

[kayen147]

I use 100 however if you not confident try 200 however it will take longer. also laquer has the tendency to clog the grits on a sandpaper. I usually use a Stanley knife and scrape off most of the laquer, however if you not careful you can get an ugly slice mark on the cue shaft or butt. Finally when you are done removing the laquer you will need grain filling unless its a maple cue.

its an ash shaft. i have a dark grain, i dont mind if it gets clearer

[sanman]

I use 100 however if you not confident try 200 however it will take longer. also laquer has the tendency to clog the grits on a sandpaper. I usually use a Stanley knife and scrape off most of the laquer, however if you not careful you can get an ugly slice mark on the cue shaft or butt. Finally when you are done removing the laquer you will need grain filling unless its a maple cue.

i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?

[cpserrao]

Well bugger, my red baron tip decided to explode after a screw shot miscue. First time i've ever done this to a tip, generally a screw miscue just leaves a little scuff that can be filed off. Cue came with this from new, was only a matter of days old and maybe 4 hours of play.

Looks pretty bad.
Nice photography though. Curious to know if you clicked this using your phone or camera?