Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

**Post Pictures of your cue!**

Collapse
This is a sticky topic.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • The Artful Dodger
    replied
    With regards to the oil folks use - for me personally I have always used the same stuff I do my cricket bats with.. raw linseed oil... works lovely.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark187187
    replied
    Originally Posted by John Flaf View Post
    I bought some 'proffesional cue oil' from ADR but have been reluctant to use it, I know it could warp but i clean it after every use.
    I'd use the oil. Otherwise, your cue's going to get oiled, but with hand grease and all the dirt and chalk mixed in with that. You can't clean out hand grease.

    Leave a comment:


  • John Flaf
    replied
    Originally Posted by qc2 View Post
    I'd suggest you do oil it. it's possible with the right oil to maintain the smooth glide
    Originally Posted by Ninja.cues View Post
    Oil it for sure, as it helps stop thing's like it bending as the wood is sealed.
    Just a coat or to with linseed would be fine.
    I bought some 'proffesional cue oil' from ADR but have been reluctant to use it, I know it could warp but i clean it after every use.

    Originally Posted by kayen147 View Post
    i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?
    Some sound advice been given already Kayen, I was overthinking the whole issue which made me a bit nervous, but i just ended up diving in, but as I said 120 was fine I only used my Index finger Not flat but slightly bent to the shape I was sanding, with very light rubs I did NOT wrap the sandpaper around the cue at any point ( well i did but it was 1500 ) the lacquer will come off White, as soon as you hit natural wood you will see the change stop, then move on taking it slowly after a while your confidence will grow But don't let this make you become heavy handed Take your time, All In it probably took 5 - 5 1/2 hours sand, clean, dry, sand, clean, dry ect you get the pic I did it over 3 days as I wasn't in any rush. It has a completely differnt feel now, Love it, it's worth doing.

    HTH
    John.

    Leave a comment:


  • kayen147
    replied
    Originally Posted by sanman View Post
    I use 100 however if you not confident try 200 however it will take longer. also laquer has the tendency to clog the grits on a sandpaper. I usually use a Stanley knife and scrape off most of the laquer, however if you not careful you can get an ugly slice mark on the cue shaft or butt. Finally when you are done removing the laquer you will need grain filling unless its a maple cue.
    its an ash shaft. i have a dark grain, i dont mind if it gets clearer

    Leave a comment:


  • sanman
    replied
    I use 100 however if you not confident try 200 however it will take longer. also laquer has the tendency to clog the grits on a sandpaper. I usually use a Stanley knife and scrape off most of the laquer, however if you not careful you can get an ugly slice mark on the cue shaft or butt. Finally when you are done removing the laquer you will need grain filling unless its a maple cue.
    Originally Posted by kayen147 View Post
    i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?

    Leave a comment:


  • cpserrao
    replied
    Originally Posted by narl View Post


    Well bugger, my red baron tip decided to explode after a screw shot miscue. First time i've ever done this to a tip, generally a screw miscue just leaves a little scuff that can be filed off. Cue came with this from new, was only a matter of days old and maybe 4 hours of play.
    Looks pretty bad.
    Nice photography though. Curious to know if you clicked this using your phone or camera?

    Leave a comment:


  • kayen147
    replied
    Originally Posted by Cue crafty View Post
    A good cue is fairly expensive, sandpaper is cheap. eBay sellers do great packages on several grit sandpapers, so make a small outlay for this and start low and slow,then build up as your confidence with which grade is best progressively as you work through the task.
    i will do that, thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • Cue crafty
    replied
    Originally Posted by kayen147 View Post
    i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?
    A good cue is fairly expensive, sandpaper is cheap. eBay sellers do great packages on several grit sandpapers, so make a small outlay for this and start low and slow,then build up as your confidence with which grade is best progressively as you work through the task.

    Leave a comment:


  • Mark187187
    replied
    Originally Posted by kayen147 View Post
    i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?
    320 should be rough enough to get started if your anxious about taking too much off too quickly, it will just take longer. Switch to finer grain paper as soon as the shine is off, and gradually move down to 1200 or finer. Some people finish off with 0000 wire wool, but I don't think it's necessary if you use the really fine grit paper.

    Leave a comment:


  • kayen147
    replied
    Originally Posted by John Flaf View Post
    I tried white spirit, varnish remover and acetone Kayen, none of them touched the lacquer, so had to resort to elbow grease, I took it gently, very gently as I didn't want to screw up.
    i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?

    Leave a comment:


  • narl
    replied
    Originally Posted by Ninja.cues View Post
    You might be able to sand that out...
    Lol, already ripped off, i was amazed at losing almost a quarter of a tip on a simple miscue, not like it was played with any real power behind it either, white bounced up couple of inches and that was the result.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ninja.cues
    replied
    Originally Posted by narl View Post


    Well bugger, my red baron tip decided to explode after a screw shot miscue. First time i've ever done this to a tip, generally a screw miscue just leaves a little scuff that can be filed off. Cue came with this from new, was only a matter of days old and maybe 4 hours of play.
    You might be able to sand that out...

    Leave a comment:


  • narl
    replied


    Well bugger, my red baron tip decided to explode after a screw shot miscue. First time i've ever done this to a tip, generally a screw miscue just leaves a little scuff that can be filed off. Cue came with this from new, was only a matter of days old and maybe 4 hours of play.
    Last edited by narl; 2 May 2019, 08:55 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ninja.cues
    replied
    Originally Posted by John Flaf View Post
    My new cue courtesy of Mr ADR. First time I used it I found the lacquer just a bit tacky so I've taken it back to natural using 120 to remove lacquer then 600, then 1500 and finished off with 0000 wire wool.

    I had planned to oil it but think i will leave it as is I like the look and feel of it, it just glides in my cue arm now no problem unfurling my fingers either.


    Oil it for sure, as it helps stop thing's like it bending as the wood is sealed.
    Just a coat or to with linseed would be fine.

    Leave a comment:


  • qc2
    replied
    Originally Posted by John Flaf View Post
    My new cue courtesy of Mr ADR. First time I used it I found the lacquer just a bit tacky so I've taken it back to natural using 120 to remove lacquer then 600, then 1500 and finished off with 0000 wire wool.

    I had planned to oil it but think i will leave it as is I like the look and feel of it, it just glides in my cue arm now no problem unfurling my fingers either.


    I'd suggest you do oil it. it's possible with the right oil to maintain the smooth glide

    Leave a comment:

Working...
X