**Post Pictures of your cue!**

[Ninja.cues]

Well bugger, my red baron tip decided to explode after a screw shot miscue. First time i've ever done this to a tip, generally a screw miscue just leaves a little scuff that can be filed off. Cue came with this from new, was only a matter of days old and maybe 4 hours of play.

You might be able to sand that out...

[narl]

You might be able to sand that out...

Lol, already ripped off, i was amazed at losing almost a quarter of a tip on a simple miscue, not like it was played with any real power behind it either, white bounced up couple of inches and that was the result.

[kayen147]

I tried white spirit, varnish remover and acetone Kayen, none of them touched the lacquer, so had to resort to elbow grease, I took it gently, very gently as I didn't want to screw up.

i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?

[Mark187187]

i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?

320 should be rough enough to get started if your anxious about taking too much off too quickly, it will just take longer. Switch to finer grain paper as soon as the shine is off, and gradually move down to 1200 or finer. Some people finish off with 0000 wire wool, but I don't think it's necessary if you use the really fine grit paper.

[Cue crafty]

i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?

A good cue is fairly expensive, sandpaper is cheap. eBay sellers do great packages on several grit sandpapers, so make a small outlay for this and start low and slow,then build up as your confidence with which grade is best progressively as you work through the task.

[kayen147]

A good cue is fairly expensive, sandpaper is cheap. eBay sellers do great packages on several grit sandpapers, so make a small outlay for this and start low and slow,then build up as your confidence with which grade is best progressively as you work through the task.

i will do that, thanks

[cpserrao]

Well bugger, my red baron tip decided to explode after a screw shot miscue. First time i've ever done this to a tip, generally a screw miscue just leaves a little scuff that can be filed off. Cue came with this from new, was only a matter of days old and maybe 4 hours of play.

Looks pretty bad.
Nice photography though. Curious to know if you clicked this using your phone or camera?

[sanman]

I use 100 however if you not confident try 200 however it will take longer. also laquer has the tendency to clog the grits on a sandpaper. I usually use a Stanley knife and scrape off most of the laquer, however if you not careful you can get an ugly slice mark on the cue shaft or butt. Finally when you are done removing the laquer you will need grain filling unless its a maple cue.

i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?

[kayen147]

I use 100 however if you not confident try 200 however it will take longer. also laquer has the tendency to clog the grits on a sandpaper. I usually use a Stanley knife and scrape off most of the laquer, however if you not careful you can get an ugly slice mark on the cue shaft or butt. Finally when you are done removing the laquer you will need grain filling unless its a maple cue.

its an ash shaft. i have a dark grain, i dont mind if it gets clearer

[John Flaf]

I'd suggest you do oil it. it's possible with the right oil to maintain the smooth glide

Oil it for sure, as it helps stop thing's like it bending as the wood is sealed.
Just a coat or to with linseed would be fine.

I bought some 'proffesional cue oil' from ADR but have been reluctant to use it, I know it could warp but i clean it after every use.

i feel like 120 is too much for the cue, i have 180 and im too scared to use it to remove the lacquer, any advice ?

Some sound advice been given already Kayen, I was overthinking the whole issue which made me a bit nervous, but i just ended up diving in, but as I said 120 was fine I only used my Index finger Not flat but slightly bent to the shape I was sanding, with very light rubs I did NOT wrap the sandpaper around the cue at any point ( well i did but it was 1500 ) the lacquer will come off White, as soon as you hit natural wood you will see the change stop, then move on taking it slowly after a while your confidence will grow But don't let this make you become heavy handed Take your time, All In it probably took 5 - 5 1/2 hours sand, clean, dry, sand, clean, dry ect you get the pic I did it over 3 days as I wasn't in any rush. It has a completely differnt feel now, Love it, it's worth doing.

HTH
John.

[Mark187187]

I bought some 'proffesional cue oil' from ADR but have been reluctant to use it, I know it could warp but i clean it after every use.

I'd use the oil. Otherwise, your cue's going to get oiled, but with hand grease and all the dirt and chalk mixed in with that. You can't clean out hand grease.

[The Artful Dodger]

With regards to the oil folks use - for me personally I have always used the same stuff I do my cricket bats with.. raw linseed oil... works lovely.

[John Flaf]

Good point Mark.

[John Flaf]

I'd use the oil. Otherwise, your cue's going to get oiled, but with hand grease and all the dirt and chalk mixed in with that. You can't clean out hand grease.

AH I had a thought Mark but you may have answered it, I was just going to oil the shaft and leave the splices and but end natural, would this be OK. Only asking because I know how it 'feels' natural don't know if oil would make it 'tacky'.

[qc2]

When done properly it won't feel tacky. Ensure the shaft is clean and smooth beforehand, the key to it not being tacky is removing the excess oil properly after a few mins rather than let it sit for too long.

Applying and removing the excess quickly, with repeated small applications is far better than a single heavy application that's allowed to linger too long before the excess removed.

There's no issues with oiling the whole cue or just the shaft. If the butt has any sort of sealant on it, oiling it won't matter it simply won't penetrate.