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  • gone head first and need help!!

    hi, i recently gone and bought myself a cue off ebay at the time i thought i got a good deal, i like the cue just not the feel! its meant to be a peradon custom maple cue. but it seems to have like a varnish on it. i tried to put linseed on it to make it smooth, and it is for like 2 shots before i need a towel and rub it down as it gets too rough.
    now i do like the cue and already replaced the tip to a mike super tip, i just want to make it smooth and not rough, i am not confident to put any sandpaper to the cue so my question is can i put some sort of varnish remover or stripper on it but like a inch from the ferrule and joint and just linseed and beeswax the middle where it would rest on my hand? if i cant do this can someone walk me thru this because right now i'm using a 5 quid cue with a mike super tip that i bought to practice my tip changing technique! any help or reassurance would be great as i would rather use the peradon again!1 thanks in advance

  • #2
    DON'T USE PAINT-STRIPPER!!!

    If you do the results will be so bad you'll end up binning it. If you really want to do something to it I would suggest you get a sheet of the finest grade emery paper you can find, and use it gently in long smooth strokes.

    Get the emery paper from a car spares shop. It should be so fine that you can't tell that it's abrasive, 1200 or even 2000 grade. If it looks like it would hurt if you rubbed it on your eyeball, it's too rough!

    You should be ok to do it dry. If you want to use it wet, use a small amount of oil. Don't use water, it'll damage the wood. You may find that simply removing the shine from the varnish gives the feel you are looking for.

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    • #3
      thanks for that i guess i'll have to bite the bullet and use the sandpaper, i just hope its as easy as you make it sound

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      • #4
        okay quick update! i was nervous to start to do this, but i used 1200 grit paper then used the wire wool until i thought all the varnish/finish was off, then i let it soak in linseed oil for a day and finished it with the beeswax. i am very happy with the result as i tried it out and didnt get stick once!! i just want to know for curiosity was this the right procedure?

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        • #5
          Sounds good to me.

          When you say soak in linseed oil, do you mean just keep applying coat after coat every hour or so?
          http://e.imagehost.org/0813/Mellow_yellow_sig1.jpg

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          • #6
            Originally Posted by Bruv View Post
            i just want to know for curiosity was this the right procedure?
            If it worked and you're happy with the result I guess it must have been. When you say you soaked it in oil, it does sound a little heavy-handed.
            Last edited by stegorjus; 25 April 2008, 11:19 AM.

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            • #7
              Originally Posted by Bruv View Post
              okay quick update! i was nervous to start to do this, but i used 1200 grit paper then used the wire wool until i thought all the varnish/finish was off, then i let it soak in linseed oil for a day and finished it with the beeswax. i am very happy with the result as i tried it out and didnt get stick once!! i just want to know for curiosity was this the right procedure?
              yes more or less what i do.
              https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/adr147

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              • #8
                Originally Posted by Mellow Yellow View Post
                When you say soak in linseed oil, do you mean just keep applying coat after coat every hour or so?
                sorry when i say soaked what i basically done was i applied some oil to a clean rag and totally coated the shaft with the oil evenly then stuck the screwthread wedged between some cd's to keep upright. iwent back an hour or two later and realised it was dry so applied just as thick coat before i went to bed. in the morning just buffed off the excess oil!! hope this helps others in the same dilema i was in.

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                • #9
                  Not a good advert for Peradon cues then ?

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                  • #10
                    Originally Posted by BITTER View Post
                    Not a good advert for Peradon cues then ?
                    A while back Someone on this board had ordered one fRom Peradon then read here about different finishes and got on the phone the next day and they oiled it instead no problem.

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                    • #11
                      I have a Peradon prince bought it a good few years ago, and the Ash is really pure quality hardly any deep colour or very little grain, and my had the problem that yours dir, and I just used a very light sand paper on it, don't have any real problem with it now.

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                      • #12
                        Originally Posted by S Davis Fan View Post
                        my had the problem that yours dir, and I just used a very light sand paper on it, don't have any real problem with it now.
                        yeah not really complainin it is a good cue, i bought it when i just got into the sport and didn't know much of quality of cues so i went with the handmade named brand. in reflection don't get me wrong it is a good cue, but now i done these lil touches i feel it's better.
                        but now i looked at this forum and learnt what and why cues are good, maybe other brands can offer better quality for same price or less without modifying.

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                        • #13
                          I had a Peradon Ascot, thought it was handmade, and it got terribly sticky aftyer a few frames. I bought a North West cue, and its great. But Im considering getting a different weight for it. I want it a bit heavier. Also wanna try a talisman tip.

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