Butt Lacquer

[Qubit]

I need to re-lacquer a cue butt (powerglide), anyone knowledgeable happen to know of something suitable (preferably similar to the powerglide stuff) thats commercially available? Cheers!

[Wity]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-PAINT-CLEA...2em118Q2el1247

About £2.50 in your local car parts place.

[mick farrell]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CAR-PAINT-CLEA...2em118Q2el1247

About £2.50 in your local car parts place.

I have same problem with my cue. It's an old dufferin 1 piece maple. I had it lengthened about 5 years ago and the lacquer sanded off the last 8 inches of the butt. I had to resort to sellotape to get that laquered "feel". Will the car paint lacquer in your reply really do the job? Thanks.

[poolqjunkie]

Most of the lacquer, shellac...etc will come off over time if you apply them yourself. The mirror like auto finish needs to be applied in a spray booth, which is not really possible for a regular guy who wants to do it on his own cue.
You can buy some polyurethane finish, some come with a leveling agent so perhaps you can rub it on, and then just let it dry off and it will be smooth enough without any sanding.
If you have a basic wood lathe, you may want to try using epoxy. Epoxy will form a very hard finish which will not wear off like lacquer would. It , however, needs lots of sanding so you need to have a lathe of some sort, nothing fancy, but it has to keep rotating the cue as you sand and polish it. Just do wet and dry saning as you move from the coarse to the finer sanding papers. Be caseful that you do not sand all the way through or else you need to do it again.

[trevs1]

Qubit,

If you want a cheap, readily available lacquer type finish for the cue butt, there is a product you can use. It's made by Rustins, and is called 'plastic coating'

This is a two part finish which can be easily applied by brush.
The first coat is the slowest to dry, but once that is done, subsequent coatings dry very very rapidly. Once you have given it this first coat, it might pay to give it two coats before every time you cut it back, this will offer some protection against cutting through the finish back to the bare timber. After about 8 - 10 coats, and, lightly cutting back for a final time and burnishing it up, you'll definitely have the original look of the Powerglide type lacquer, a thick plasticy feeling finish.

It may also pay to leave the last coating for about 48 hours to really harden up well before final cutting and burnishing, this should do nicely for what you're after.

[Wity]

Why would you like a lacquered feel anyway? I've used the car stuff on an all ash 2 piece cue that I sanded down and repainted the butt half and it turned out fine. (No need for a mask let alone a spay booth I did it in the shed with the door open.) but there is no comparison to the far superior oil finish.

[Qubit]

Qubit,

If you want a cheap, readily available lacquer type finish for the cue butt, there is a product you can use. It's made by Rustins, and is called 'plastic coating'

This is a two part finish which can be easily applied by brush.
The first coat is the slowest to dry, but once that is done, subsequent coatings dry very very rapidly. Once you have given it this first coat, it might pay to give it two coats before every time you cut it back, this will offer some protection against cutting through the finish back to the bare timber. After about 8 - 10 coats, and, lightly cutting back for a final time and burnishing it up, you'll definitely have the original look of the Powerglide type lacquer, a thick plasticy feeling finish.

It may also pay to leave the last coating for about 48 hours to really harden up well before final cutting and burnishing, this should do nicely for what you're after.

Cheers Trevor exactly what im looking for!

[trevs1]

You are very welcome Tim.

[Qubit]

Why would you like a lacquered feel anyway? I've used the car stuff on an all ash 2 piece cue that I sanded down and repainted the butt half and it turned out fine. (No need for a mask let alone a spay booth I did it in the shed with the door open.) but there is no comparison to the far superior oil finish.

I actually need it for a couple of reasons: 1) im repairing a friends cue with a lacquered butt. 2) im extending an old powerglide and i want the same kind of feel. You prefer your butt oiled, i actually quite like a lacquered butt

[Wity]

Fair enough, That Rustins stuff by the sounds of it is quite different to the car lacquer and probably a different feel. If Trevor reckons it's akin to the Powerglide finish then go for it.

[888]

I actually need it for a couple of reasons: 1) im repairing a friends cue with a lacquered butt. 2) im extending an old powerglide and i want the same kind of feel. You prefer your butt oiled, i actually quite like a lacquered butt

i'm also prefer lacquered butt too.

[ibooges]

Is JP cues being laqured for finishing?

[alcotty321]

no need for laquer 7 coats of tung oil will look beautiful will glow like the moon

[Karlos795]

Qubit,

If you want a cheap, readily available lacquer type finish for the cue butt, there is a product you can use. It's made by Rustins, and is called 'plastic coating'

This is a two part finish which can be easily applied by brush.
The first coat is the slowest to dry, but once that is done, subsequent coatings dry very very rapidly. Once you have given it this first coat, it might pay to give it two coats before every time you cut it back, this will offer some protection against cutting through the finish back to the bare timber. After about 8 - 10 coats, and, lightly cutting back for a final time and burnishing it up, you'll definitely have the original look of the Powerglide type lacquer, a thick plasticy feeling finish.

It may also pay to leave the last coating for about 48 hours to really harden up well before final cutting and burnishing, this should do nicely for what you're after.

Hi what do you mean by cut it back, do you mean sanding it? many thanks