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Applying Cue Oil - Step By Step?

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  • Applying Cue Oil - Step By Step?

    Hi all,

    A while back I bought some cue oil from Welsh Pool Trading and I've been putting of oiling my Craftsman Classic "Victor" cue just in case I somehow do it wrong. My understanding is that you just apply the oil to all the "wooden" parts of the cue (inc. the butt?) and then wipe of excess oil and buff to a finish...

    I have a few questions though:
    1) What should I use to apply the oil? (Tissue, Clean rag, Sponge)?
    2) How long should I leave the oil on the cue for? (although I may have answered this myself - in that it doesn't matter as the cue will only absorb what it needs)
    3) How should you leave the cue while you are waiting for the oil to be absorbed? I have a 3/4 length cue and can't really think of a way to perch it upright, but if it's just lying down (on a cloth, so as not to stain carpet), then surely the section touching the cloth will not soak in?
    4) Is it then simply a matter of wiping away excess oil and buffing (with a clean cloth/tissue)?

    Thanks for any advice on this. Ideally I was searching for a Step-By-Step (idiots guide) to oiling your cue, but any help will be appreciated!

    Cheers,

  • #2
    I wrote this a while ago. I know it talks about linseed oil but works the same.

    Whenever i need to oil/clean up my cue i go through several processes as preparation is everything. Ive used raw and boiled and never really noticed a difference except the drying times and the fact boiled tends to add a little more age to the cue. Which sometimes is never a bad thing.

    This is only for cues that have NOT been treated with varnish

    1) Using very very fine grade wire wool (0000) i clean the joints and ferrel. On the ferrel try to stick to one direction, otherwise you will get a very fine scratchy effect.

    2) Wipe cloth down with ever so slightly damp cloth and immediately wipe dry with a clean towel.

    3) Then take the fine wire wool on the shaft and rub in a downwards direction, but not too hard, just enough to smooth. NEVER! go in different directions.

    4) Now get a small piece of fine wire wool and add a little linseed oil to it and rub onto the cue. This helps the oil get into the wood.

    5) Leave 12 hours

    6) With a lint free cloth, buff up the cue. But make one pass first as there maybe bits of wire wool deposited. Then shake the cloth before continuing.

    7) Now apply evenly using a rag more linseed oil and leave another 12 hours.

    8) With a lint free cloth, buff up the cue.

    If the cue is not lovely and shiny by then i go back and repeat till i get the desired look. It takes about a week to properly cue. When done i have found a beeswax stick rubbed on the cue and then buffed off gives extra protection. But it does take alot of buffing. Then finally try some colron finishing wax to polish.

    PS: I usually do the job on a kitchen unit and get a roll of tissue layed out.
    Last edited by totlxtc; 1 October 2008, 01:07 PM.
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    • #3
      Cheers Totlxtc, that's just what I was looking for. :-)

      So just to check, you leave the cue lying down on some tissue while the oil sinks in (12hrs or so)?

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      • #4
        Yes i just roll out 2 layers of tissue paper at the same length of the cue and leave it alone to give it time to feed the wood. Dont over oil as it will be very messy and awful to try to get off. Its better to do lots of light coats than few thick coats. I usually do a coat at say 8pm, then leave overnight and when i wake up for work i rub off any excess and apply another coat. That way by the time im at 8pm again i can do another. You will tell when it has finished feeding as no more oil will go into the wood. You will be suprised how much it can soak in. Good luck...and remember a little patience and preparation goes miles.
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        • #5
          cant be arsed with all that messing about i just use cue silk every couple of weeks and it seems to do the job. just use that blue and white kitchen cloth to apply it. 30 secs the jobs done....

          Each to their own though, would never slate anyone personally if they take their time to use various products to keep the cue in tip top condition as long as it WORKS and is not some trumped up gimmick....Its just I am an impatient person and the cue silk works for me
          Its not how well you play its how good you look playing that counts!

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          • #6
            Is that cue silk any good? Never tried it myself and good to try new things.
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            • #7
              i like it and its simple to use, just a few drops on the cloth, buff up and down the whole cue for 20 secs and then whipe clean. wash hands and away you go. But could not say in comparison to others as never used anything else.

              even though i played for over 25 years b4 I joined here and talked to other enthusiasts and cuemakers i used to use a damp cloth, but clearly there are many who say never use that, so now I don't...
              Its not how well you play its how good you look playing that counts!

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              • #8
                Depends on the existing finish i reckon as what best to do.....if you use a damp cloth on a waxed finish cue it can ruin it as you can find some of the dark brown finish on the cloth, thats why some makers don't recommend it, an oil finished cue should be ok with a damp cloth then buff dry no problem, and applying oil every so often shouldn't be a problem either.
                Other thing is to get best results you need to know what the existing finish is as oil over wax etc no good, unless its been cut back first.
                I find oil best for shaft..and would only use beeswax on the butt to make it shine, if its applyed to the shaft it tends to snag in the bridge hand eventually and dirt & grime will cut in to it, then the wax will need removing and re applying...don't seem to get this problem with oil.

                All just my opinion.....others will have there own view on whats best but as long what you do works well for you thats the main thing.
                Last edited by CueAntW147; 2 October 2008, 04:19 PM.

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