Question for experts

[bonoman1970]

Are there any cue experts out there who could help me with a query?
I use ash ,however after a while the grain(chevrons) do raise up quite a bit and make the cue feel lumpy ect.It happened with my last one ,and I dont want it to happen with my present one(a very old one piece ash).Now I do look after my cue ,and dont really put anything on it apart from occasional dab of beeswax.
Can anyone tell me why this happens to ash and is there any way to stop it?

[totlxtc]

Do they raise up? Or is the grain recessed? I maybe able to help you on this one. But im no expert

[bonoman1970]

Hi there, its a bit of both, the chevrons raise up ,whilst the surrounding wood seems to shrink, leaving a rough uneven feeling ,especially when using the rest.
I dont like to sand my cue down ,but was wondering if anyone else has this problem and is it due to the wood drying out or too much moisture or too cold/hot ect ,
many thanks

[totlxtc]

Ok this is the way i have refurbed cues which have pitted on the grain:

Try oiling it first. This can lift any pits that may have been caused by drying out. Follow this example:

Oiling (Feeding the wood)

Whenever i need to oil/clean up my cue i go through several processes as preparation is everything. Ive used raw and boiled and never really noticed a difference except the drying times and the fact boiled tends to add a little more age to the cue. Which sometimes is never a bad thing.

This is only for cues that have NOT been treated with varnish

1) Using very very fine grade wire wool (0000) i clean the joints and ferrel. On the ferrel try to stick to one direction, otherwise you will get a very fine scratchy effect.

2) Wipe cloth down with ever so slightly damp cloth and immediately wipe dry with a clean towel.

3) Then take the fine wire wool on the shaft and rub in a downwards direction, but not too hard, just enough to smooth. NEVER! go in different directions.

4) Now get a small piece of fine wire wool and add a little linseed oil to it and rub onto the cue. This helps the oil get into the wood.

5) Leave 12 hours

6) With a lint free cloth, buff up the cue. But make one pass first as there maybe bits of wire wool deposited. Then shake the cloth before continuing.

7) Now apply evenly using a rag more linseed oil and leave another 12 hours.

8) With a lint free cloth, buff up the cue.

If the cue is not lovely and shiny by then i go back and repeat till i get the desired look. It takes about a week to properly cue. When done i have found a beeswax stick rubbed on the cue and then buffed off gives extra protection. But it does take alot of buffing. Then finally try some colron finishing wax to polish.

PS: I usually do the job on a kitchen unit and get a roll of tissue layed out.

More severe job would require a little filling and is very messy and not for the light hearted.....but it works!

Grain Filling

It should take between 1hour and 3 hours to get done properly depending on if it a whole cue or just part of, but it will bring the cue back to life now. I found out how to do this a month ago and already done 16 cues now.

Right stuff you will need is:

Powder Dye (I can supply you with some)
Cuprinol Heavy duty wood filler (Homebase for about £2.99-£3.99)
000 grade wire wool
00000 wire wool
Very fine sandpaper

First thing to do is prepare the area and make sure its dirt and grease free. Next mix up a small about of filler with a very very small amount of the dye until the colour is matched. Do it in small amounts as the filler does dry quick and by the time you have done a small area it would dry up. With your thumb work the filler into the areas as thin as you can as the thicker it is the more rub down you will have to do. Try this on a small area first to get the idea then when confident do this to all the offending areas, and dont panic, it will look awful i promise you. When dry (about 10-20 mins) get the 000 wire wool and rub down the areas. You will see now the filler is left in the grain, whilst ash has revealed itself. When you have all the excess filler off (Which is the longest and hardest part), rub the areas down with 00000 wire wool till nice and shiny. I would recommend oiling, waxing and polish just to finish the job off which I can run you through how to do that, but to get a glass finish can take days, but is really worth the while.

Send me your address and ill post you some powder dye.

Like i said im not an expert just someone who has had to find ways around problems. So you can take my advice as its given. Hope this help

[bonoman1970]

Thanks very much for your very detailed information, I am using a very old piece of ash,which I have just noticed is starting to have very slight imperfections in the shaft, I think from what youve said that I may need to oil it, as it maybe drying out perhaps.My last one became almost unplayable as it was too uneven and eventually I had to discard it.I just hope that by keeping it oiled that it will remain smooth for years.

Thanks a lot for your help.

[totlxtc]

Wire wool it first off and do it well. That will get rid of any old grime and also only shaves thousand of a mil off, unlike sandpaper. this in turn opens the pores of the wood up so the oil can soak in better. If its really dry be prepared for alot of coats. Keep going until its all soaked in. The wood will only take what it needs so you cant go wrong. Just dont put too much on or it goes all gloopy.

[bonoman1970]

Problem is thats its such a really beautiful old piece of ash,that I dont really want to take the finish off it and re-do it,its really lovely at the moment,just dont want it to go like my old cue within time.
Do you know why ash does this ,could it be because it is drying out or maybe Im wiping it down too often (with a dry cloth)?
regards

[totlxtc]

Ash goes golden in colour over time. Ends up a really nice aged colour. With wire wool it simply takes a little slither off, you would not even notice apart from the fact the surface is getting smoother. Wood dries out over time as a natural process, hence why you have to feed the wood to keep it in good condition. If it dries out it can start to split or crack and then thats is more or less the end. Dont worry using wire wool, especially the very fine wool. Its not like sandpaper and wont do any damage as long as you work with the grain. You will be amazed how smooth your shaft will go with a little bit of effort. And remember....preparation is 9 10ths of a job

[poolqjunkie]

Usually the darker lines of the ash will contract more than the whiter part over time, thus the unevenness you feel. I think that is perfectly normal, just a sign of a nice piece of old seasoned ash.

May be oiling it will help? I am not sure.
If you hold the cue the same way every time, can you just get used to the feel of the grains overtime?

[Asi]

Ash goes golden in colour over time. Ends up a really nice aged colour. With wire wool it simply takes a little slither off, you would not even notice apart from the fact the surface is getting smoother. Wood dries out over time as a natural process, hence why you have to feed the wood to keep it in good condition. If it dries out it can start to split or crack and then thats is more or less the end. Dont worry using wire wool, especially the very fine wool. Its not like sandpaper and wont do any damage as long as you work with the grain. You will be amazed how smooth your shaft will go with a little bit of effort. And remember....preparation is 9 10ths of a job

"...work with the grain..."
Do you mean from the tip to butt or the other way? Thanks

[totlxtc]

Just work in straight downward strokes. Never go side to side.

[DandyA]

"...work with the grain..."
Do you mean from the tip to butt or the other way? Thanks

I'm no expert but it must be from the tip to the butt surely ... cos that's the way you slide the cue over your bridge-hand when you are cueing ...

If the grain was from butt to tip, surely the cue would be rougher as you slide it over your bridge-hand ...

It's the same with the nap of the cloth, the nap on any table is smoother from the baulk end to the black end of the table ...

[totlxtc]

Yes sorry i was not clear there. I always work from tip to butt no matter what, oiling, wire wooling, sanding etc