master cues?

[poolqjunkie]

I think if you like your cue, then that is all that matters. Some people are so negative that they will look for reasons to complain about everything. I like the pictures of your cue, the shaft and splicings look very good. Liek I said, if you like it, then never mind what other people say(especially if it was from someone who never has anything positive to say about anything.)
This is your cue, and other people's opinion is just a piece of opinion.

[poolqjunkie]

Kevy62... Logic tells me that any cuemaker who takes an cue order requiring such and such wood, so and so measurements and naturally weighted at xx ounces" without telling you thats impossible is going to add weight or hollow out the butt someway.

Suggest you get a metal detecter mate and find the lump of lead in your butt. Ulkrits good but he aint God

If a cue is to be made with certain woods, and the customer asked to have it naturally balanced say 17" from the butt, the cue maker can find different weight combination of butt and shaft weight to make it happen without inserting an extra bolt in the butt, unless if it is very extreme, like something very butt heavy.

It is because shaft weight can vary quite a bit, and the tip size, length, taper, joint diameter...can also be used to adjust the weight. Also, for 3/4 cues, the butt length and diameter, can also helps to adjust the balance point. If it cannot be done unless extra weight has to be added, then the cue maker will simply say so. There is nothing wrong with adding weight.

Even if there are metal parts added, or hollow parts, it does not necessarily make the cue play any worst. If it is built and balanced well, it will be a good player.

With American pool cue, different joint material can also be used to adjust the balance. e.g. ivory joint with an ebony forearm, metal joint with a maple forearm, or wood to wood joint vs metal joint with a brass insert to off set the weight of the shaft...to achieve the ideal balance point.

Once again, balance point is so important in the playabiliy of a cue. I would say the balance point and the taper are the two most important factors when it comes to playability.

Edit: Also want to add that although I do not think it is done with snooker cue, but with American pool cues, coring is also a common method used to adjust the weight, prevent warpage, and so on. Basiclaly a maple dowel will be inserted into the whole butt section, or the forearm and handle. So, you could have a butt totally made with ebony on the outside (29" long), with a maple dowel in the middle, to achieve the weight your customer asks for.

[ADR147]

at last ADR147 a sensible comment, keep it simple, cheers

Also i 'm not so naive to think that all his cues are without fault.
but mine is superb, both to play with & look at.

I do know there have been joint problems in the past, i am in no way trying to defend bad workmanship, but cues made in Thailand are always going to have problems with joints, as the tempreture changes from there to here are large enough for the joints to sweat loose, this happens during transportation with almost any cues made in warmer climates & shipped here in cooler tempetures, a fact of life.

It is very common fault, but a fault none the less, but re-bonding a joint is not really all that bad? unless you have just bought 12 gross .

the problem is the joiunts are not threaded so the work loose. if you buy a 100 cues and have to spend 25 hours on repairs all your profit is gone.

[kevy62]

I think if you like your cue, then that is all that matters. Some people are so negative that they will look for reasons to complain about everything. I like the pictures of your cue, the shaft and splicings look very good. Liek I said, if you like it, then never mind what other people say(especially if it was from someone who never has anything to say about anything.)
This is your cue, and other people's opinion is just a piece of opinion.

thanks for the comments

I'm sorry for the quality of the pictures, but belive me when i say they really don't do it any justice.

[poolqjunkie]

thanks for the comments

I'm sorry for the quality of the pictures, but belive me when i say they really don't do it any justice.

Yes, it is a nice looking cue, and the price is unbeatable. Thanks for sharing the pictures.

By the way, I just want to add that I agree with you, that power is dependent on weight, and I also believe it depends on velocity. Power is measured by kinectic energy transfered to the cue ball from the cue, and kinetic energy is dependent on mass and velocity. But a change in velocity will have more effect on power than the same change in weight. I also think balance point will affect the delivery of the cue--a nicely balanced cue would feel liek an extension of one's arm..

[kevy62]

the problem is the joiunts are not threaded so the work loose. if you buy a 100 cues and have to spend 25 hours on repairs all your profit is gone.

I know,that's why i said! "unless you have just bought 12 gross"
which means, if you have bought a lot of them & you're screwed!!

[kevy62]

ROLO said this in post #25
Logic tells me that any cuemaker who takes an cue order requiring such and such wood, so and so measurements and naturally weighted at xx ounces" without telling you thats impossible is going to add weight or hollow out the butt someway.
Suggest you get a metal detecter mate and find the lump of lead in your butt. Ulkrits good but he aint God


ROLO said this in post #36
"A metal detector and/or whatever is used to measure solidity would need to used to prove it one way or the other so i wont say put your money where your mouth is."

And although the weight of a cue, made to the spec you stated may well be within the 19 to 19.5 ounces overall natural weight as ADR has said Unless every cuemaker who quoted you has every possible meaurements and weights of the various materials on file or a computor for a brain the chances of it also having the specified balance point at 18" naturally is pure coincidence.



Holy cr*p ROLO, what in hells flames are you talking about?

I said there is no EXTRA weight in the cue, why are you being so daft about this?
why can't you just accept what i've said & leave it at that?

I don't want to have to go to all this effort to explain somthing that any cuebuilder will instantly know.


#1
go to https://www.parriscues.com/home.html

if you look at the pretty pictures of cues & like one of them, it will tell you the weight length & so on & so forth, "naturally ballanced" if you want weight added of course you can, but look at the different weight cues in his range, from 17oz to 21oz ... not weighted!

still don't believe me ? i will try to explain but these are only rough as all timber has different density properties , so , i'm sure you can fill in the blanks.

#2
to lighten a cue you can reduce the taper on the top shaft or shorten it from say58" to 57" this will make the balance point more to the rear because you have removed weight( between 1 to 3oz (understand) adversely,if you shave the butt section down to say 29mm from 31mm this will also change weight & the point of balance also by upto 3.5oz or so, but will change it from say 17" to 18" .

#3
balance your cue on its balance point, then place a one pound coin on the butt section,
(about 0.5 oz) the balance point will move to the rear. if you could put it on the tip it would change forward.

now imagine that you can take that one piece natrally weighted cue & cut it in two in front of its ballance point, you will after fitting the solid brass joint have a very front heavy cue, so as you can see by putting the joint behind the natural balance point it will be butt heavy, add a butt joint & your done ...ok.

Joints come in any shape/size/weight, any custom maker will turn down from a blank if the joint weight is too heavy or to long/short, you can do the same for butt joints you could have long/short, as for it being guesswork , it's not ,it's an art! you can also change the joint around & have the male in the topshaft or in the butt, this will change things in a massive way, even the weight & length of the ferrule is taken into consideration...

I DONT NEED TO PROVE ANYTHING i have the proof right here! because "I do know" .

[poolqjunkie]

A cue maker does not need to be a walking computer or a rocket scicentic to know the weights of his woods in stock. I do not know how other people do it, but one simple way is just to weight the woods, label them and stock them accordingly on its respective shelf.
If a person can accept that a cue can play well with a 3/4 brass joint inserted both in the shaft and the butt, and has no problem with a piece of brass insert at the very end for the extension(SD joint), what is the problem with weight bolts inserted in the butt for a better balance point? I do not see the logic behind the complain here.
I do not think all John Parris cues are naturally balanced though. May be someone can confirm it?
Anyway, Kevy, i dont think you should get too excited over this. You have a cue you are happy with, and that is what really matters.
Go win some matches now.

[kevy62]

Pooljunkie... confirmation here..
http://www.thesnookerforum.com/board...ad.php?t=14471

oops ! if this is not a fake then nobody will ever buy a Parris cue again?

we know that JP uses lead for custom weight changes, every cuemaker hollows out too, but stuffing steel into a butt section is a cheap Chinese trick, if you are in any doubt ? contact JP personally & ask him !

I have forwarded your post & the link to JP's email .

[trevs1]

I think you'll find that numerous UK makers were weighting cues with steel well before the Chinese got into cue manufacture to any notable scale.

[sunny3909]

I use a master cue and in my opinion they are very good at their price.But the biggest drawback with master cue is that there quality varies a lot so u need to carefully select one.I have generally found that the wood used by master cues is stiffer then the the other ones.I personally like a cue which has got a stiif shaft so that it gives u a nice solid feel while playing.The splice work and the finish of a master cue may not as good as of the top cuemaker but the their shafts are as very very good.

[kevy62]

I use a master cue and in my opinion they are very good at their price.But the biggest drawback with master cue is that there quality varies a lot so u need to carefully select one.I have generally found that the wood used by master cues is stiffer then the the other ones.I personally like a cue which has got a stiif shaft so that it gives u a nice solid feel while playing.The splice work and the finish of a master cue may not as good as of the top cuemaker but the their shafts are as very very good.

nice post, i can agree with you on the poker stiff shafts bit, as that's somthing that Ulkrit is famed for, aswell as nice tight grain on the sides of the shaft & good darts too

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[ADR147]

what difference does it make what a cue is weighted with???????? does not matter if its weighted with bull semen as long as it does the job

[kevy62]

I think you'll find that numerous UK makers were weighting cues with steel well before the Chinese got into cue manufacture to any notable scale.

Hi Trev, I 'm sure you wouldn't ever do that though.
reputation is everything.... years to make & seconds to ruin, right!

[kevy62]

Is molten lead poured in or put in cold ?

OK! you're kidding right? i'll assume you're trying to have a laugh with me ?

If I was doing this job i would work out how much weight is needed & where, then assuming i have already drilled the butt of the cue , make a cardboard mould (using a tool i have about the size/shape of a thick pensil) to pour the weighed lead into the mould & leave to cool, once this is cold i would rough it up lightly with a file & fit using a bonding solution into the butt press the "cold" lead weight into the required position in the butt.

the answer is cold lead, ok!