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how do i refinish my peradon century?

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  • how do i refinish my peradon century?

    hi

    i have a peradon century that i really like. the only problem is that the cue is varnished or lacquered. so if i play longer it gets sticky. i read something here in the forum that it is possible to remove the lacquer so that it gets smoother
    how do i have to do that step by step and which accessoires (sandpaper, wire wool, oil) do i need. can i do this by my own?
    please help me because i don't want to destroy my cue. it would be great if somebody could it explain to me step by step because i have never done this before.
    thank you very much

    greetings flo

  • #2
    There is a very good way of cleaning a cue that only requires water, just have a look at this link.

    Make sure your cue is perfectly dry after and make sure the cue towels are clean (no dirt).

    Comment


    • #3
      Bset way to finish a Peradon Century cue involves a litre of petrol and a box of matches. Oh and then a phone call to a good cue maker after to order a proper cue.


      Originally Posted by teufel9 View Post
      hi

      i have a peradon century that i really like. the only problem is that the cue is varnished or lacquered. so if i play longer it gets sticky. i read something here in the forum that it is possible to remove the lacquer so that it gets smoother
      how do i have to do that step by step and which accessoires (sandpaper, wire wool, oil) do i need. can i do this by my own?
      please help me because i don't want to destroy my cue. it would be great if somebody could it explain to me step by step because i have never done this before.
      thank you very much

      greetings flo
      http://thecueguru.weebly.com/

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally Posted by JasonOwen View Post
        Bset way to finish a Peradon Century cue involves a litre of petrol and a box of matches. Oh and then a phone call to a good cue maker after to order a proper cue.
        Petrol and matches is my line
        It's also a bit harsh to use it on someone with a Peradon. I normally reserve that line for those with real tat.

        Comment


        • #5
          If you buy a Peradon cue through CUEWIZARD will it be lacqured or oiled ? If its normally lacqured will they oil the cue instead if you request it when ordering?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally Posted by teufel9 View Post
            hi

            i have a peradon century that i really like. the only problem is that the cue is varnished or lacquered. so if i play longer it gets sticky. i read something here in the forum that it is possible to remove the lacquer so that it gets smoother
            how do i have to do that step by step and which accessoires (sandpaper, wire wool, oil) do i need. can i do this by my own?
            please help me because i don't want to destroy my cue. it would be great if somebody could it explain to me step by step because i have never done this before.
            thank you very much

            greetings flo
            If you have never done it, I would advice against it.
            For one thing, I am not sure how you can take the finish off with sand paper, and still keep the cue round and centered.
            This may reduce the butt diameter to a degree which you may no longer feel comfortable. How thick is this varnish, I dont know.
            I think there is a chemical out there which is designed to strip off old finish.
            My advice would be to send it to a professional.
            www.AuroraCues.com

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally Posted by bmck View Post
              If you buy a Peradon cue through CUEWIZARD will it be lacqured or oiled ? If its normally lacqured will they oil the cue instead if you request it when ordering?
              I'm not sure how this helps.
              Are you suggesting he should go back in time and order the cue again?

              I also think if you order on cue wizard it will no longer be a standard model so cost more.

              I would have said send to a pro but from Austria for a machine spliced cue I'm not sure it's worth it.

              Sanding shouldn't alter the shape if your careful.
              Worth noting about the butt diameter though.

              Comment


              • #8
                It is impossible to keep the cue round and true if you sand it by hand, because you will be applying uneven pressure with your sand paper, and the cue will not be rotated evenly as you sand. I have never worked on this particular type of cue, but when i tried to sand down other cues, I noticed that the finish sometimes seem to have penetrated the wood a bit, and the finish on some of these cues are not even evenly applied to begin with--which means I can have one spot totally stripped, but there will still be some spots with finish.
                If you do it by hand, there will be flat spot, and unevenesss. I can always spot them when i look at a cue.
                There is a chemical you can apply to make things easier, it helps to strip the old finish. Some of the cues in Canada are finished with epoxy and this chemical does not work.
                If it is finsihed with super glue, i would use Mr. Clean magic eraser dipped in super glue solvent to remove the finish, it is quite effective.
                Is it a 3/4 cue? When you sand around the joint, be careful you do not take away more wood than metal.
                I would strongly recommend against trying it yourself. It is a irrversible process, and a lot of cues are ruined that way.
                www.AuroraCues.com

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally Posted by ROLO View Post
                  how many l's?

                  lol - 'I' was just thinking the same thing!

                  you might end up with a miss-shaped cue, however slight it will still be better than a *perfectly round varnished cue.

                  *it will not be perfectly round anyway at the moment anyway.

                  PJ likes to up his thread count and sound very intelligent, but it really won't make any difference to the shape anyway.


                  my advice is don't listen to anyones advice - just do what you like, its only a snooker cue.
                  http://e.imagehost.org/0813/Mellow_yellow_sig1.jpg

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I sent my peradon to Mike Wooldridge and he sorted it
                    My Flickr

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally Posted by ROLO View Post
                      Any more plonkers with more money than common sense here?
                      errrr ... don't we all fit that description? I'm one of them/us but come-on peeps ...

                      aren't there more worthwhile things to do than trying to hit silly little balls into holes on a big table top with a stick?

                      my answer is no but I admit I am sad

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally Posted by JasonOwen View Post
                        Bset way to finish a Peradon Century cue involves a litre of petrol and a box of matches. Oh and then a phone call to a good cue maker after to order a proper cue.

                        More stupid comments about Peradon cues, its not rocket science if your cue is sticky sand off the varnish/laquer or keep it clean.
                        If Peradon cues are so bad why are there so few 2nd hand ones on Ebay?
                        Take a look and I think you will find more so called high quality cues, Parris, Wooldridge, White, Hunt & Osbourne etc cues for sale, which puzzles me because if these are so much better than a mass produced cue why are there so many for sale? Seems odd that someone pays so much more for a cue than they are worth waits 3 months for it and then sells it!!!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Slightly off topic but has anyone ever seen a Keith Auld for sale on ebay? I looked also under gardening just in case it was sold as a tomato stick but no luck.
                          www.AuroraCues.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally Posted by JasonOwen View Post
                            Bset way to finish a Peradon Century cue involves a litre of petrol and a box of matches. Oh and then a phone call to a good cue maker after to order a proper cue.
                            lol. a little unfair but certainly made me laugh
                            The Cuefather.

                            info@handmadecues.com

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally Posted by jonashford View Post
                              More stupid comments about Peradon cues, its not rocket science if your cue is sticky sand off the varnish/laquer or keep it clean.
                              If Peradon cues are so bad why are there so few 2nd hand ones on Ebay?
                              Take a look and I think you will find more so called high quality cues, Parris, Wooldridge, White, Hunt & Osbourne etc cues for sale, which puzzles me because if these are so much better than a mass produced cue why are there so many for sale? Seems odd that someone pays so much more for a cue than they are worth waits 3 months for it and then sells it!!!
                              I do think you have a valid point,well kinda, although if you check the preadon website, you will find cues for much less cash than any of the independant makers you have named above.

                              As an example a low end peradon cue can be yours for as little as £46 so what would it be worth on E-boll*cks ?? thats right it would not be worth putting it on ! because it would cost £10/£15 to post it + fees to paypunk & E-boll*cks ...just simply not worth it! get it?

                              Many "good players" have to look for an "edge" when they peak at whatever level of play.

                              These players, firmly believe that a hand made cue will offer the edge they are looking for.

                              Unfortunately many of these players realise too late that the cue cannot give them a fantastic technique, or improve their bad timing, or help them breakbuild, unless they had these attributes to start with in the first place.

                              This is due to many other factors which have nothing what so ever to do with a cue, some older players posess a skill level of novices at best, but have pots cash to spend on a cue they believe, will make them a great player, or popular in their local club, when it simply dosen't work out, they just plain give up , due in no small part to frustration, they sell the cue on E-boll*cks in a vain attempt to get some cash back.

                              These cues are usually short/long/light/heavy, not a cue perhaps to suit every player, so they get sold on , in some cases 5 or 6 times until it finds a loving home.

                              These cues named above are costly, but if you tried to find the materials to build one "even if you have the skills" the cost would soon put you off , this is before you have spent anything upto 3 day's in man hours, over a 3 week preiod, crafting a piece of art from different woods from around the world.

                              This is what you are paying for!

                              I personally believe players can be "made" but this takes time & complete dedication to the task, .....so does hand building a cue
                              don't miss!

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