What glue is best for tips

[DandyA]

What he said - practice. Also dont put too much glue on, sounds obvious but too much will give it a slight tendency to slide out of position more.

Finally, what Qubit says above is a great point to remember...."Do not put too much on". A tiny droplet is all that is required, and, if you dab the tip against the drop of glue in the centre of the ferrule, then spread the glue about with the tip, it might surprise people just how long you have to re-position the tip to centre it.

thanks both - I'll try that next time, that sounds like what I might have been doing wrong ...

[poolqjunkie]

I've only retipped my cue four times but here's my experience - feel free to laugh ...

first time ... I bought Tweeten's 10min tip cement ... it seemed to hold the tip but it fell off after say 30 shots ...

second time ... tried the same Tweeten's tip cement but followed the instructions this time ... it lasted 7 days but popped off on a vital shot when I was in a very strong position to beat the best player at my local pub at pool ...

so I gave up with the 10min cement and switched to superglue gel which is great - you are guaranteed your tip won't fall off ... the only problem is you only have one chance to fit it dead centre - and with my big hands and poor eyesight, I've never managed it ...

that in itself isn't a disaster - tips are normally oversized so if you fit it off-centre it just means you have more filing to do ...

but I've heard people can fit an exactly sized tip exactly dead-centre on the ferrule using superglue ... how? is there a special tool I don't know about?

Tweenten is not good at all.

You do not really need to center it that well, because the tip is as you said oversized.

If you have a lathe, you can center it on a concave center, it will give you a centered tip everytime.

A lot of super glue gel takes quite a while to dry. I will not be as concern about it being center than if you have faced the surfaces properly. Some cues have been messed up by others, so the top of the ferrule is not really even and flat. With those type of ferrule, you will have a hard time making the tip stay on. You need to re-face the top to make it flat again.

I usually just use a small blade to take off the old tip and the glue, but really nothing else. Do not use that sanding disk to take too much wood or ferrule out, this could cause an uneven surface. You can use the blade to sort of measure if the top surface is perpendicular and flat.

I believe lots of tips came off because the top surface is not even/flat, rather than not having the right glue.

Using more glue will not make the tip stay on better; not using enough can cause the tip to pop off. Some super glue needs to be stored in the fridge, some needs a bit of water as catalyst. Read the instruction. Also, check the shelf life, some will not work so well once it has been opened for a while. If you are going to only do your own tip, I would suggest buying smaller tubes.

[Stretch147]

Very Good thread guys. I shouls have read this before starting the exact same one.. sorry

Just two questions:
How long after the tip is glued on do i have to wait before shaping it
How long before i can hit a ball.

I'll be retipping this week. Would love to hear replies.
Thanks

[Mellow Yellow]

depends what glue you use and how quickly it sets.

with the superglue i use you can shape it within a few minutes of sticking it on.

after giving it a general shape I tap mine gently on a hard surface (kitchen table) to give the effect of hitting a ball to bed it in a bit (not required with layered tips), then give it a final shaping, but generally once its dry and shaped its ready to play with.

[totlxtc]

If your using Loctite superglue gel like this:



Then its literally a minute or two later before you can go about shaping the tip. But make sure you have the tipped positioned correctly as once you put any pressure on its stuck down firmly. Like Mellow Yellow said tapping against a hard surface works best, i use my wood floor for the same job.

[Stretch147]

Magic picture, that's the glue i'm using. So within ten mins..That's good to know. Parris site says leave it over night, but i'm going to follow ADR147's tip guide. Very good pictures and comments on it.

[totlxtc]

Magic picture, that's the glue i'm using. So within ten mins..That's good to know. Parris site says leave it over night, but i'm going to follow ADR147's tip guide. Very good pictures and comments on it.

Parris knows nothing...he whittles toothpicks all day

The encyclopedia of all snooker and pool A.K.A. ADR147 is the way to go. Never had a bad bit of advice off the guy.

[highbreak 8]

reply

Even with super glue , you should really leave the tip for at least ten mins , it takes a little wile to dry , i usually leave it 1 hour or overnight , if i can , the longer the better , but if your preperation is not correct ie out of line ferrule it will fall off anyway .so , prep well and follow those guides and you will be ok . ps i use the floor as well .

[totlxtc]

Oh another tip. When you have sanded the tip and cleaned up the ferrel use a little bit of lighter fluid to clean both the top of the ferrel and the base of the tip. This makes sure no grease or unwanted material is left there.

[poolqjunkie]

Even with super glue , you should really leave the tip for at least ten mins , it takes a little wile to dry , i usually leave it 1 hour or overnight , if i can , the longer the better , but if your preperation is not correct ie out of line ferrule it will fall off anyway .so , prep well and follow those guides and you will be ok . ps i use the floor as well .

Yeah, you really should leave the tip on a bit longer if you could. You should let the glue fully cured before you shape/trim it, if possible.

[totlxtc]

Off the subject of glue. If you use a scalpel, ONLY use No.10A blades.

No.10 - Surgical blades. Full edge blade from top of curve to base. Believe me from experience that you will cut yourself, part of my thumb now knows that and is no longer there.

No.10A - Precision blade. 25° blade. Perfect for the job. Nice shape and less likely to snap. And if they do its usually at the very tip.

No.11 - Fine precision blade. 15° blade. Very prone to breaking and not the best blade for the job.

No.15 - Surgical blades. Small curved blade near tip. Not too bad for very fine shaping and trimming but you need to know what your doing as they are also prone to snapping.

[steveflanuk]

Yeah, you really should leave the tip on a bit longer if you could. You should let the glue fully cured before you shape/trim it, if possible.

I fully agree. I renewed my tip last night, which has worked a treat using Loctite Super Glue gel.

Gel is definitely easier than the liquid super glue - NEVER use tip cement as it is absolute rubbish.

In my experience, it is best leaving the tip for at least 15 mins to let the glue really hold. Any earlier and it could come away whilst you are shaping it.

From removing my old tip and having a fully-shaped new tip, took me less than an hour last night - and that includes about 20 mins to let the glue cure.

[ADR147]

Off the subject of glue. If you use a scalpel, ONLY use No.10A blades.

No.10 - Surgical blades. Full edge blade from top of curve to base. Believe me from experience that you will cut yourself, part of my thumb now knows that and is no longer there.

No.10A - Precision blade. 25° blade. Perfect for the job. Nice shape and less likely to snap. And if they do its usually at the very tip.

No.11 - Fine precision blade. 15° blade. Very prone to breaking and not the best blade for the job.

No.15 - Surgical blades. Small curved blade near tip. Not too bad for very fine shaping and trimming but you need to know what your doing as they are also prone to snapping.

now we are going into detail - i use a swann morton 10a

[poolqjunkie]

Off the subject of glue. If you use a scalpel, ONLY use No.10A blades.

No.10 - Surgical blades. Full edge blade from top of curve to base. Believe me from experience that you will cut yourself, part of my thumb now knows that and is no longer there.

No.10A - Precision blade. 25° blade. Perfect for the job. Nice shape and less likely to snap. And if they do its usually at the very tip.

No.11 - Fine precision blade. 15° blade. Very prone to breaking and not the best blade for the job.

No.15 - Surgical blades. Small curved blade near tip. Not too bad for very fine shaping and trimming but you need to know what your doing as they are also prone to snapping.

I use some blades made in Sherfield, UK, it is very good. I have like hundreds of them. Usually, I discard one after doing may be 3 tips or so.
They are quite pricey to buy, but really really good quality.
I use them to trim and sometimes shape the tip,too.
I forgot what they are called, they are made to be used with a little tool as a cutter. But I just use the blade on its own.
Some blades are too soft and they bend and chip. I like a stiff and sharp blade for the job. You can also use the blade to check if the ferrule is faced properly before you glue the tip on.

[totlxtc]

May well be the same. Swann Morton is based in Sheffield. I can get a box (10 packs of 5 blades) for under £5 from an old supplier of mine when i used to do exhibition graphics. Should not be too much to post to Canada but customs may well be a pain.