you cant "over oil "a cue, as it takes only what it needs.
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Waxing my cue
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Why do folks fear wax polish such as Mr Sheen etc?
Surely if it's good enough for that 16th century £30k table it's good enough for my £20 cue? Right?
Seriously though, I've just waxed a cue, with decent 'cue shop' wax, that the cue builders use, and it's not really made me take out my sun glasses.
How many times should you wax it, and how long should you leave the wax on for?
I left the last one on for about 2 hours, then rubbed it off, which actually took a bit of effort.
It must be 15 years since I waxed a cue lol.
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Originally Posted by firefrets View PostWhy do folks fear wax polish such as Mr Sheen etc?
Surely if it's good enough for that 16th century £30k table it's good enough for my £20 cue? Right?
Seriously though, I've just waxed a cue, with decent 'cue shop' wax, that the cue builders use, and it's not really made me take out my sun glasses.
How many times should you wax it, and how long should you leave the wax on for?
I left the last one on for about 2 hours, then rubbed it off, which actually took a bit of effort.
It must be 15 years since I waxed a cue lol.
i use boiled linseed on it, give the cue a good rub down first with a barely damp microfibre cloth, then a fully dry one, then using a paper towel pour a small bit on and then rub into the shaft evenly repeating til covered the whole shaft, then a clean one to wipe off any excess, leave it out of the case for 24 hours and repeat without using the barely wet cloth the second time. after the second treating with oil and leaving it to air dry again use a paper towel and gently but not too gently rub up and down the shaft then go over it and buff it up with the microfibre cloth again.
i dont religously do it every 6 months or whatever, only when the cue has started to feel sticky more often than not on shots after wiping down the shaft while playing. sometimes do it once a year, sometimes twice.
have used both boiled and raw before for it and the only real difference i noticed was the boiled seemed to give it a slightly more aged look than raw.
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Cheers Andy.
I'm very fortunate that my best friend Steve tends to tech for me, especially where oiling etc is concerned. It's just always been that way really, as I'm normally happy to let him do it. It's kind of a 'social event' if that makes sense, and he always does a great job.
Today he gave me a pot of wax, so I thought I'd put some on the new (used) cue I was given for free yesterday.
One of my other cues felt a little dry, as I've not taken it out of the case since 2001, so we gave it a little drink, and I left that one with him. We'll normally leave it a few days, possibly adding further coats.
I put my trust entirely in him, and he's not let me down yet. I guess I just pot balls and drink beer.
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Originally Posted by firefrets View PostCheers Andy.
I'm very fortunate that my best friend Steve tends to tech for me, especially where oiling etc is concerned. It's just always been that way really, as I'm normally happy to let him do it. It's kind of a 'social event' if that makes sense, and he always does a great job.
Today he gave me a pot of wax, so I thought I'd put some on the new (used) cue I was given for free yesterday.
One of my other cues felt a little dry, as I've not taken it out of the case since 2001, so we gave it a little drink, and I left that one with him. We'll normally leave it a few days, possibly adding further coats.
I put my trust entirely in him, and he's not let me down yet. I guess I just pot balls and drink beer.
a fiver for a big bottle of linseed oil from B&Q, pack of tesco value kitchen roll, and some micro fibre cloths, will cost you less than a tenner outlay and the bottle of oil should last you years
nb to save worrying about the tip as well, i also take it off and re tip the cue when i oil it....
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Originally Posted by andy carson View Postno probs, just seems some people who send off cues to be refinished dont often know just how easy it is to do it yourself and how cheap it can be!!!
a fiver for a big bottle of linseed oil from B&Q, pack of tesco value kitchen roll, and some micro fibre cloths, will cost you less than a tenner outlay and the bottle of oil should last you years
nb to save worrying about the tip as well, i also take it off and re tip the cue when i oil it....
I'd pay so called techs money to change pickups, or do various other jobs, and now I do everything myself, other than jobs such as re-fretting etc, that need a proper luthier. A little soldering knowledge saves you a fortune.
Cues I never used to bother with so much regarding servicing them.
I'd play with them, and put them back in the case until next time, and that was that. Now my cues must think I've gone all soft on them lol.
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Hi everyone,
Do you think I could apply on my cue this wax:
I saw a man who uses this wax on filmweb video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fV-RI..._order&list=UL
What do you think?
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Using wax or oil depends on which wood your shaft is. Raw linseed oil would be fine to oil the ash while wax suits the maple.A car wax is used on the car surface,cars are painted and varnished,while shafts aren't,so the prescription may not suit on woods,you can you use some kinds of cue wax,that may not cause any problem. For maple shaft,some mates in China also use shellac which can make the maple carry a beautiful golss and looks like amber.
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I am about to start selling my own version of the wax that I have concocted. it is a blend of carnauba, bees, microcrystalline and other secret parts.
Supplied in aluminium tins. If anyone is interested in trying it then I will limit some samples to the first 5 people to reply. Be aware that outside f the U.K i will have to charge for postage.
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