Waxing my cue

[poolqjunkie]

I know a lot of US pool cues shafts are finished with carnuba wax--and no oil is ever applied. Basically, the maple is polished then sealed with a sealant, such as shellac. The shaft is then lightly sanded down. The shaft is then waxed, and burnished. Some players use a piece of leather to burnish their shafts by hand; some have it turned on a lathe.
Shafts prepared and treated this way, from my experience, woudl feel silky smooth but do get sticky over time. The wax applied on the shaft tends to collect all the dirts and sweat and become sticky after a while, especially when it is very humid. Usually, US pool players will use a damp towel or a cleanser to remove the old wax then repeat the process of applying sealant and wax, or sometimes just wax all over again, whenever their shafts get sticky.
I am not sure why they do not use oil, I suspect it is because a lot of US players are obsessed with a snow white shaft and oil tends to change the color of the shaft.

[Jellibeen69]

Please forward me your address.
Thanks
Ellis

[Jellibeen69]

Wax samples are ready

wax samples have now been potted, they have been sent out today.
Will be creating a new thread for the wax, so when its up and ready I will really appreciate reviews and comments. If there are any others members who would like to try a sample, please forward a name and address. There a very limited numbers, so first come first served.
cheers Ellis





http://www.flickr.com/photos/16131392@N06/5567867022/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16131392@N06/5567282545/

[Jellibeen69]

Attention to all sample requests.

One thing I may have forgotten to mention, because of the blended carnauba waxes (hardest and most moisture repellent wax there is) you may find to difficult to apply especially if it is cold, easiest solution to this is dip the application cloth into natural turps and then into the wax itself.
Do not heat directly (naked flame), if heating to soften then it should done only by a double boiler (bain marie) method.
Any other information, please feel free to contact me.
Ellis

[Jellibeen69]

limited samples left.

Amazing amount of requests, there are only a few samples left. first come first served.
Make sure that you send me your name and address.
cheers Ellis

[barlow09]

i would like a sample please

[Jellibeen69]

Sorry all free samples have now been claimed! god the forum members really do like the free stuff!!!!!
Please let me know when they have arrived and also what you think... look forward to hearing from you all...
and to those who were a little late, they will soon be ready to purchase, I will of course make a discount for all forum members.

[Matt-10ant]

What kind oil or wax would give my shaft the darker and aged finish as thats what im wanting my cue to look like.

[Jellibeen69]

are you talking about the colour of the ash or are you talking about the black graining affect?

[Jellibeen69]

if it is just to darken the colour of the ash or maple then NON boiled linseed oil does the job, put it on sparingly, let the wood absorb the oil, once absorbed reapply the oil. Do this until the wood will not accept any more oil.
I like to leave it for a good 24hrs, so that the wood can have a good drink.
Once the oil is not being absorbed, clean of the excess. Leave to dry and buff until silky smooth.
hope this helps.

[martinii]

What kind oil or wax would give my shaft the darker and aged finish as thats what im wanting my cue to look like.

Craftsman finishing wax: http://www.craftsmancues.com/acatalog/info_368.html

[Matt-10ant]

Yes thanks that does help and how would i also get the grain to be more defined and darker.

[Jellibeen69]

there are many threads that have been dedicated to this question about graining. from my personal experience if find that specifically bought grain filler from rustins, and then either use ebony powder from sanding, or a ebony wood die. Mix in small amounts and use a plastic flexible scraper to push the mixture into the grain. You must make sure that the cue is completely stripped to the bear wood though. push the mixture into the grain. It will look a complete mess when you have finished it, but don't worry. Leave for a good 24hrs to cure properly, then sand back the excess, and you find that it brings the grain out beautifully. AS i said there are many threads on this matter, but this is my method.

[Matt-10ant]

Ok then thanks for the advice my cue is going to glovers tomorrow for a complete re-finish so they will make a good job of it im sure.

Thanks Matt

[cally]

there are many threads that have been dedicated to this question about graining. from my personal experience if find that specifically bought grain filler from rustins, and then either use ebony powder from sanding, or a ebony wood die. Mix in small amounts and use a plastic flexible scraper to push the mixture into the grain. You must make sure that the cue is completely stripped to the bear wood though. push the mixture into the grain. It will look a complete mess when you have finished it, but don't worry. Leave for a good 24hrs to cure properly, then sand back the excess, and you find that it brings the grain out beautifully. AS i said there are many threads on this matter, but this is my method.

Hi jelliebean fella, thanks for the wax bud...

Almost impossible to work with though, i found it way too hard, needs a little summat added to make it easier to apply...

I done a little bit of a butt with it, but then i just couldnt do anymore, it's consistency is that of a candle, or even harder than that...

You need to add something that will keep it a little more moist. something like they put in most waxes available, added moisture...dunno what tho...

I even put it on the radiator for a good while and it still a nightmare to apply, really hard stuff.

I know it's not the final product bud, just giving my thoughts on it for ya..

It did start too give a nice finish on the bit i done with it though, after only 1 thin application it was looking quite good, when you sort the consistency out it should be a cracking product...

Thanks Mike...


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