F604903A-0AEE-4CEF-B6EF-EBC4C6DDCEB9.jpeg A Friend of mine bought this cue from a UK cuemaker in a October and there are 2 white marks / patches at the top of the cue . It looks like the oil has worn away . He contacted the cuemaker for advice and he said re-apply linseed oil . Surely this is down to the cuemaker to rectify ? I’m not sure the pictures have come out as clear as when I saw the cue tonight 6C148093-46B3-4790-B076-E25380D276A3.jpeg
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Cue issue
Last edited by Neil Taperell; 19 February 2020, 12:03 AM.Still trying to pot as many balls as i can !Tags: None
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Hi Neil,
Your friend definitely hasn't been using sand paper or suchlike to take the varnish/oil off the cue have they?
Looks a bit suspect from the pictures in the sense that is seems to be the part of the cue people tend to 'doctor' for smoothness.
I imagine even if it was down to the cue maker there are lots of variables they could blame such as where the cue has been stored, cleaning methods used since October etc."just tap it in":snooker:
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Clean off the oil finish with 0000 grade steel wool, clean cue with a cloth lightly dampened in meths, leave ten minutes to dry and apply three coats of danish oil waiting 6/8 hours between coats. Apply danish oil with a lint free cloth and remove the excess straight away with a clean cloth before leaving to dry for the 6/8 hours and then don't use the cue for a week to allow the oil to cure, this is obviously what hasn't been done or he has used raw linseed rather than boiled and as many of us have stated before, raw linseed never dries, you have to use boiled linseed which contains driers. I myself don't use linseed, find it a bit thick and slow drying.
I wouldn't send it back to the cuemaker as he simply might just do the same again for a quick turnaround.
Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair
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Originally Posted by vmax View PostClean off the oil finish with 0000 grade steel wool, clean cue with a cloth lightly dampened in meths, leave ten minutes to dry and apply three coats of danish oil waiting 6/8 hours between coats. Apply danish oil with a lint free cloth and remove the excess straight away with a clean cloth before leaving to dry for the 6/8 hours and then don't use the cue for a week to allow the oil to cure, this is obviously what hasn't been done or he has used raw linseed rather than boiled and as many of us have stated before, raw linseed never dries, you have to use boiled linseed which contains driers. I myself don't use linseed, find it a bit thick and slow drying.
I wouldn't send it back to the cuemaker as he simply might just do the same again for a quick turnaround.
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Originally Posted by kayen147 View Post
cheers vmax, i made the mistake of cleaning my cue with grade steel wool too much that i worn off the oil finish and worse than that : i can feel the emptiness in the grain patterns. how do i fill the grain on the cue before refinish with oil ?
I use activated charcoal mixed with the first coat of oil. It's a very fine dust and fills the grain very well and once the oil cures it's very solid.
It will change the colour of the shaft as it darkens the oil, gives it an antique patina, so if you don't want that you could use regular grain filler mixed with ebony dust or activated charcoal mixed to a fine paste and rubbed into the shaft with a cloth and the excess removed immediately, or you could even paint the shaft black with aerosol blackboard paint, remove when dry with 300 grade sandpaper and the grain is darkened by the paint, some use black shoe polish or a black wax, there are many different ways.
All these different ways will darken the shaft a little bit or a lot as some of the colour will seep into the main wood, but most of all into the grain, even a simple oil finish with nothing added will darken the grain a little bit.
Hope this helps.Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair
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Originally Posted by Neil Taperell View PostIs meths ok to use Vmax ? Would it not dry out the cue? Or is it used sparingly so as not to effect the wood ?
The cloth is dampened, not wet, wet will raise the grain and you'll have to do it again.Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair
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Originally Posted by vmax View Post
The grain isn't below the surface of the wood but is simply softer than the main timber, so a finish with fine particles in it will penetrate into the softer grain more than the other part of the timber. If you can feel the ridges of the grain then the cue wasn't sanded to a smooth enough finish in the first place and I would recomend doing so with 300/500 grade sandpaper, then 0000 steel wool before the final oil finish.
I use activated charcoal mixed with the first coat of oil. It's a very fine dust and fills the grain very well and once the oil cures it's very solid.
It will change the colour of the shaft as it darkens the oil, gives it an antique patina, so if you don't want that you could use regular grain filler mixed with ebony dust or activated charcoal mixed to a fine paste and rubbed into the shaft with a cloth and the excess removed immediately, or you could even paint the shaft black with aerosol blackboard paint, remove when dry with 300 grade sandpaper and the grain is darkened by the paint, some use black shoe polish or a black wax, there are many different ways.
All these different ways will darken the shaft a little bit or a lot as some of the colour will seep into the main wood, but most of all into the grain, even a simple oil finish with nothing added will darken the grain a little bit.
Hope this helps.
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