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Snooker putty between slates

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  • #31
    Ok I see! Well, your table don’t have adjustable muntins! The fitters have just packed wedges off the muntins instead. You could cut off the part sticking out with a multi tool, this would clear you a path for the heating panels and still leave the slate supported in the middle. Ideally though I would get some metal brackets made up that can be adjusted! You’ll have to multi tool the dowels that hold the muntins to the frame, but once they’re cut they should just fall out! Really it’s the kinda job you would tie in with having a cloth change! This way if the slate gaps crack or move you can sort all that out, then fit your new cloth. It’s still possible to do without removing the cloth, but you have to be very careful.

    If you’re handy at welding you can make your own adjustable brackets from some thin metal plate, some M10 nuts and M10 bolts.
    Last edited by Danger Steve; 23 March 2023, 11:19 AM.

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    • #32
      Yes I think I’ll just cut it. I was thinking about just mounting as close as possible but it would ideally need to be cut! I will post up how I get on later!

      thank you for all your help Steve! 😁

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      • #33
        Danger Steve just double checking I’m okay to strip the live and neutral from this cable I’ve bought? Ali's DIY 3 Core Round Black Flex Flexible Cable 3183Y 1.5 mm - 15 metre Cut Length https://amzn.eu/d/hZvNF2U

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        • #34
          Yeah! That’s what I did!

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          • #35
            Danger Steve Happy days mate! I was just overthinking and doubting it there! Hopefully ill get it all sorted tonight! Not too worried about the table falling off level as the fitter will come back and sort all that out for me if needs be! Thanks for your help mate! I will post up some pictures of the panels as I go along!

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            • #36
              Danger Steve a good bit of progress this evening, managed to get all of the board cut to the right length, made them a tiny bit smaller so as they aren’t too tight into the sections! I would imagine the heat will spread through the slate to the very small areas kind of down the blue, pink and black spots, just left a bit there. I noticed on the video from 2017 of fitting the tables at the world championships, when the heaters go on, they’re closer to the cushions, there’s a tiny gap in the middle! So I’m not too concerned! Got one panel up and running and electrocuted myself just the once! Touched a live wire 🥴! Hopefully tomorrow I’ll get the other 5 done and mounted and jobs a goodun!

              https://ibb.co/QkHG5K1
              https://ibb.co/3vGhVyb

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              • #37
                Just had the Hotwire system fitted to my table on Monday ,been doing a bit of experimenting over the last few days with the room heaters v table heaters here’s what I’ve found do far . Both electric wall heaters were set at 23 degrees to keep the room at roughly 20 degrees ,normal winter spring conditions ,set the table Hotwire system at 35 degrees and left it on 24 hours ,room too warm the table acts like a massive radiator,knocked wall heaters down to 18.5 degrees ,this cooled the room down obviously,but still pleasant temperature . Turned on table heaters 90 mins before play ,room temperature went up to 20 degrees eventually with table playing very nice and wall heaters on low .Feeling the inner frame of the table and it is not warm or hot so no problem with warping like with tube heaters ,I’m going to get one of those app timer plugs so I can get table to come on if I’m away somewhere .What I will say is looking at some of those pictures with small oil filled radiators ,I tried that two years ago had 3 small ones and the electric bill went though the roof ,I could have bought 5 Hotwire systems over 3 months as the bills were horrendous,I nearly got kicked out ,most of that oil heat is wasted anyway ,don’t do it . So far I think Hotwire set at around 33 degrees is about right I reckon for my room and table ,remember everyone’s set up is different but you don’t need it hot and it will help with room temperature too .

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                • #38
                  Hopefully you won't get too big a jump in your electric bills as you were heating the room that way any way.
                  This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
                  https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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                  • #39
                    Excuse my possible ignorance, but the reason to iron the cloth before playing is to remove moisture rather than smooth out any creases or flatten the nap.
                    Back in the day with SC balls I used to place them on the radiator in the snooker room half an hour prior to playing a league match, table brushed and ironed beforehand, does anyone do this with Aramith phenolic resin balls or will that make them even worse, after all they are in contact with the cloth and maybe this is the reason why table heaters are used in the pro game, simply to keep the balls warm ?
                    Speak up, you've got to speak up against the madness, you've got speak your mind if you dare
                    but don't try to get yourself elected, for if you do you'll have to cut your hair

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                    • #40
                      From what I’ve learnt from having my table, brushing and ironing is a general maintenance job!? Brush and nap the cloth to remove chalk and finger marks, then iron to flatten the nap back down.

                      Table heating helps keep moisture out of the cloth by raising the temperature of the slate, which is naturally a cold stone material and attracts & stores moisture. The cloth absorbs the moisture from the air and the slates, so adding the heaters keeps everything dry which then = a faster playing surface. I don’t believe the heater have to be stupid hot! Just warm enough to keep the cloth feeling dry when you run your hand over it.

                      The only issues I notice with the Amarith balls are when I used the triangle chalk! Had lots of kicks, swapped to Taom and kicks have almost been eliminated. The other issue was if I hadn’t cleaned the balls for a while, I would get dull contacts, especially on slower run through shots. If you keep them squeaky clean they play great!

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                      • #41
                        If your clothes are damp ironing them won't dry them, same as a cloth on a snooker table. Putting clothes on a radiator will dry them, that's what the heaters act like.
                        This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
                        https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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                        • #42
                          Danger Steve. All up and running since yesterday! I seen that the pro tables are set to 21-23 degrees so that’s what I’m aiming for. Just not sure on where to install the thermostat probe. I have it touching the slate I think. When I have my app set to 16, the table is at 21 roughly. It isn’t a big issue but would like to have it properly mounted so as I can properly read the temperature of the table!

                          loving the system so far! Glad I did it myself, at least I know how to do it if I ever need to upgrade down the line! Pulls about 990w currently which is very good too!

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                          • #43
                            Thank you for all your help mate! Really appreciate it

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                            • #44
                              Originally Posted by jamiemca44 View Post
                              Danger Steve. All up and running since yesterday! I seen that the pro tables are set to 21-23 degrees so that’s what I’m aiming for. Just not sure on where to install the thermostat probe. I have it touching the slate I think. When I have my app set to 16, the table is at 21 roughly. It isn’t a big issue but would like to have it properly mounted so as I can properly read the temperature of the table!

                              loving the system so far! Glad I did it myself, at least I know how to do it if I ever need to upgrade down the line! Pulls about 990w currently which is very good too!
                              There should be a gap above the two crossmembers that support the middle legs. I position the probe in there and jam it upto the slate with a wedge of the insulation board!

                              It’s hard to say exactly what temperature to set your thermostat too! It all depends on the position of the probe! So each table might be slightly different? Once you have it so the bed of the cloth feels warm to the touch, but not too warm! Then that is roughly the right temperature, so whatever the thermostat is telling you, stick to that! You can play around adjusting it up and down until you’re happy.

                              Happy to help

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                              • #45
                                Danger Steve going to take a look at it today!

                                Do you think it’s necessary to have it running constantly at a bit of a lower temp?

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