Star table corner pocket templates.

[bigbreaksnooker]

I recently discovered that the standard templates for corner pockets are completely useless on a Star table. Personally I prefer the original templates. It makes no sense to me why they have to have a different angle entering their corners. The weird thing is the center pocket templates work fine. You would imagine that the design of the entrance into a corner pocket should be identical on all tables. The only difference should be the width at the slate drop. The angle of the cushion cut on the Star table appears to start earlier down the rail than a normal table. I would appreciate any advise or insight into this topic.

[mikee]

There are loads of topics on this subject on the forum ,Just to clarify one thing ,Star supply tables at present and like any other company that has done so before they don’t decide the pocket cut ,the WPBSA do .There is no such thing as a normal table pocket template and the templates differ from a normal wooden rail to a steel block table .Slate fall and undercut on the rubber have more of a bearing on playability of a table than just pocket size .The official pocket size template has been the same since 1991 /1992 season .Another thing to remember is that the tv tables are using new cloths every 3 days which makes the pocket accept the ball easier ,you fit WPBSA template pocket templates to a home or club table then after time the table will play tougher than what you see on tv due to cloth wear .People get obsessed about tv tables and want their club/ home table to be the same ,which is nigh on impossible long term .Go and watch any of the top 16 boys doing exhibitions at clubs or one off venues ,they can play on anything and knock tons in on most half decent tables ,they don’t really care what the pocket cut is as their game is far superior to even the top league players anywhere .

[bigbreaksnooker]

I understand that because the Star table is deemed a professional level table because the fall in the corner pockets are set further into the pocket opening unlike typical club table. I just don't understand why they could not also use the same angled entry cut of regular tables. At the very least they could adjust there steel block cushions to allow for the arc into the corners being the same as others. As I cannot source a Star template for the corners currently I will have to make my own. In order to have a consistent arc into the corner pockets on the Star table and having the width across at the fall at 3.5 inches one has to start a 5 inch arc radius five inches down and away from the steel block ends. Having the pockets any smaller just means that you adjust starting point for arc radius.

[mikee]

Your saying that the curve of the pocket opening begins further up the cushion than on any other table ,no it doesn’t .I’m not sure what your on about with arc radius ,the pocket opening on the WPBSA templates at the fall is slightly under 3.5 inches .I have a template copy set and I can assure you there not that easy ,also most modern steel cushions can be cut to any template ,World snooker don’t release their pocket templates to the public ,but it’s not that hard to get a set cut out from someone ,plenty of people have them .
What table do you play on
what are the pockets like
is it a steel block
why are you bothered about it ,are you turning pro soon

[maryfield]

3.5 inch is not the width at the fall. It’s closer to 3.25 inches.

[itsnoteasy]

Ours are 83/84mm at the fall don't know exactly what that is in inches 3 1/3 I think. Like mikee, I'm not very sure what you are on about with the arc etc. Having no undercut affects how the pocket plays tightness wise a lot.

[bigbreaksnooker]

I started to recover and repair snooker tables 4 years ago due to a void in my local area. As I am an avid fan and active player who cared about the quality of the table fitting I decided in order to get the quality finish I needed to do it myself. This is my first time recovering a star table with new rubber. The center pocket templates I have work perfectly on the Star but the corner pocket templates do not. Does anyone here have access to drawings of the templates to size?

[mikee]

Geoff Large and Maryfield that are on this forum may be able to help if they reply to your question,both of them are proper experienced table fitters that are trained with decades of experience .Not really sure what’s so special about templating a Star table .

[Cue crafty]

I do really like your point about about the top 16 and exhibitions Mikee, it's so true and many videos on YouTube of Ronnie making 147's on decent old club tables. The pocket has an entry, if you find the centre or pretty close the ball goes in....

I appreciate the OP here is just trying to get things right & proper but sometimes it's easy to lose sight of what's actually important and for me that's a nice playing surface and consistent cushion bounce. Of course I want the pockets to be quality but don't really care about the cut.

When we were kids half a dozen of us had 6x3 tables, and the quality between them was very different, we take turns round each others houses and it was always good fun. Recently I've drawn on that memory again when playing in the league matches some of the tables are crap but when I remember playing on my mate Jim's table that used to roll off so much you had to aim 3" away from the pocket! It makes me smile and think, well, what is the best I can do on this table, instead of moaning about it being crap....

Enjoy the game! 😊👊

[mikee]

That’s the thing cue crafty ,here’s an example ,Mark Williams came down our way for an exhibition a few months ago ,the club he came to had a nice Aristracrat table that had just been recovered .Now due to many people going to the exhibition the game took place on table 2 which is an old table but more people could get round in that area to watch .I think Williams had at least 4 centuries and just missed out on a 147 he never lost a frame all night ,I’m pretty sure he never complained about pocket size or radius or whatever ,he just got on with it and played his game . .So many wannabes think if they play on a competition Star table with heaters and slick cloth and a hand made two grand cue their going to be brilliant Most people that complain about pockets , big bounces , slow tables etc can’t even knock in a 50 break .

[DeanH]

Thread moved to Tables sub-forum, that may attract the attention of the fitters

[Danger Steve]

Try these tech drawings and make your own pocket templates, that’s what I did


https://poolroomsupplies.com.au/how-...ubber-bumpers/

Not sure what Mikee is referring to with a different template for steel cushions? As far as I’m aware from my own experience the temples is the same for wood or steel block. The playing surface and pockets, rubbers etc are the same size no matter the cushion.

Assuming you have the existing blocks in place on the wood cushion or the steel cushion (depending on the table) the process is the same. Glue on your new rubber flush with the top of the block, bend the rubber around the corner and put a temporary staple into the block to hold it in place. Some fitters put small cuts into the face of the rubber that will later be cut away, this helps the rubber bend to the shape of the block. Now fit all your cushions and get them lined up visually so they are even each side of the slate fall. Now place your pocket template on top of the cushion and again visually line it up, mark the outline onto rubber, then start cutting away the surplus. Cut all the pockets so the template slots in with a very small but even gap (allowing for cloth). Remove the cushions, shape the nose of the rubber into the back of the cushion as required, then fit your new cushion cloth and re-fit your cushions! Job done!

[bigbreaksnooker]

Mikee, or anyone elso online here, can someone share a printout of the pocket cut for the star table? My email is bigbreaksnookerandpool@gmail.com. Much appreciated!

[Danger Steve]

Anyone else ever get the feeling like they’re talking to themselves?