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  • L shaped snooker room

    I am trying to design an L shaped snooker room to accomodate 2 tables.

    We all know that a snooker room needs to be 22' x 16' minimum. I have that easily in 1 arm of the L. So take that as read.

    The other arm will have table #2 at 90 degrees to #1. But I am fairly confident that that second arm of the room need be only 17' x 16' as it can "share" 5' playing space with table #1.

    Does anybody have any thoughts on this subject please?
    王可

  • #2
    You are correct.

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    • #3
      Originally Posted by philip in china View Post
      I am trying to design an L shaped snooker room to accomodate 2 tables.

      We all know that a snooker room needs to be 22' x 16' minimum. I have that easily in 1 arm of the L. So take that as read.

      The other arm will have table #2 at 90 degrees to #1. But I am fairly confident that that second arm of the room need be only 17' x 16' as it can "share" 5' playing space with table #1.

      Does anybody have any thoughts on this subject please?
      Something like this..


      With 5' clearance at the end and side of each table and sharing the 5' clearance between the two.. should work ok I reckon.
      "Do unto others 20% better than you would expect them to do unto you, to correct for subjective error"
      - Linus Pauling

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      • #4
        Originally Posted by nrage View Post
        Something like this..


        With 5' clearance at the end and side of each table and sharing the 5' clearance between the two.. should work ok I reckon.
        I have been out of school for many years but I always thought that 16+17=33
        Up the TSF! :snooker:

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        • #5
          Originally Posted by DeanH View Post
          I have been out of school for many years but I always thought that 16+17=33
          LOL.. Doh, I just copy/pasted that length in there!

          Thanks for the correction.
          "Do unto others 20% better than you would expect them to do unto you, to correct for subjective error"
          - Linus Pauling

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          • #6
            My arithmetic can never be trusted. If I tell you I am a Chartered Accountant you will sympathise!

            I think it should work well. All part of my cunning master plan.
            王可

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            • #7
              Originally Posted by philip in china View Post
              My arithmetic can never be trusted. If I tell you I am a Chartered Accountant you will sympathise!

              I think it should work well. All part of my cunning master plan.
              Chartered Accountant... oh no, and I was just starting to like you!

              Remember, that this is a minimum so if you can go bigger, the better (as with most things in life )

              You may want to have the baulk ends at the ends where they are closest, so most play is not interferred. Just a thought.
              Don't forget photos if this comes off.
              All the best
              DeanH
              Up the TSF! :snooker:

              Comment


              • #8
                Not worth a new thread

                I suspect the answer to this question will be fairly simple (and probably delivered by Geoff) so I have just tagged it onto the back of my original thread.

                Do tables ever wear out? Or should I say will an existing table ever eventually wear out? Might the reclothing over decades destroy the wood or anything of the sort? It just occurred to me to ask. I have never heard of one giving up the ghost.
                王可

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                • #9
                  if your any sort of accountant then I am sure you will be able to make them fit in any numbers!

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                  • #10
                    Through years of use and multiple recovers the cushion blocks will perish through repeated stapling especially at the curve of the pockets. This can be remedied by replacing the cushion blocks and re-rubbering. So in response to the question you won`t wear the table out if remedial works are undertaken.

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                    • #11
                      Thank you.
                      王可

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                      • #12
                        To drag up my own thread again actually the L shaped room might not be used in which case I need soemwhere 22' x 27' if I am not mistaken. Do I actually need 5' between tables? You don't cue at table height so couldn't some of the action be above the other table?

                        Would put them in position 69 I suppose so as to keep the action separated. Would it all be too cramped? I need help guys, come on.
                        王可

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                        • #13
                          Ideally the back foot is below the grip at address, position. So, the players backside will likely be further away from the table, than the grip hand, which may be at the end of a 57-58 inch cue. That's 4' 10 inches from tip to grip, subtract a bit for the tip being over the rail, add a bit for the players backside and you get pretty much 5 foot. I've played with guys who are practically sitting on the next table when playing shots off the rails.

                          .. all things considered the more space you can get the better. 5 foot should probably be considered the minimum IMO.
                          "Do unto others 20% better than you would expect them to do unto you, to correct for subjective error"
                          - Linus Pauling

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                          • #14
                            Yeah in our club there are 4 tables just that little bit closer together than the others, and you can be sure 1 or 2 shots crop up where your back leg is hard up against the next table, just ruins your shot completely

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                            • #15
                              Having looked at a mock up of it they look far too close as well so I will do it a different way and make sure they are at least 5' apart. Thanks as always.
                              王可

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