Match cloths

[bricktip]

philip:

I've found the 6811, as long as it's cleaned and blocked regularly actually plays better than a worn #10 plus the nap will last longer. Also the #10 is a real b*tch to stretch and remember the pros only use it for a couple of days and then replace it in their tournaments. Both money and playability-wise 6811 is definitely the way to go.

I had a 6811 on my table and then when it wore out (5 years, practicing and coaching at least 4hrs every day) I replaced it with one of those 'nearly new' #10 cloths and I'm a little disappointed with the #10 which has been on the table for about 6 months now. I tried to stretch it a bit but as it was used there was nothing to grab onto and I gave the project up after stretching it about 1" to get the black spot moved a bit.

I did buy a Hainsworth 'Precision' as an experiment but haven't had it fitted yet. It's 30% nylon and 20oz so it's thin and fast and Hainsworth (of course) says the wear is the same as 6811 gold.

I would recommend you go for the 6811 gold and use a water-based white marker as you'll likely have to stretch the cloth after about a year or so in your holiday facility and you can remove the old marks with acetone easily.

Terry

How do you go about stretching your cloth Terry? My 6811 needs stretching and it would be helpful to know the procedure.

[Terry Davidson]

bricktip:

I would definitely NOT recommend you try and do this yourself. Quite a while back I had the opportunity to work as a helper to a table fitter while he did a room with 24 tables and I did learn a bit about recovering, however I'm still not comfortable with trying to do cushions.

And even with my limitied experience I couldn't even stretch my own #10.

It takes some specialized tools but really specialized knowledge and experience and I would highly recommend you try and get an experienced table fitter like Geoff Large on here who maybe can fit you into a slot if he happens to be near your area. I realize it will cost more than if you did it yourself, but the chances of really screwing it up are fairly high and not worth the risk in my opinion

Terry

[throtts]

Agree, Terry..

You better of getting a fitter to do it, bricktip.. If you make a mess doing it, it would not surprise if they stick a bit more on the quote to rectify it, even though there would be no extra work..

Save and stop a headache..

[philip in china]

Which is great if your table is somewhere where snooker fitters are readily available.

Bricktip's isn't and neither is mine.

Agree, Terry..

You better of getting a fitter to do it, bricktip.. If you make a mess doing it, it would not surprise if they stick a bit more on the quote to rectify it, even though there would be no extra work..

Save and stop a headache..

[bricktip]

Please give me more details as to why it shouldn't be attempted. Why couldn't you manage it Terry?

[Terry Davidson]

bricktip:

I didn't realize you weren't in the UK since the flags are still not working, sorry about that.

Basically, this #10 I have, since it was used, had nothing I could get a grip on in order to pull it and I don't have the special tool my table fitter had (a pair of vice-grips with flat steel plates welded to the jaws) in order to give it a good pull. I had to use a pair of vice grips with a couple of pieces of flat wood and even then I couldn't stretch this #10 very much because of course I had to pull with one hand and use my stapler with the other.

Stretching any cloth is definitely a 2-man job and you have to know what you're doing. Basically, take the pockets and cushions off, laying the cushions opposite where they normally fit so you don't mix them up (they're usually numbered anyway). Then remove all the tacks or staples all around the table with the exception of inside the pockets. Leave them there for a bit. It would be a wise idea to remove the cloth and wipe down the slates to remove the chalk dust and check for any ridges along the slate joins.

Next, on the baulk end pull the loose cloth down about 1" or so past the old tack holes or staple holes and re-affix about 3' or so in the middle of the cushion, placing your tacks or staples about 3" apart. Then go to the top end and pull (very carefully so you don't rip it) as tight as you can (you''ll end up with burn marks on your knuckles) and have your helper tack or staple the middle 3' or so.

Repeat this procedure with the sides of the table for each cushion. Pull the cloth about 1" past the old holes and then tack and then go to the other side and stretch as much as you can, but be VERY careful here and stay away from the pockets.

Once you have that done then take the tacks out of the pockets and finish stretching the cloth, always balancing what you do on one side by going to the other opposite side or end and stretching. Now comes the hard part, getting the pockets stretched and tacked without having any wrinkles. This is the hardest of all and if you're not careful you will rip the cloth as there will already be some cuts in it, but you have to pull them as tight as you can. Do a baulk pocket first and then do the diagonally opposite top pocket. Once you've completely stretched everything put the cushions back on the table but don't tighten them down until you line up the middle pockets with the fall of the slate for the middle pockets. (Remember to put the pockets into the rails before affixing them to the sides of the slate and also find the spots for the rail bolts in the side of the slate and make a small cut for the rail bolts.)

Then check your corner pocket to make sure they are also correct as far as width of opening goes and then re-assemble the table.

This is just a quick narrative and I'm absolutely certain Geoff Large is screaming to himself, but I've never claimed to be a table fitter and I respect those who can do it correctly and have the proper set of tools to do it. (For instance, removing the tacks or staples is a bitch of a job and for an old guy like me I have to take frequent breaks as you're down on the floor for most of this). I also recommend you get extra bright lighting since the table lights will be bright and be blinding you down underneath the table.

If you do not have template drawings I can send you some mechanical drawings of either the B&SCC templates (recommended) or else the WPBSA templates, which are slightly bigger.

But think carefully before you do this and if you can get a fitter to your location I would still recommend you do that unless you feel you are very good at doing things like this.

Terry

[bricktip]

Perhaps i should try typing in broken English so it's more obvious where i'm not located

Anyway, thanks for all that Terry. It's a big help.

For your information, I'm already comfortable doing the things like bolting the cushions, pocket plates, lining up and everything, as i've done it before. It's the general procedure of the cloth stretch that i needed to know about, and you're description is a big help. I was planning to check the slate joints while i'm at it, as you mentioned. But, that will need the cloth right off i would think.

I won't need them now, but it might be useful to have those templates that you mention. Thanks for offering.

[philip in china]

Couldn't you check the slate joints with the middle pockets still in place?

Perhaps i should try typing in broken English so it's more obvious where i'm not located

Anyway, thanks for all that Terry. It's a big help.

For your information, I'm already comfortable doing the things like bolting the cushions, pocket plates, lining up and everything, as i've done it before. It's the general procedure of the cloth stretch that i needed to know about, and you're description is a big help. I was planning to check the slate joints while i'm at it, as you mentioned. But, that will need the cloth right off i would think.

I won't need them now, but it might be useful to have those templates that you mention. Thanks for offering.

[bricktip]

Couldn't you check the slate joints with the middle pockets still in place?

To be honest Phil, that's how i imagined doing it before hearing Terry's advice. Leave the middles attached and fold the cloth over the other end of the table, check the slates and then do the same the other end. Could be a bit messy though, if there is any filling/sanding involved.

I've been thinking about this job for some time now, so when i do actually do it, i should be prepared as much as i can be.