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  • #16
    See, that is exactly what I would be scared of.
    Get a bunch of first timers playing on it, playing screw on every shot, and eventually ripping it.

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    • #17
      Does a No.10 need stretching after 9 months/year. Can it even be stretched, its so thin.

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      • #18
        Maintaining the table

        You can generally pick up an ex-tournament cloth on eBay with 6811 tournament cushion cloth for around £160... Which is slightly cheaper than a new 6811 tournament.

        With regards the ripping of the cloth, it's unusual for that to happen but if it happens on one, its likely to happen on them all.

        As for stretching, if you get a good table fitter who can fit it tight, I would doubt you would need a re-stretch. I'm by no means a trained billiard fitter, but take care at what I do when fitting the cloth, and I haven't need to re-stretch any of our cloths.

        As for its thickness, I wouldn't worry. I've ripped smart cloth, and 6811 tournament when stretching (quick reactions stopped the cloth being scrapped but nearly change of underwear time lol) but never ripped a no.10. They are a strong cloth.

        As for wear, you have a knock on effect. The faster the cloth, the less power needed to hit the cue ball. The less power leads to less heat build up through friction. Less friction means less cloth burn. ie, around the pockets, I've seen slower cloths show signs of 'tracks' before a fast no.10.

        And remember, clean balls means less friction and will also make the table seem faster

        Others may have different views, but this is from my own experience, and I'm a bit picky when it comes to getting the best conditions lol

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        • #19
          Maintaining the table

          Oh, and regarding the re-stretch... theoretically, this is what you are doing with an ex-tournament cloth as it has already been fitted for a tournament somewhere

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          • #20
            Very helpful, thanks.

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            • #21
              Maintaining the table

              On a final note, I also find that brushing the crap off a finer cloth takes a lot less effort, so your maintenance of the table will be easier.

              And as these cloths are already marked, I use a light green marker to colour over the existing markings and using a bit of spare cloth, rubbing in the direction of the nap to blend it in. Doesn't totally get rid of the markings, but makes them less noticeable, then you can remark using a tippex pen for the nice clean white lines for the professional look

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              • #22
                Good advice
                Originally Posted by jarcher View Post
                On a final note, I also find that brushing the crap off a finer cloth takes a lot less effort, so your maintenance of the table will be easier.

                And as these cloths are already marked, I use a light green marker to colour over the existing markings and using a bit of spare cloth, rubbing in the direction of the nap to blend it in. Doesn't totally get rid of the markings, but makes them less noticeable, then you can remark using a tippex pen for the nice clean white lines for the professional look
                王可

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                • #23
                  Originally Posted by jarcher View Post

                  As for stretching, if you get a good table fitter who can fit it tight, I would doubt you would need a re-stretch. I'm by no means a trained billiard fitter, but take care at what I do when fitting the cloth, and I haven't need to re-stretch any of our cloths.
                  Just a few pointers on why we stretch cloths and recommend it .

                  Re-stretching is down to two things not just slackening off of the cloth which all cloths will do in time , there is no way a cloth will remain as tight as you first fit it even on Strachan no10 which has the least stretch of any cloth , Areas of wear especialy track marks in the corner pockets is the main reason why we stretch cloth , by moveing the area of track marks the ball has a fresh part of the cloth to roll over into the pocket and by stretching the real bad part of the track mark is pulled down the pocket slate fall , playing without spots , especialy the pink and black will wear a dip into the cloth , this is also slightly moved on a re-stretch .

                  HAINSWORTH SMART and Strachan 6811 should require a stretch around 9months to year if you are expecting 24 months or more out of it , to me there is no differance in the smart and the 6811 wear , or thickness , some say the smart is faster , but I have also heard players say the 6811 is faster . I have one club that prefers smart but many clubs that prefer 6811. this may be down to TV Brand spotting on the star and riley tables where the STRACHAN logo is printed on the side cushion panel , to be realy honest I think there is not much differance in smart and 6811 wear or playing wise , it's like splitting hair trying to say one is better than the other .

                  Hainsworth MATCH or strachan no10 would prob not require a stretch due to the thin cloth not expected to last as long as 6811 or smart . life expectancy for match and no10 is 6 to 12 months .

                  a Stretched 6811 or smart after 12 months wear would be like playing on a new match or no 10 or as close to it as possible .

                  Another reason to stretch a longer lasting cloth is to shake all the chalk dust out of it and clean the slates off , you will be amazed at some tables having compacted slate dust at the end of the table just under the end cushions , this requires sanding off the slate as balls tend to roll off and snake as they slow down on it , also this can make the ball jump off the end cushions .

                  The worst thing you can do to a table if you are planning to have it re-stretched is to put water anywhere near the bed cloth , as this will shrink the cloth and prevent stretching of the areas of wear out of the pocket area , it will also send the cloth like cardboard if there is a lot of chalk dust in there , water and chalk dust act like a paste when they mix together , I know some people spray water over the cloth in a fine mist or damp the blocker to try and get the cloth greener , but this is a waste of time as soon as the water has dried out the cloth has gone back to it's faded colour .
                  Also Vacuming of the cloth in an attempt to get the chalk dust out is also a risky practice , as you may pull filler out of the slate joints .

                  One thing I will point out is , that differant batches of cloth can play differant , cloth thats made in the summer months to cloth made in the winter months can play totaly differant . even thouh it is the same grade , I have also noted as a fitter that the manufacturers are makeing all grades of cloth thinner , I did write to one of the manufacturers asking why a cloth cushion retaining slip that was tight on it's last recover , suddenly is loose on the new cloth supplied , I am still awaiting an explanation , but I am sure it is down to having more nap shaved off on production therefore making the cloth thinner and faster .
                  Last edited by Geoff Large; 24 November 2012, 12:23 AM.
                  [/SIGPIC]http://www.gclbilliards.com

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                  • #24
                    I agree Geoff one roll of 6811 Tournament that came in around April i fitted around differant clubs eg Golf clubs,WMC and so on i have noticed that the nap is a lot thicker on this particular roll than on others we have had since or before i didnt notice at the time as when you put it on the finish is pretty much the same but as the cloth wears and the nap gets roughed up you can tell.

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                    • #25
                      Maintaining the table

                      Geoff / Salty... If this is the case, do you find the finish on the cloth is better from a summer or winter roll?

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                      • #26
                        Originally Posted by Geoff Large View Post
                        Just a few pointers on why we stretch cloths and recommend it .
                        Another reason to stretch a longer lasting cloth is to shake all the chalk dust out of it and clean the slates off , you will be amazed at some tables having compacted slate dust at the end of the table just under the end cushions , this requires sanding off the slate as balls tend to roll off and snake as they slow down on it , also this can make the ball jump off the end cushions .
                        I have always wondered why on some tables the balls can jump off the end cushions. Geoff, you are the king.

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                        • #27
                          Originally Posted by jarcher View Post
                          Geoff / Salty... If this is the case, do you find the finish on the cloth is better from a summer or winter roll?
                          All cloth varies roll to roll very slightly,for instance the cloths im fitting off this roll have a very short sharp nap and the cloth really has a nice shine to it and seems to be playing really fast in the feedback i have had off players

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