Hi All ! I have not long moved into my new house and have a detached double garage which has an internal size of 6m x 6m but walls have still to be sheeted so will be slightly smaller time this is done. My plan was originally to get a 10 x 5 ft table put in to allow room for cuing with a full size cue all around the table from tight on the cushion and also a bit easier to play on when friends come over for a game and a few beers. I am now thinking perhaps it is maybe worth going for a full size table and just having the black end of the table a bit closer to wall as for all the times you will be playing shots up the table from tight on the black cushion is not very often really and a smaller cue could be used for these shots, I personally feel positioning the table this way would not hamper too many shots but perhaps I am overlooking other issues? Any advice or help would be much appreciated as I form want to make the wrong decision and end up regretting it!!
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10ft or 12ft dilemma!
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10ft or 12ft dilemma!
it has been said by others that went for a 10ft that they regret the decision as the feel and play is different to a 12ft.
and also one said (on Geoff Large's site) that his friends stopped coming round because of the difference.
If you have the space and only the rare tight square cushions shots with be affected, go LARGEUp the TSF! :snooker:
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Thanks for that dean ! I would say a good 60 - 70% of time will be just solo practice on the table so this is what has made me start thinking that going large is the way forward!" and for those of you who are watching in black and white, the pink is next to the green. "
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Will do dean! Hoping to get the roof sheeted over next month or so then I need to save up to get a door cut into the side of the garage for access as sheeting over garage doors at front. Once that's done its full steam ahead !" and for those of you who are watching in black and white, the pink is next to the green. "
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There is no doubt you can't beat a full size table in a full size room! You really don't have to go for "second best" though. All you need is a decent short cue for those very few shots where you can't cue properly and they really are very few.
I am in the position of owning both sizes and I would always say go for the bigger one.
If you are buying a used table, economics comes into the equation as well. You will get a second hand 12' table a lot more easily and cheaper than a 10'. So few people have space for a 12' so the demand isn't there!王可
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Cant agree with the above, guys. Playing on a full size in a room of around 20 foot is not big enough for matchplay snooker and using short cues just does not do it, imo. Around the pink and black for practice is okay so the playing room will be just that, a practice room. You do need at least 5 foot all around a full size table.JP Majestic
3/4
57"
17oz
9.5mm Elk
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how about going to your friendly local snooker club () with a friend, tape measure and masking tape; measure out the size you will have and see how restricting it is. Your friend can act as the wall behind you
That will clearly show what you will have to play with and you can judge for yourself if you will accept a restriction on space or go for the smaller table.
As I was discussing your dilemma last night with a mate, it is all well and good to chat and try to visualise but there is nothing better than seeing for real what you have and have not.
Let us know how you get onLast edited by DeanH; 3 December 2015, 09:15 AM.Up the TSF! :snooker:
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Hi Dean,
My buddy has a games room ( yes, a full size table in it ), its about 20 foot in length and around 18 1/2 foot in width. I will measure exactly tonight.
The width is awesome, loads of room, you can stand back and really inspect the shot before execution.
The length is a pain in the arse though, when safety is involved in a frame playing from the bulk cush is a no no, just to cramped and using a 48" cue off the cush is rubbish too. He is maybe going to extend the build. It only needs the wall pushed out 2 flaming foot, but the cost is around 6 to 7 k, yikes. I said to him, if your going to do it just go out at least 4 foot because you may as well due to the cost. Problem though is , you have to watch building regs on overall volume, which risk the chance of getting some snotty neighbour ringing up regs and complaining.
Having said the above, and this is it for craig, he would still never have gone for a 10 foot table.
So, 20 length is no good for proper matchplay snooker but okay for break building practice.Last edited by throtts; 3 December 2015, 09:27 AM.JP Majestic
3/4
57"
17oz
9.5mm Elk
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Thanks guys for all your comments it's much appreciated and very interesting to hear. I'm still swaying more towards getting a full size table as I am not planning to have the table central in terms of length so only really going to massively affect shots straight up the table from the black cushion which is not ideal but something I may just have to live with. I know it's not fit for match play snooker but it's mostly for practice and should be able to play most shots. Cheers again !!" and for those of you who are watching in black and white, the pink is next to the green. "
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Okay, its central to his room,, exactly so. If he moves it up towards the black ball wall then cueing would be better playing from the bulk cush but there is still those safety shots from black cush, and he would have to move his light above the table too. We talked about turning the table across ways if you understand what I mean, that would effect only the cue ball being tight to two of the corner pockets each end and they are limited somewhat shots. He did a drawing of this on that graph paper that planners use and it did seem to prove it would be okay, other than the table going across ways the room which did look odd.
I measure tonight to get the min needed for playing on a full size.JP Majestic
3/4
57"
17oz
9.5mm Elk
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I had a 10' in a 20' x 16' room. It was OK but I found it frustrating because practising on it didn't prepare me for playing a match on a full size table. Given my time again I'd go for a full size. It's worth looking at the thread by tbones who has a full size in a room that is 22' x 11'! I'd centre it in the room rather than trying to offset it. I had a 6' once and had to use a short cue for some shots but it doesn't happen as often as you think. And of course whenever you're practising it really doesn't matter at all.
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Whilst agreeing with the other people posting I think we are getting a bit carried away. The basic problem, which has cropped up in several threads is summed up as: "I have a very large room but it is not quite big enough to accomodate a full size table with 5' all round. What should I do?"
Assuming that moving house or extending the room are not options then there is a choice:
1. Get a smaller table.
Advantages:
You will be able to cue properly all round the table.
Disadvantages:
You are not getting the full 12' effect. Although practice on a 10' table is very useful it is no substitute for a full size table if you are a serious player.
2. Get a full size table but realise that there might be 1 end where you are going to have to use a short cue.
Advantages:
You have got a 12' table. Most of your play will be absolutely fine.
12' tables are very readily available at extremely good prices.
Disadvantages:
The short cue is not ideal for that small number of shots where it is necessary.
The choice is a personal decision for the owner to make. There must be a compromise one way or the other but either choice is better than no table. Having a table at home which you can use any time you want is a tremendous experience and will help your game.王可
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