Do I need to keep room heated

[bricktip]

the biggest problem you will have is Humidity and condensation when heating cold rooms that is why constant heat is better under the table , slates will sweat condensation if heating up from cold , this will in turn damp the cloth .

I had a set of slates on my van the other day , and when putting the table up in a warm room , the slates started to sweat out the dampness of being stored on a van for two days between a house move .
you will be amazed at how much dampness comes out of them , when heating the slate up from cold .

This makes me wonder if simply insulating the underside of the slates will help, without additional heating tubes. I know that plumbing can sweat and cause condensation (cold water running through pipes and a warm room) so it could be the same with slates... perhaps not obvious dripping but the slates are very cold to the touch unless they have heating right up close.

I have underfloor heating, but have stopped covering the table for a few months thinking that the table can sweat under the cover (obviously not a God cover). It does seem drier as a result and quicker.... especially the cushions.

[Markus0101]

I'm looking to invest in probably 2 oil heaters to go under the table, either side. I'm told electric heaters make the slates sweat by a few friends. Is this accurate?

[Geoff Large]

I'm looking to invest in probably 2 oil heaters to go under the table, either side. I'm told electric heaters make the slates sweat by a few friends. Is this accurate?

only if they absorb cold air in the night time and when you switch on any type of heat they will sweat , even the oil filled rads will make them sweat if they have absorbed damp , it is the heat drawing it out not what is used to the heat, it could be tubes matting or oil filled rads heat is heat .

Heat rises upwards .

I set a full size table up the other week , and the owner had the slates outside and the woodwork inside , I phoned the night before to make sure everything was in the room and dry , when he informed me the slates where still outside just outside the doors , I told him they would sweat and any filler would not set in the joints until they where dry , and if possible could he get them inside before I come the next day upright like a door each slate against a wall , and heat the room overnight to get the damp out of the slates , the wet damp that had been absorbed came out of the slates overnight and also all the nicotine that was on the underside of the slate came out too .

So ANY HEAT under the table will force the slates to sweat any water or dampness out .
normally upwards into the cloth .

[Markus0101]

only if they absorb cold air in the night time and when you switch on any type of heat they will sweat , even the oil filled rads will make them sweat if they have absorbed damp , it is the heat drawing it out not what is used to the heat, it could be tubes matting or oil filled rads heat is heat .

Heat rises upwards .

I set a full size table up the other week , and the owner had the slates outside and the woodwork inside , I phoned the night before to make sure everything was in the room and dry , when he informed me the slates where still outside just outside the doors , I told him they would sweat and any filler would not set in the joints until they where dry , and if possible could he get them inside before I come the next day upright like a door each slate against a wall , and heat the room overnight to get the damp out of the slates , the wet damp that had been absorbed came out of the slates overnight and also all the nicotine that was on the underside of the slate came out too .

So ANY HEAT under the table will force the slates to sweat any water or dampness out .
normally upwards into the cloth .

I see... the room for our snooker normally is on the cooler side. I don't know what course to follow then to speed up the cloth or even if there is a definite answer. It is a new Strachan cloth but on the slower side.

[Geoff Large]

Plenty of brushing and ironing to wear the nap in and keep it flat for a fast cloth .
back ground heat of a 60f set heater under the table on constant is all you need .
you do not have to fry an egg on the slate .
and I have come across serious heat under tables just a few inches from the slate , this distorts the slate and moves the joints and unsettles the joint filler .

ask for the light weight Strachan 6811 next time , they do two one at 30 oz , and one slightly thinner at 29 oz but it is hard to get hold of as they do not make it in large enough quantities .

http://gclbilliards.com/bloxwich-nea...-napped-cloth/

[Markus0101]

Will do the constant brushing and ironing part to wear the nap down plenty. I got the 6811 30oz cloth too I'm sure. 60f set heater? I assume that's just 1 heater slap bang under middle of table set at 15 deg / 60 fahrenheit. Any specific heater? Electric?

[Geoff Large]

Will do the constant brushing and ironing part to wear the nap down plenty. I got the 6811 30oz cloth too I'm sure. 60f set heater? I assume that's just 1 heater slap bang under middle of table set at 15 deg / 60 fahrenheit. Any specific heater? Electric?

A safe thermo controlled one , oil filled is OK , but nothing that is low cost imported low quality unsafe rubbish .
just loom for a good make one . heat rises and will come back down and circulate into the other two chambers under the table .
or use three small 500 watt ones the inner one set slightly lower setting than the two outside ones .