Table maintenance

[hatterboard]

i used the old cushion as a template on a piece of paper, then drew them on the new rubbers after fitting, then gently shaped to the template using a sharpknife. ******* of a job, but i thought i did ok

[Gapster]

I think I can safely write that Geoff will not have to worry about me taking any of his trade..... Whilst enjoyable it's not the easiest of jobs to do first time!

Here is my latest predicament:

http://www.azbilliards.com/rogerlong/roger2.php

Above is a guide to pocket openings, not sure if it's correct but seems logical.

The pockets on my 'cheapo' table have been 'rounded' ie. the original cushion rubber has been shaped with a curve rather than a straight cut - is this normal on Home/Bar tables? I'm probably going to cut my new rubbers 'straight' as it seems easier and should give a better finish.

[Gapster]

Thanks all, I guess this is an old model - I managed to find the cushion fixings behind the side facia earlier and all is off!!

Slate ready to recover, cushions stripped and re-rubbered (with red crap stuff). Tomorrow I'm felting the cushions and glueing the table top. Pics to follow.

The hardest bit is going to be shaping the new rubber for the cushions.

[maryfield]

The Barline will usually have allen key style fixings. If the table has an aluminium strip in the edge then it isn`t a Barline model. Some older tables you have to remove the aluminium which gives access to the screw fixing the cushions. As previous poster said, add a picture of the underside of the cushion surround for ease of identification.

[hatterboard]

surely if yer have removed the top, there will be some idea how the cushions are removed ? i have never seen a barline table, therefore i aint positive. (superleagues an supremes) but looking online it says they have quick release cushions. once taking the top off these have to be visible.
one of the regular fitters on here may give yer advice, but please post pics of the top, just so i can see.
-

[Gapster]

Ha ha, yes you have a valid point hatter but I'm unable to find a professional to travel to where I live (in the middle of nowhere) unless I sell one of my kidneys to pay him/her....

However, I'm not a complete numbnut and I've already removed the top, and removed the slate bed which is already prepared for the new cloth - that bit was easy. Having done that I can't see any obvious sign of where the cushion rails are attached? I can only presume the bolts are hidden behind the side facia?

I'll post pics of the thing as I progress so you can all see how I'm (not) doing....

[hatterboard]

without being rude, if yer having trouble identifying how to remove the cushions, maybe yer best getting a proffessional in to do the job. the lid has to come off anyway to replace the cloth on the slate so that will show how the cushions are attached.

[Gapster]

Can anyone advise me on the correct way to remove the cushion rails on this model, please? I can't see any obvious bolts/screws underneath - maybe the side facias have to be pried off first?

http://www.simplypoolandsnooker.co.u...ic-barline.htm

I've brought all the cloth, cushions, tape and glue from the UK and am now about to start the 'refurbishment' - be a shame to cock it up before I've even started...

[sklskl]

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Hi Geoff, I took off the top of my table recently to give the whole slate an iron instead of doing it with it on and also to see if I could identify any flaws with my cushion problem (ball not rolling along cushion, always away).

I did notice that the bit where the cushion is stapled it hasn't been cut in straight lines. Would this have any effect with my problem?

I've yet to try your pyramid method with the cloth under the slate because I need help lifting it off but will try it some time.

I keep thinking its my floor that's causing the table to be uneven meaning i don't get the balls to roll with the cushion but it is pretty level and the table weighs 200kg so I doubt it could move much. I just can't play cushion shots at all and it's annoying.

As with the iron issue mentioned above I haven't bought a proper iron but the much heavier ones are better because it's the weight that gives you a smooth uniform spread. I use a normal iron and try to apply some pressure on the cloth.

I try to iron my cloth once a week because the table is in a cold room with a higher humidity but I may start doing it twice a week would this be ok?

[Geoff Large]

I know there are a few that will try and sell every gimmick under the sun with a table an iron is not one of them , BUt beleive me the profit margins in those Dowsings billiard irons is just not there to worry about any retailer ripping you off , the Manufacturer sets ahigh wholesale price for these irons so the high cost is down to the manufacturer not the Retailer . who's profit margin is around just 15% less tax .
A normal household iron will do a job , but they are just not heavy enough or shaped correct to do theright job
If you want to save money on an Iron buy an old one that will not work and these can be bought very cheaply , place on a gas or electirc hob to gain the heat in its sole plate . test on a scrap cloth to see that you will not scorch the cloth , then use as a normal iron , the manufacturer charges over £100 with postage and vat to repair an iron with new thermostat and heat element etc .
Iv'e seena few scorch marks from houshold irons and then again some with the proper iron .
an iron in my opinion is a required item to maintain the speed and accuuracy of the table .

[hsn]

I use ordiany cloths iron on my table (Strachan No.10) on low setting (70 C) and it works perfect. Just take care when you iron close to and under the rubber cushions.

If you have 200 + quids to throw out of the window then do go for a billiards iron because they want to sell you every thing until your pocket just cry out!

Thw news paper discoloration test is the simplest way to tell if your ordinary iron is gonna do the job perfectly.

[Gapster]

Thanks again Geoff - an oracle of information....

Never thought about the tape - good idea, though there won't be any sitting on the table edges

I'm guessing the 'contact' adhesive only gives me one chance to get the rubbers in the right place ie. not even a short time to shape to the wood?

[Geoff Large]

no nonsense contact from Screwfix around £8.59p for 1 litre . comes with a brush inside the can

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsens...ive-1ltr/34758

don't forget the tape to apply after the rubber has been shaped , this helps keep rubber on the wood blocks when sat on by players , apply to back of wood and on top of wood and rubber .

http://www.screwfix.com/p/cloth-tape...mm-x-50m/51171

[Gapster]

Geoff. I've seen cushion rubber cement on the web, but can you recommend an alternastive glue for me to attach the new rubbers to the wood cushions?

Thanks

[Gapster]

Thanks Geoff, very informative. I hope my attempts to refurbish (albeit with cheap rubber) will be acceptable. Sadly, I don't have the budget, or access, to professional maintenance....... Where I live they've only just started using the telephone - before it was pidgeons and smoke signals