Table maintenance

[DeanH]

C/H = central heating I think he means, i.e. very dry heat in modern heating systems.

[philip in china]

To finish off the tool you are making first of all heat the end to cherry red and quench it in oil. (Any oil will do- old motor oil, chip fat or whatever). If you quench in water it will probably crack. You then need to temper it by putting in an oven at about 220 celcius and allow it to cool gradually. That should leave it a dark blue colour. You will have drawn some of the hardness that way and it will be ready to use.

[bricktip]

Sounds good Phil. What would you heat it with in the first place?

[philip in china]

Well as an amateur blacksmith I would heat it in my forge! A gas ring would be hot enough to get a good red colour. You are looking for a sort of bright cherry red.

If you don't have success let me know- it will be due to the level of carbon in the steel. So if too soft (it bends) or too hard (it breaks) PM me and I will give you more extensive heat treating instructions but if the bit is about the carbon level I suspect you should be fine.

[maryfield]

Surely easier to deepen the holes slightly using a forstener bit or a suitable size spade bit to accommodate hexagonal head bolts which can be tightened with a socket set. The barrel nut in the frame will have the same thread as the new bolts which can be purchased new for around £ 2 each. Job done and very little faffing about with bits etc.

[philip in china]

Possibly so but if deciding to make the tool that is the way to heat treat it.

[bricktip]

Well as an amateur blacksmith I would heat it in my forge!

This is very common - and I hear it numerous times every day )

[philip in china]

I suppose it is a little recherche bUt I am what I am.

[bricktip]

Surely easier to deepen the holes slightly using a forstener bit or a suitable size spade bit to accommodate hexagonal head bolts which can be tightened with a socket set. The barrel nut in the frame will have the same thread as the new bolts which can be purchased new for around £ 2 each. Job done and very little faffing about with bits etc.

Where would they be available? I was looking at both types of bolts for sale on a website sometime ago when i was just browsing around for other stuff, but i don't remember where.

[maryfield]

I have used ones available or I can get from Peradons. You would need 12. I can get you price for postage unless you wanted to arrange it?

[bricktip]

A price would be good, and used ones would be fine as long as they are in good usable condition. Although the hex bolts would probably be better, I think taking the current bolts out could be asking for trouble

Are the hex bolts the same length as the original slotted types as used in the BCE's?

[maryfield]

I could do either for 2 GBP each. Both have a hex head. Postage I would have to get a quote and would depend on weight. It would be safe to swap over the bolts. I would advise removing and replacing on at a time!

[bricktip]

It would certainly be good to have some hex bolts for future use, but i would still need a slot head tool to take the old bolts out without it being very hard work. I don't really want to take them out though. It would be hard work taking them out now the slates are in the way; Talking of which, will a brace hit the slates if turning full circle?

[maryfield]

You can use a blunt chisel with an adjustable spanner tightened on the blade of the chisel to give leverage. The hex bolts would be put in with a ratchet/scocket. Slates would not be in the way. They would if you used a brace.

[bricktip]

I used something like that to put them in.