STROKE TIMING … A Complete MythBusting Study of Stroke Acceleration Effects

[taipafan]

In the video, Dr. Dave presents some research on "Timing." Primarily, he analyzes whether the cue tip stays in contact with the cue ball for a longer period after impact.

Barry Stark, Joe Davis, and Ronnie O'Sullivan have all stated that for a "power screw shot," a good timing, in which the cue tip remains in contact with the cue ball for a longer duration, will produce a better results.

Barry Stark and Dr. Dave have both conducted high-speed camera analysis, but their findings are contradictory.

Please provide your thoughts on their studies.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0m6g7lBh17c

[taipafan]

Barry Stark, Joe Davis, and Ronnie O'Sullivan talk about "power screw shots", on a 12-foot snooker table with smaller and lighter snooker balls and an 18-ounce cue.

Dr. Dave conducts his research on a smaller pool table using larger and heavier pool balls, a heavier cue, and a central cue ball hit, a stroke with no power, no screw.

[Cue crafty]

Barry Stark, Joe Davis, and Ronnie O'Sullivan talk about "power screw shots", on a 12-foot snooker table with smaller and lighter snooker balls and an 18-ounce cue.

Dr. Dave conducts his research on a smaller pool table using larger and heavier pool balls, a heavier cue, and a central cue ball hit, a stroke with no power, no screw.

Good point, because you need to compare Apples with Apples (like for like) However before high speed tech was around coaches needed to find ways to explain to players how the shot should "feel".

I don't personally think it actually matters whether the tip stays on the cue ball longer or not, the point would be that it "feels" like it does to the player. This notion also promotes the feeling of going after and "getting through" the cue ball.

Joe's book has helped thousands of people over the years to understand how the shot should feel. Dr Dave's proof that the tip doesn't stay on the ball longer isn't really going to help anyone in a tangible way. Just MHO.

[vmax]

Dr Dave is a poor player with a crap cue action and tries to give solace to many other US pool players who fail to find a five inch wide pocket from three feet away. His analysis isn't worth a jot for snooker as he has never played our game on such a big table with a napped cloth, it's the nap he can't understand.

I've conversed with him through youtube comments and he says basic physics ( which I don't understand ) tells him it shouldn't make a difference but it makes a vast difference when using sidespin according to when the cue ball is spinning with the lay of the nap, against the lay of the nap or along the lay of the nap from baulk to top of the table or along the lay on the nap from top of the table to baulk, it behaves in different ways that he can't fathom because he's never experienced it and basic physics can't explain it. Maybe if Isaac Newton or Einstein played billiards he would have a grasp of it but there is no nap between the planets in the solar system or is that the elusive Dark Matter ?

He's right about the nano second the tip is in contact with the cue ball but timing isn't about prolonged contact of tip on cue ball, it's about the tip going through the cue ball at the absolute correct speed before it decelerates after contact and that makes it feel like a prolonged contact because it's been struck properly.

[taipafan]

When I hit the cue ball with a power stun, I feel an impact from the cue.
When I hit with a power screw shot, screw back from an object ball 10 feet away, then 10+ feet back, my grip/fingers feel a soft landing like a SpaceX.
So there must be something different.

[vmax]

When I hit the cue ball with a power stun, I feel an impact from the cue.
When I hit with a power screw shot, screw back from an object ball 10 feet away, then 10+ feet back, my grip/fingers feel a soft landing like a SpaceX.
So there must be something different.

That's because your striking very low and don't feel the full weight of the ball like you do with a centre ball stun strike.

[taipafan]

That's because your striking very low and don't feel the full weight of the ball like you do with a centre ball stun strike.

This bring me a question, sometimes a yellow ball heavily hit into to a red ball, a red spot will remain on the yellow ball, and it is not easy to remove. Does it need to be a full ball impact(yellow to red)? or a half ball(or 1/3 or whatever) impact(yellow to red)?

[DeanH]

This bring me a question, sometimes a yellow ball heavily hit into to a red ball, a red spot will remain on the yellow ball, and it is not easy to remove.

?? You are getting colour/dye transfer from one ball to another?
What make are the balls?
Any photos of this?
Any Red spots on the cue ball?

[itsnoteasy]

This bring me a question, sometimes a yellow ball heavily hit into to a red ball, a red spot will remain on the yellow ball, and it is not easy to remove. Does it need to be a full ball impact(yellow to red)? or a half ball(or 1/3 or whatever) impact(yellow to red)?

I've never heard of that before, you can get a yellow heat spot on the cue ball, especially from a miscue but that fades,does yours fade or do you have to clean it of?

Has the polished surface gone from the balls?

[taipafan]

Regular Aramith Tournament Champion Snooker Balls.
Yes, [colour/dye transfer from one ball to another].

This happens maybe once in two to three days.
It is easy to see when the spot is on the yellow.
When this happened, I can hardly clean the spot by my hand/finger, so I will wipe the ball strongly on the cushion several times.
Sometimes on the cue ball as well.
If I have chance, I will take a photo to post it here.

[Cue crafty]

Hate to give bad news, but it's likely they are a fake set of balls. I've been using TC's for years and so has my group of players I've known many years and no one has experienced that with them.

Did you ever put them in a dishwasher maybe? If not I fear they are not genuine.

[taipafan]

Hate to give bad news, but it's likely they are a fake set of balls. I've been using TC's for years and so has my group of players I've known many years and no one has experienced that with them.

Did you ever put them in a dishwasher maybe? If not I fear they are not genuine.

Balls go to the diswasher everyday, for 10+ years, 10 hours per day playing.
Why it is different after dishwashing? Is there a transparent layer on the surface of the balls?

[DeanH]

oh no, dishwasher tends to be too hot and if you use dishwasher cleaner it is not good for the surface of the balls.
I have never put my TCs through any machine cleaning and only use hand cleaning (put a good movie on and settle in
And I have never seen colour transfer.
I would think that the detergent is attacking the surface and allowing transfer.

Are you cleaning them everyday because of transfer?
I think the start of the issue was/is the dishwasher, this then made you need to clean them again... and repeat... vicious circle

[taipafan]

I play at the club, they use balls cleaner with some kind of polshing fluid everyday, to keep the balls shining, and they have a very good business. Weight of a ball drop to 138g~139g.

[vmax]

This bring me a question, sometimes a yellow ball heavily hit into to a red ball, a red spot will remain on the yellow ball, and it is not easy to remove. Does it need to be a full ball impact(yellow to red)? or a half ball(or 1/3 or whatever) impact(yellow to red)?

That shouldn't happen at all and if it's a regular occurance does it happen with the cue ball as well as the yellow ?
I get colour transfer from black to cue ball on my very old 1920's crystalate balls but I'm sure that's due to age, cue ball is well speckled after a session with them but it cleans off easily, different material to modern balls, heavier and less elastic but still play a good game with them when I'm on form that is.