Is side applied using the method in the 1st file attached or the 2nd or are both ways used by different players ?
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Applying Side on the Cue Ball
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Some people say you should cue through the white, parallel to the same line of aim you would use if you weren't using side.. This would be the 1st picture you have drawn.
However this is not always possible. Due to the amount of power you intend to use, and the distance between cue and object ball. Therefore you need to pick a new line of aim, which is often divergent to the plain ball line. This would be the 2nd picture you have drawn.
In conclusion, it may be possible to cue as in example 1, if you are using minimum side, or the distance between the balls is relatively small. However when you move towards your maximum amount of side, or are playing balls over large distances, you will need to pick a new line of aim and cue as in example 2. Although paradoxically, your new line of aim means you are actually cueing as in example 1, just on another line of aim!!
Hope this helps.Last edited by checkSide; 7 April 2009, 04:05 PM.
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I've used the 2nd method and it doesn't need any aiming adjustment. You get down as you were hitting center ball then move your cue to point to the side and play it but the 1st method needs alignment aiming adjustment and due to this potting success is affected.
Anyway, is the 2nd method non-straight cueing ? If yes, then I've observed that it doesn't affect potting.
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Originally Posted by Hyperonic View PostI've used the 2nd method and it doesn't need any aiming adjustment. You get down as you were hitting center ball then move your cue to point to the side and play it but the 1st method needs alignment aiming adjustment and due to this potting success is affected.
Anyway, is the 2nd method non-straight cueing ? If yes, then I've observed that it doesn't affect potting.
Also the second method is straight cueing, you are just cueing straight along a different line to the plain ball line. This is the concept you need to grasp.
You should be picking your new line of aim to take account of the intended side before you get down on the shot. Not getting down on the plain ball line then adjusting your aim whilst down on the shot.Last edited by checkSide; 7 April 2009, 04:27 PM.
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Originally Posted by checkSide View PostThe second method does need aiming adjustment, you have described it yourself by saying "then move your cue to point to the side". You are therefore no longer aiming along the centre ball line. You have adjusted your aim to take account of the side.
I've found this adjustment to be easy while in the 1st method the more side you apple the more the ball goes to the opposite side and also, you have to approach the cue ball from a different line of aim than in plain ball aiming. The 2nd method also doesn't require this adjustment.
Originally Posted by checkSide View PostAlso the second method is straight cueing, you are just cueing straight along a different line to the plain ball line. This is concept you need to grasp.
Originally Posted by checkSide View PostYou should be picking your new line of aim to take account of the intended side before you get down on the shot. Not getting down on the plain ball line then adjusting your aim whilst down on the shot.
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I believe the second method is called backhand English. Basically after lining the shot up, you swivel your hips to apply the amount of siding you want. For this to be accurate a longer bridge length and knowing the pivot point of your cue is necessary. Both methods have pro and cons, with adjustments needed for both.
Mike
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I use the second method but I do not twist my back hand or move my bridge or do anything like that once I am down. I stand at an angle to the shot, and my follow through will point to the side on shots with more pace, but I still cue through the ball like I would normally.
For very long shots, sometimes I use the parallel method but I aim at a different point.
First method does not really require much adjustment at all on close distance shots.
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It's the first method...you need to address the cue ball where you want to hit it as you get down on the shot and not after.
However, you will need to remember to adjust your aiming point on the object ball according to the amount of side and power that you are using. There are other variables to account for like the nap of the cloth and what sort of condition the cloth is in. This can affect the throw of the cue ball and how much the cue ball will deviate back to its original line due to the side.
In short, this is why potting with side is so much more difficult than plain ball and why you should avoid side unless it's absolutely necessary. However, practice it and understand how it works, and it's nothing to be afraid of.
There are at least 6 key situations I use side:
1) the break off (right hand side just above centre with the cue ball about a ball's width from the brown)
2) if I'm straight on the black and want to screw back and widen the angle off the cushion (screw with either right or left hand side)
3) in and out of baulk when I'm 'wrong' side of the blue
4) just off straight on the black with follow through and running side to speed the cue ball off the cushion and back into centre of the table.
5) playing for position on the blue from a red nearer the top of the table just to widen the angle of the white ball off the cushion with running side. This allows for a greater margin of positional error and more liklihood of getting better position on the blue.
6) getting out of snookers - sometimes side is essential to make the angle. You also have to understand that the cue ball picks up side when it hits cushions so sometimes you will need to use side to negate this, espeically when playing off more than one cushion.
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