The stun

[Malachi-b]

Right i am quite confused about the stun shot im hearing different opinions on how to do it.

Am i right in saying for a normal stun shot you should hit it in the middle with little to no follow through, like "punching" the ball.

and for stun run through you hit it at the top of the ball and vice versa for stun-screw.

also how can stun shots be useful in angle shots ? i thought just using screw and top was needed for angle shots, why use stun?


thanks for the help everyone =D


-Malachi.

[Mr O]

stun run through, hit just above centre.

[dannyd0g]

stun on angled shots off a cushion works a bit like running side, in icreasing both the movement and angle of the path the white takes .

stun on angled shots without a cushion keeps the white behind the object ball rather than following on infront of it.

the only way to understand how it works is to try for yourself in trial and error and practice though.

[Malachi-b]

so i should use little follow through but how am i ment to do this and avoid just jabbing the white ?

[Mr O]

Ye, simply put, you stun the ball on an angled shot to drift the cueball sideways or to bounce off the cushion lol

[Mr O]

so i should use little follow through but how am i ment to do this and avoid just jabbing the white ?

cue the ball same as you would if you were playing with top or screwback, just get the pace of the shot right, like someone else said just experiment with it

[dannyd0g]

it is a punchy kind of strike. if you are a beginner practice stopping the white dead on straight shots. You will then know what kind of strike acieves this. Then you can use the same strike on the angled shots.

IMHO you should forget all about stun run thru if you are a beginner. This is a very advanced shot. Some people (like me) can play for years without being able to do it.

You dont need it anyway. As you can just roll through gently. At least thats what ive been telling myself.

[Rethunk]

Am i right in saying for a normal stun shot you should hit it in the middle with little to no follow through, like "punching" the ball.

It depends on the distance from the cue ball to the object ball. Consider what you want the cue ball to do after it makes contact with the object ball (and, one hopes, pots it). Where do you want the cue ball to go?

The key is what the cue ball is doing at the moment it strikes the object ball.
Stun occurs because the cue ball is sliding across the cloth without having additional forward spin (follow) or backspin (screw) when it strikes the object ball.

If you strike the cue ball in the center with a medium stroke to hit an object ball a short distance away, the cue ball will (or should) be sliding rather than rolling when it hits the object ball. The cue ball will bounce off the object ball at a right angle.

Strike the cue ball at the same medium speed and same center hit but have it travel the length of the table before striking another ball. The cue ball will no longer be sliding by the time it reaches the end of the table, but instead will be rolling. When the cue ball hits the object ball the angle of the cue ball will be less than 90 degrees.

If you want to stun the cue ball off the object ball for a long distance shot, then you can achieve this with screw and (as needed) a firm stroke. At first the cue will be sliding forward with backspin, then it loses the backspin and slides only, and finally it will pick up follow. You need to develop a feel for the speed and amount of screw to make the cue ball hit the object ball at the moment when the cue ball is sliding rather than rolling.

Long story short: the greater the distance from the cue ball to the object ball, the firmer the hit or (for better control) the more screw you should apply. It's inadvisable to change your stroke mechanics from a smooth stroke to a "poke" or "jab". The "poke" or "jab" is causing the cue ball to slide on the cloth, but you can achieve the same effect with a more controlled stroke. A fast stroke is not the same as a jab.

also how can stun shots be useful in angle shots ? i thought just using screw and top was needed for angle shots, why use stun?

If you hit a red with a half ball hit, and if the cue ball strikes one or more rails after the hit, then the path of the cue ball and its final resting position depend on whether you struck the cue ball with follow, screw, or side.

You may need to apply follow or draw to avoid striking a ball that is in the way. Follow and draw affect the path of the cue ball after the moment of impact with the object ball. The effect depends on the fullness of the hit.

If you apply side then you should notice that once the cue ball hits a rail its exit angle will be different than if you had used a center ball hit. This can help you achieve a better position to pot the next ball.




-Malachi.[/QUOTE]

[stjimmy18-1991]

It depends on the distance from the cue ball to the object ball. Consider what you want the cue ball to do after it makes contact with the object ball (and, one hopes, pots it). Where do you want the cue ball to go?

The key is what the cue ball is doing at the moment it strikes the object ball.
Stun occurs because the cue ball is sliding across the cloth without having additional forward spin (follow) or backspin (screw) when it strikes the object ball.

If you strike the cue ball in the center with a medium stroke to hit an object ball a short distance away, the cue ball will (or should) be sliding rather than rolling when it hits the object ball. The cue ball will bounce off the object ball at a right angle.

Strike the cue ball at the same medium speed and same center hit but have it travel the length of the table before striking another ball. The cue ball will no longer be sliding by the time it reaches the end of the table, but instead will be rolling. When the cue ball hits the object ball the angle of the cue ball will be less than 90 degrees.

If you want to stun the cue ball off the object ball for a long distance shot, then you can achieve this with screw and (as needed) a firm stroke. At first the cue will be sliding forward with backspin, then it loses the backspin and slides only, and finally it will pick up follow. You need to develop a feel for the speed and amount of screw to make the cue ball hit the object ball at the moment when the cue ball is sliding rather than rolling.

Long story short: the greater the distance from the cue ball to the object ball, the firmer the hit or (for better control) the more screw you should apply. It's inadvisable to change your stroke mechanics from a smooth stroke to a "poke" or "jab". The "poke" or "jab" is causing the cue ball to slide on the cloth, but you can achieve the same effect with a more controlled stroke. A fast stroke is not the same as a jab.



If you hit a red with a half ball hit, and if the cue ball strikes one or more rails after the hit, then the path of the cue ball and its final resting position depend on whether you struck the cue ball with follow, screw, or side.

You may need to apply follow or draw to avoid striking a ball that is in the way. Follow and draw affect the path of the cue ball after the moment of impact with the object ball. The effect depends on the fullness of the hit.

If you apply side then you should notice that once the cue ball hits a rail its exit angle will be different than if you had used a center ball hit. This can help you achieve a better position to pot the next ball.




-Malachi.

[/QUOTE]

great post, exactly what ive been trying to get across to you malachi. i heard you won 7-0 today, is that true?

[Malachi-b]

LOOOL yeah 7-0 it was a good day

[kcohentan]

Hi guys,

I've also heard from a mate before that if you wish to place a delicate stun shot (i.e. drawing the cue-ball back after hitting an object ball to stay behind another red for example) it helps if you place your bridge nearer to the cue-ball? I've tried this a few time and it seemed to work for me, is it due to the less amount of backswing you can apply?

However, watching ROS in some of his 147s he manages little stuns like that but his bridge is at the normal distance for other shots and he plays them beautifully. The best I can think of is how he plays from yellow to green near the D. I love how he sweetly drifts the ball along the line of the D to gain position on the green – I have absolutely no idea how to do that!!

Finally, what should the grip be on such shots? I tend to play it with a firm grip. Thanks