left/right side spins

[Semih_Sayginer]

Just took a look at the photo's.

I'd have said the origianl ferrule could have stayed on there and instead of replacing it, could have been ground down in length (as long as it's kept cool).

A little tip for you - If you're finding your cue throws the cueball more now than before, do as above and grind the ferrule down to half its current length.

I'll have a fiver on it with you it will improve it.

thats a good suggestion, as if youre having your cue chopped at the ferrule and losing that length then it wont matter a jot by trying this in the first instance

[trevs1]

The main things to look for as to whether a ferrule needs replacing or not is:

Is it loose?
Has it come unseated from the shaft?
Has it split?

In the pictures, you'll notice there is nothing wrong with the seat of the ferrule on the shaft, it's ok. The obvious problem is that it's become distorted at the top. But, if you can imagine removing the top 2 - 3mm, it would look fine if it had a new tip fitted and was re-polished........Job done.....PLUS....

You'd have the added benefit of 'less brass at the end of the shaft'!!! Always a good thing.

Likewise, a ferrule with a thin brass wall thickness is 'ALWAYS' preferable to one with a thick wall. Less brass = more reliable cue.

Not always, but often the case and well worth a go.

[jimbo]

Thanks for the advice! I've just about got used to the throw now, but I'll bear it in mind the next time I change my tip. I love the idea of cutting the ferrule down to increase feel and prevent my cue from having "the chop" Jeez I think I must have left that tip on there for months and months (maybe over a year). After changing its taken me almost a month to get used to it again.

BTW, what is the correct spelling of "ferrule"? I've seen it spelt differently in various places. Ferrule? Ferrel? Ferril?

Cheers,

jimbo

[Semih_Sayginer]

BTW, what is the correct spelling of "ferrule"? I've seen it spelt differently in various places. Ferrule? Ferrel? Ferril?

think its this - http://www.chambersharrap.co.uk/cham...&query=ferrule

[SomeCueist]

...

What any player needs is a cue that allows as much as possible for you to play a shot using off centre striking, but without the need, or at least with minimal need, for making aiming allowances for this throw effect.

In the reply above by Statman, the explanation given is largely accurate, but he doesn't mention the fact that the only way to be able to pot 'fairly' consistently with a cue that throws excessively when playing with side, is to make these rather large allowances in your aim.

The bottom line is.....if you're playing with a cue that throws the white, and you know nothing of the effects of this throw, you won't know when or how to make any aiming adjustments.

It's an area which is one of the most critical in making a cue trustworthy and reliable or not worth a stuff and ready for bunging in the nearest river.

Can I ask if there is one physical atttribute that is mostly responsible for making a cue that throws the white? i.e. is it lack of firmness of the shaft, tip width, ferrule size (I read your follow-up posts) or other factors.

Or, as I suspect, is it a finely balanced combination of all of the above.

Just curious.

[trevs1]

Well, it's not an entirely precise science and is difficult to difinitively pinpoint, but, yes there are some things that appear to have more effect towards it than others but on the whole I'd say it can be a combination of several factors.

Was that vague enough for you?

[SomeCueist]

I want you to make my next cue