Should you build up to full power when playing over the spots ? I can play with no side or deviation at soft and medium should I build up to full power.
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PLAYING OVER THE SPOTS (Full Power)
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[QUOTE=Terry Davidson;623974]Yes, try and get 4-1/2 to 5 lengths of the table while still remaining within a ball's width of the brown spot on the 4th leg (however, this is VERY difficult to do) Wow ! that must take the perfect cue action THANKS for your reply I can manage one and a half length of table (perfect return to blue spot ) starting on brown..........Last edited by denja; 17 February 2012, 12:37 AM.
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Originally Posted by Terry Davidson View PostYes, try and get 4-1/2 to 5 lengths of the table while still remaining within a ball's width of the brown spot on the 4th leg (however, this is VERY difficult to do)
TerryLast edited by bricktip; 17 February 2012, 07:39 AM.
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denja:
First of all you are doing it wrong. When shooting the spot you should always have enough power so the cueball will return to the tip of your cue. This has an added side benefit in that it will teach you to leave the cue extended at the end of the deliver and force you to stay still until the cueball returns and this is very good technique.
bricktip:
If you are on a slow club table perhaps you can only get 4 lengths but on a table with reasonable speed and reasonable cushions a player should be able to hit the cueball fairly accurately and get 4-1/2 lengths at least while keeping the cueball within one ball's width or so of the centreline of the table.
For example, I have #10 cloth on my table which is about 6 months old and is well worn and I don't think my cushion rubber is anything to brag about either. My table would be slower than what you see on TV but it still has reasonable speed and I can easily get 4-1/2 lengths of the table at full power and this is using the 360 training cue or my own cue, no problem.
Although a player would rarely use this kind of power (let's call in P10 on a scale of 1 to 10) there are times like long, deep screw shots when being able to control that kind of power is necessary. However, as a warning to players in general, DO NOT expect to be able to do what the pros are doing on TV unless you have a match table with new #10 cloth or even brand new 6811G since the pros are always playing on new cloths, almost every round in the case of some of the tournaments. In addition, their tables are brushed, blocked and ironed between sessions and I'm sure there are no club players out there who will do that every 4 frames
TerryTerry Davidson
IBSF Master Coach & Examiner
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Originally Posted by Terry Davidson View Postdenja:
First of all you are doing it wrong. When shooting the spot you should always have enough power so the cueball will return to the tip of your cue. This has an added side benefit in that it will teach you to leave the cue extended at the end of the deliver and force you to stay still until the cueball returns and this is very good technique.
bricktip:
If you are on a slow club table perhaps you can only get 4 lengths but on a table with reasonable speed and reasonable cushions a player should be able to hit the cueball fairly accurately and get 4-1/2 lengths at least while keeping the cueball within one ball's width or so of the centreline of the table.
For example, I have #10 cloth on my table which is about 6 months old and is well worn and I don't think my cushion rubber is anything to brag about either. My table would be slower than what you see on TV but it still has reasonable speed and I can easily get 4-1/2 lengths of the table at full power and this is using the 360 training cue or my own cue, no problem.
Although a player would rarely use this kind of power (let's call in P10 on a scale of 1 to 10) there are times like long, deep screw shots when being able to control that kind of power is necessary. However, as a warning to players in general, DO NOT expect to be able to do what the pros are doing on TV unless you have a match table with new #10 cloth or even brand new 6811G since the pros are always playing on new cloths, almost every round in the case of some of the tournaments. In addition, their tables are brushed, blocked and ironed between sessions and I'm sure there are no club players out there who will do that every 4 frames
Terry
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Terry, i have a BCE Westbury (standard cushion northern rubber) at home, and i have read on here before that you also have one, although i have the 6811 tournament gold cloth. Last time i tried the speed test, slightly over 4 and a half runs is just about the most i could get.
This is quite an interesting topic, so I will try again when i get home and see what i can do while also keeping the ball on line.
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Originally Posted by denja View PostYes I always do that remaining down until cue ball hits tip of cue, (SOFT AND MEDIUM) what I wanted to know is it wise to use the same method for higher power shots.
just move the cue out of the way just before it comes back to you and hits the tip at speed...
You will still see how well/straight you strike the cue ball, no probs...
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Originally Posted by cally View PostNot really, how's the ball gonna travel 4 lengths if you keep the cue there...lol...
just move the cue out of the way just before it comes back to you and hits the tip at speed...
You will still see how well/straight you strike the cue ball, no probs...
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