dalboy:
OK...we use a Height, Side and Power scale when teaching students. Height goes from H1 (deep screw) to H10 (extreme top spin and likely a miscue). Side goes R1 to R5 and L1 to L5 (towards outside of cueball) and Power from P1 to P10 with 10 being the most power an individual player can ACCURATELY use).
So exact centre-ball striking would be H5 with no R or L. So when I say H7 I mean about 2 tip widths (horizontal) above H5 centre-ball (using a tip width is near enough) and R2 means about 2 tip widths to the right of centre-ball (vertical line centre).
For the power formula, if you can shoot the spots and get 5 lengths of a table then every half length would be a power increment. On my table which is a little slow right now I can get about 4.5 lengths accurately so it works out to about the same. For this shot on the blue and checking off the top cushion I would use H7/R2/P4 but on a pro table with a new cloth probably H7/R2/P3.
Terry
OK...we use a Height, Side and Power scale when teaching students. Height goes from H1 (deep screw) to H10 (extreme top spin and likely a miscue). Side goes R1 to R5 and L1 to L5 (towards outside of cueball) and Power from P1 to P10 with 10 being the most power an individual player can ACCURATELY use).
So exact centre-ball striking would be H5 with no R or L. So when I say H7 I mean about 2 tip widths (horizontal) above H5 centre-ball (using a tip width is near enough) and R2 means about 2 tip widths to the right of centre-ball (vertical line centre).
For the power formula, if you can shoot the spots and get 5 lengths of a table then every half length would be a power increment. On my table which is a little slow right now I can get about 4.5 lengths accurately so it works out to about the same. For this shot on the blue and checking off the top cushion I would use H7/R2/P4 but on a pro table with a new cloth probably H7/R2/P3.
Terry
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