Does anyone else find they can get a lot more screw on the ball using this than the standard bridge? Was playing around in the club today and i was pulling the white back 3 or 4 feet from a distance of around 7 or 8 feet with this which surprised me. Not really sure why im able to get so much action on the ball compared to a regular bridge, possibly pushing through more than on the standard bridge?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
The loop bridge
Collapse
X
-
Originally Posted by narl View PostDoes anyone else find they can get a lot more screw on the ball using this than the standard bridge? Was playing around in the club today and i was pulling the white back 3 or 4 feet from a distance of around 7 or 8 feet with this which surprised me. Not really sure why im able to get so much action on the ball compared to a regular bridge, possibly pushing through more than on the standard bridge?
I can't seem to get on with the loop bridge, it just feels too odd but I have been meaning to practice with it a bit more."Do unto others 20% better than you would expect them to do unto you, to correct for subjective error"
- Linus Pauling
-
Originally Posted by nrage View PostI think with a loop you can ensure you strike the white lower/where you want to while still giving it everything. With a standard bridge there is a chance that extra power will lift the tip and strike a bit higher than you intended. Terry has reported similar results as yours and credits the loop bridge for making sure he strikes low and with maximum power, which is really what screw is all about.
I can't seem to get on with the loop bridge, it just feels too odd but I have been meaning to practice with it a bit more.
It would probably be even more effective if we had cues with the "pro taper" or whats meant to be the taper for a mannock (in the patent anyway) with the first 15 inches being the same diamater.Last edited by narl; 22 January 2013, 04:38 PM.
Comment
-
Originally Posted by narl View PostI find it quite handy, though i am prone to sending the white into orbit occasionally even with the regular bridge, must be snatching at the ball slightly on some shots.
Originally Posted by narl View PostIt would probably be even more effective if we had cues with the "pro taper" or whats meant to be the taper for a mannock (in the patent anyway) with the first 15 inches being the same diamater."Do unto others 20% better than you would expect them to do unto you, to correct for subjective error"
- Linus Pauling
Comment
-
-
Playing varying caromdisciplines it´s the normal way to hold the cue, but when I changed to snooker I started adopting, what you call the standard bridge. It´s my impression that aiming is easier with the open bridge, while you get a better control of the cue and hit the cueball more precise with the loop bridge.....its not called potting its called snooker. Quote: WildJONESEYE
"Its called snooker not potting" Quote: Rory McLeod
Comment
-
There are a few types of loop bridges. One you can find in Joe Davis book where index finger rests by middle finger and meets the thumb at the same time. Index finger looks sort of curled.
Other type is where your index finger is on top of middle finger, with thumb meeting them too. It is quite tight with virtually no gap, and index finger looks to be in form of triangle. Some people call it "Filipino" style bridge because most if not all Filipino pool pros use it.
I use loop bridge very very rarely even at US pool, but when I do, it's this "Filipino" style. No benefit for me using it for snooker at all. On top of all, snooker cue taper is too severe IMO for such a bridge style anyway.Last edited by ace man; 23 January 2013, 10:18 AM.
Comment
Comment