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Does tip size really affect your game?

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  • Does tip size really affect your game?

    I can't make a long distance screw back, normally is about the distance of half a cue length.... maybe 30" or less
    And sometimes I can't even make a screw back when the cue ball is a bit far from the OB, maybe 45" away !
    Also, I always missed when at cushion tight !!!! :chargrined:

    What my senior told me is that I should have a smaller tip size about 9.5mm to have a better perform on screw back & side spin or during cushion tight, I'm now using a 10mm tip (Talisman WB).

    Is this true ?

    Appreciate for kind advises .....

  • #2
    Sounds like it's more to do with your technique.

    You should be able to screw back fine with 9.5mm and 10mm. I've used both tip sizes with no problem.
    WPBSA Level 2 - 1st4Sport Coach
    Available for personalised one-to-one coaching sessions
    --------------------------------------------------------------------
    Contact: steve@bartonsnooker.co.uk
    Website: www.bartonsnooker.co.uk

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    • #3
      From your information, I think it's about cue action and cue timing. Make sure your cue point at 6( not too low avoid miscue) and try to cue faster not harder to screw back the CB and do not tight your grip too early and too much


      Sorry for my poor english

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      • #4
        Half a millimetre is nothing, it's not your tip size it's your technique. If you want to screw back well then you must play the shot as follows.

        Address the cue ball as low as possible, do not be afraid that you will miscue, you won't as long as the shot is played correctly.

        Lower the bridge hand by getting as much as the palm of your hand on the surface of the table as you can, without altering the position of your thumb, to get the tip low and keep the cue as level as possible rather than raise the butt of the cue in order to strike low which means that you will be striking down.
        Some players drop the thumb so that it's touching the bed of the table by twisting the bridge hand to one side (Kirk Stevens used to) but those that do do so when addressing the cue ball and not after they have done so as this would mean the cue would move off line.

        Pull the cue back slowly on the final backswing, eyes on the contact point of the object ball and keep them there as you push the cue forward with gradual acceleration so that the cue is travelling at its fastest at the moment of impact.
        This gradual acceleration is a tricky one to master as the distance the cue travels isn't great but trying for speed from the get go will make you snatch and play from the shoulder which is to be avoided at all cost. Keep it as smooth as you can.

        Make sure that the tip of the cue goes through the cue ball, do not decelerate until after the cue ball has been struck, eyes on contact point of object ball all the time.

        Keep your head still and stay down in the stance until the object ball has entered the pocket or all balls have come to rest.

        When playing off the cushion raise the butt of the cue a little bit so that you are striking slightly down as this will help to ensure you don't miscue across the top of the cue ball (a common occurrance). Slow backswing, eyes on contact point of object ball, head still all the way through the shot, stay down in the stance position until the object ball enters the pocket or all balls have come to rest.
        Last edited by vmax4steve; 7 June 2013, 06:31 AM.

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        • #5
          The further the cue ball is from object ball the harder it is to screw back, you watch the pros and they can screw back from a object ball that is almost the length of the table, this takes a lot of practise, best to start small and build up your technique,even if you can only manage a screw back of 1 - 2 ft it can still be a great help in your game think about it ! do you need a massive flashy screw back when you are in the reds around the black spot, if you can pot a blue off the spot and screw back into the center pocket from where you are cuing you have a screw back that will cover a lot of situations,cant remember where it was but there was a video of someone playing with a broom handle with a massive tip.

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          • #6
            I made my first tone with an 11mm club cue and I could screw fine. 9.7-10mm is just right for this game IMO. At the moment I use a 9mm, I mushroom the tip to 9.3 but, that's only because I like the cue. I would be more than happy to have the same cue at 10mm..
            For me, when it comes to power shots, I find 'being on balance' with a 'slow, deliberate and straight back swing' will offer a higher percentage of success enjoy

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            • #7
              9.5 would be best but that depends on how you play .. im usin' 9.5 at the moment anythning smaller than 9.5 is not suitable for my playing style.

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              • #8
                Tip size is a matter of personal choice. John Higgins uses a 10mm tip and Sean Murphy uses just under 9mm but both are able to screw back just fine. There is good advice on here just follow it BUT REMEMBER what you see the pros doing on TV is definitely NOT what you can do on a normal club table with slower cloths.

                Do not set your own standards by what you see the pros doing on television.

                Terry
                Terry Davidson
                IBSF Master Coach & Examiner

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                • #9
                  Thanks to all of you, really appreciate.
                  Thank you.

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                  • #10
                    Personally ive always perfered smaller. Got a 9.3mm at the min but awaiting a 8.75mm on my new cue

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                    • #11
                      I always find that in terms of the spin you generate, the condition of the tip is far more important than it's size.

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                      • #12
                        it's a fact that with say a 9 mm tip you will get a better reaction out of the cue ball with screw and when using side. A 10 mm tip you will get less reaction from screw and side but better accuracy when trying to hit middle of the cue ball. I used a 9 mm all my career and got great reaction when screwing the white back and using side, but must admit it was alot harder trying to find middle of cue ball so have to weight it up and see what you prefer. You will also have to work on technique as this sounds that this is what the problem really is. Try focussing on striking bottom of the white and staying there at the address position, during the cue actions and during the delivery and making sure you follow through straight to the chest, then the shot is complete. good luck mate

                        cheers chris small
                        www.ChrisSmallSnookerCoaching.co.uk

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                        • #13
                          I had a maple mannock a while back with a near 11mm tip and could barely get any reaction out of the white in terms of screw. Don't seem to get on with maple cues for some reason so not really sure if it was that or the mahoosive tip.

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                          • #14
                            Iv spared with pool layers on a snooker table and with a 13mm tip pool cue they could almost do the length of the table.
                            I can create enough rotation going just a tip size out from the center of the white, the rest would be timing. I think less is more. How and where you get through the cue ball, I feel is the crucial point.
                            Last edited by j6uk; 7 June 2013, 07:12 PM.

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                            • #15
                              If i could find one, i would love to try an 11mm cue tip, i use a 10 mill tip on a ferrule about 9.5 just now but would trade less reaction for a bigger sweet spot. I dont reckon i could pot a bloody thing with a tip at 9 mill or below, your cue action and alignment would have to be perfection on long shots,and mine is far from it.
                              This is how you play darts ,MVG two nines in the same match!
                              https://youtu.be/yqTGtwOpHu8

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