There's no better feeling than knocking in an 80, and then thinking "yeah, but I missed on 9 really".
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Tight pockets or big pockets
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WPBSA Level 2 - 1st4Sport Coach
Available for personalised one-to-one coaching sessions
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Contact: steve@bartonsnooker.co.uk
Website: www.bartonsnooker.co.uk
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Personally I think if you are a beginner you should not play on tables that are too tight.. That's because you never get chance to learn break building skills as you get so concerned with potting a few balls. Start on nice sized pockets and build a good cue action and learn how to move the cue ball about and then move onto tighter tables without getting frustrated.coaching is not just for the pros
www.121snookercoaching.com
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Yes, any decent club should have a pro standard or even tighter table, if anything to attract the decent players, otherwise the tables could be 'a relaxed fit' to suit the social players and the players to hone there craft.
Originally Posted by CoachGavin View PostPersonally I think if you are a beginner you should not play on tables that are too tight.. That's because you never get chance to learn break building skills as you get so concerned with potting a few balls. Start on nice sized pockets and build a good cue action and learn how to move the cue ball about and then move onto tighter tables without getting frustrated.
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Hi Terry just pulled my table a part today and added a washer behind the steel blocks to open the pockets. They are now exactly 3-5/8" wich should be perfect but what should the side be? and where do we measure from?" Practice to improve not just to waste time "
" 43 Match - 52 Practice - 13 Reds in Line Up "
http://www.ontariosnooker.club
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Les:
Because the side cushions are a little bit further from the fall of the slate the middle pockets will automatically be a little bit easier. There is no way I know of to adjust the size of the middle pockets except for moving the rails out (which would make the corners smaller) or shaving the rubber/wood of the middle pockets.
TerryTerry Davidson
IBSF Master Coach & Examiner
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Originally Posted by Terry Davidson View PostLes:
Because the side cushions are a little bit further from the fall of the slate the middle pockets will automatically be a little bit easier. There is no way I know of to adjust the size of the middle pockets except for moving the rails out (which would make the corners smaller) or shaving the rubber/wood of the middle pockets.
Terry" Practice to improve not just to waste time "
" 43 Match - 52 Practice - 13 Reds in Line Up "
http://www.ontariosnooker.club
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Originally Posted by ace man View PostI agree beginning players should not play on too tight equipment.
Pocket size is indeed a factor which contributes to overall playing difficulty, but it certainly isn't the only one. What good are loose pockets, if you also get slow cloth and/or pinball like cushions, poor quality balls...etc.
For any serious practise, beginner level or not, overall playing conditions must be taken into account.
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If you are hitting middle of the pocket it does not matter what size you play on really. Funny enough I think I actually tend to play worse on a big pocket table than a tight table because I don't concentrate as much and tend to cheat the pocket more and pay less attention to position. Basically they make me lazy.
I don't mind what the pockets are like though as long as the speed of the cloth is good and the cushions responsive - that is more important to me.
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Problem is I never hit the middle of the pocket. My highest break would be 12 without big bagsWPBSA Level 2 - 1st4Sport Coach
Available for personalised one-to-one coaching sessions
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Contact: steve@bartonsnooker.co.uk
Website: www.bartonsnooker.co.uk
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Originally Posted by tedisbill View PostProblem is I never hit the middle of the pocket. My highest break would be 12 without big bags" Practice to improve not just to waste time "
" 43 Match - 52 Practice - 13 Reds in Line Up "
http://www.ontariosnooker.club
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x2 and they stick to the rail
Originally Posted by Byrom View PostIf you are hitting middle of the pocket it does not matter what size you play on really. Funny enough I think I actually tend to play worse on a big pocket table than a tight table because I don't concentrate as much and tend to cheat the pocket more and pay less attention to position. Basically they make me lazy.
I don't mind what the pockets are like though as long as the speed of the cloth is good and the cushions responsive - that is more important to me.
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[QUOTE=Terry Davidson;737372]damien:
There are standardized templates for amateurs which are sold by the IBSF and there are also the older B&SCC ones.
I didn't find any of those at the IBSF page. My club urgently needs one though, since we are experimenting with a not so experienced table-fitter. Any ideas how to move forward?Last edited by miscuehamburg; 18 December 2013, 01:24 AM.Ten reds and not a colour...
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Originally Posted by rightoncue89 View Postget an experienced table fitter!Last edited by lesedwards; 18 December 2013, 11:37 AM." Practice to improve not just to waste time "
" 43 Match - 52 Practice - 13 Reds in Line Up "
http://www.ontariosnooker.club
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miscuehamburg:
If my template drawings didn't help you then I do have another solution for you. I have a set of official IBSF templates here that I don't use anymore. They cost me $300(US) when new and the only thing I did to them is to place the fall of the slate on the top of the main corner pocket template.
I will sell them for $210(CAN) + shipping to you if you want them. This would be around 120GBP + about 45GBP for shipping as they come in a heavy attache case. Certificate included. The price is about $100(US) less than I paid for them or a 33% discount.
TerryTerry Davidson
IBSF Master Coach & Examiner
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