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If you want to play a deep screw for example. Bring the cue back further to be able to get through the cue ball more. Try not to bring the cue back too much, but you need to use all of the cue's resources. In deep screw, it it not just about follow through, and a bit of power, you need to hit the right place on the cue ball. Do not bring the cue back on the final backswing fast for pace shots, have a good action that is smooth, remember, do not hit the ball on the backswing! I mean that you can bring the cue back slowly on the backswing for power shots, not too slow, but this quite slow backswing makes you aware of what is going on.
The more follow through, the better, but the aim is to not jab at the ball, for soft screws and stuns 'around the black', there is not need to follow the cue through as much as possible, but whatever you do, follow through properly and do not stab or jab at the ball. You can follow through to about the chest though. For roll up shots, you would not push the cue through as much.
Sometimes when I do backspin shots the white ball jumps! What is the problem with the shot?
#Age: 22 HB#: 82 #Cue: Mike Wooldridge Vintage Cue # Tip: Mike Wooldridge BlackSpin #Best performance in tournament: Semi-final in an "open to all" Swedish tournament 2015, Swedish U16 tournament champion October 2007 #Current rank in Sweden: 15
Yes, I know, but Snooker wiz said the more follow through the better, I would think that he means follow through with the cue and not in this situation follow through as in top spin.
Bongo explained it really well,when u screw back ,do ur back swings on a constant basis,make sure ur grip is good and firm and ur legs well balanced.
then if it's a long crew back,ur final backswing must be longer and don't forget the pause before delivery.
make sure your basics are correct first .
no need to hit too hard just aim around 6 oclock on the ball and it's all in the technique.
took me a while to get my screw shot perfect.
good practice is put pink on it's spot and try to crew and make cue ball in off in blue pocket.
it worked for me.
later stage,try to bot blue from it's spot and in off in green/yellow pocket.
happy potting
Bongo ur the best,
djamilxxx
All the above are fine but the key is to make sure at the adress the tip is as close to the cue ball as possible, in the authadox position. This will enable you to hit through the ball with perfect timing
there is if the cue goes flying up the table and spears your opponent...
on a serious note, follow through is one of the hardest things to grasp and put into practise correctly.
it's all about the way the cue is delivered through the ball, and when done correctly, it can be 'felt'. you just know it is right. if that makes any sense.
i found a simpler way to teach people the concept is to tell them to 'accelerate' through the cue ball.
by definition, if you are accelerating when you hit the cue ball, you will be 'following through'.
it seems a much easier thing to understand and encourages a smoother cue action quite rapidly.
so, my advice, forget worrying about follow through, concentrate on accelerating through the ball.
if you do this then correct follow through will come naturally.
I always try to "mirror" my follow through with my back swing--rather than thinking of how much I am following through, I focus on how much I am taking my cue back on my back swing.
For a regular shot, I take the cue back may be a quarter of the bridge length; for a soft shot, about 1/8; for little bit more power, may be half the bridge length; for full power, I pull my tip all the way to my bridge, and I make sure I open up at the end of my grip, with my V pressing the cue at the very end of my back swing.
This exact distance is just an estimation and it is different for everyone. I sometimes also adjust how low I hit the ball to vary the distance of screw back: may be 1/4 below center, with 1/8 of bridge distance back swing for the little screw of about 2 balls distance; 1/2 below center with the same amount of back swing for may be a couple balls more screw back, ...etc.
If you have a reliable cueing action you should feel that your tip is staying on the ball for a long period of time as you follow through, and you do not really need to hit the ball with "dead" force when you are following through the ball nicely.
I would suggest practicing potting the straight blue ball into the middle, by placing the cue ball at the same place, and see if you can make the cue ball stop at the same position afterward. i.e. to make the cue ball stop right on the blue spot; make it come back half way between the blue and the cue ball; make it follow to half way between the pocket and the blue; to make the cue ball come back to where the cue ball is, and to make it stop just short of the pocket ... may be try 5 in a row, and then 10 in a row later. You need a consistent cueing action, precise sighting, and good control of your follow through to do this.
I think you need not think too much about following through--you should think about controlling your follow through because that is what cue ball speed control is all about. When your grip touches your chest, your follow through should end.
so, my advice, forget worrying about follow through, concentrate on accelerating through the ball.
if you do this then correct follow through will come naturally.
A very good way of expressing that Mike, to add to Bongo's helpful comments.
As you have you own line of cue tips I wonder if you can comment on whether softer or harder tips make the job of screwing easier (this is beginning to sound like an interview with a pron movie actor ).
Whether there is a trade-off with effectiveness vs longevity of the tip?
Thanks.
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