Originally Posted by eaoin11
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Kevin DeRoo cue maker
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Originally Posted by neil taperell View PostHi Kevin , just reading to your repsonse re : the deflection and you mention a ferrule type . Are you using a different ferrule material than the standard one's ?
We have three Ferrule types to choose from for snooker cues - Brass - thin walled Stainless steel - Fiber ferrule-
For the full effect of a low deflection shaft we recommend the fiber ferrule.
Thanks
Kevin
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Originally Posted by Kevin DeRoo View PostRegarding deflection ;Our laminated shafts generally have no deflection with a cueball to object ball separation of 4 feet
at medium power (even with extreme siding ) .Originally Posted by Kevin DeRoo View PostHey , Thanks for the warning, but I know better than to say "Zero" because that would be false.
Although "no" usually means "zero" but I figure you probably meant something else which is why I asked you.
Correct me if I am wrong but you have given more than one cue to Marco over the years, is that correct? Would you mind to tell us when did Marco start using his currect cue?
Thank you.Last edited by poolqjunkie; 15 March 2012, 01:33 AM.
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Yes ,my assumption was that the reader would relate "no" to 'no compensation"
The player does not have to compensate for cue ball deflection.
Regarding extreme siding (especially under low power)-the player will have to compensate for object ball "kick" but this
is not due to cue ball deflection and will happen with any shaft , regular or low deflection
Marco's cue was made in 1996
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Kevin, thank you for the answer.
I know Marco was looking for a cue before he left Vancouver when he was presented with a Tom Gauthier cue and your cue and he chose yours. I was just wondering if he is still using the same cue or perhaps he has switched to a new cue from you. The cue I saw him used looked to be in top condition, almost looked like a new cue.
I have tried a few of your ash cues (although I could not afford to own any...LOL) and I feel that the playability of your cues is very good and consistent. The quality of snakewood and burr that you select are also very outstanding.
I notice that you use very high ebony prongs on your cues--much higher than any other cues by other makers--may I ask is there a special reason for that?
Welcome to the forum. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Best wishes.Last edited by poolqjunkie; 14 March 2012, 12:24 AM.
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Originally Posted by Kevin DeRoo View PostThe longer Ebony results in a much better cue design for a number of reasons
I am not sure what exactly what length you are referring to nor the reasons that make it a 'much better cue design'
Please enlighten us.
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Originally Posted by Kevin DeRoo View PostHi Everyone. Just letting you know I'm on the forum now. I look forward to interacting with you all.
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Originally Posted by MikeWooldridge View PostDoes it?
I am not sure what exactly what length you are referring to nor the reasons that make it a 'much better cue design'
Please enlighten us.
The main thing that happens when this length is increased is the balance point of the cue goes forward naturally.We needed to achieve this because we wanted our 3/4 shaft cues to maintain a wood to wood joint -not brass to brass -(which produces
the weight with metal) and our customers did not want any "Fat Shafts" -those thicker tapers . The second reason was with regards to 1-piece cues ,we needed to be able to make 1-piece cues between 18 ozs. to 18.5 ozs. without larger grip sizes and again
without "fat shafts" and without adding metal weight which typically made the cue "butt heavy ".
So overall it resulted in a good cue design and our customers are happy.
Thanks
Kevin
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Originally Posted by Kevin DeRoo View PostHe is referring to the overall length of the Ebony from the base of the cue to the top of the Ebony splice.
The main thing that happens when this length is increased is the balance point of the cue goes forward naturally.We needed to achieve this because we wanted our 3/4 shaft cues to maintain a wood to wood joint -not brass to brass -(which produces
the weight with metal) and our customers did not want any "Fat Shafts" -those thicker tapers . The second reason was with regards to 1-piece cues ,we needed to be able to make 1-piece cues between 18 ozs. to 18.5 ozs. without larger grip sizes and again
without "fat shafts" and without adding metal weight which typically made the cue "butt heavy ".
So overall it resulted in a good cue design and our customers are happy.
Thanks
Kevin
after reading pqj's question again, i can see he actually referred to the 'prongs', not the overall length.
so, how long are the 'prongs' and what is the overall butt length on your 1pc cues?
are you using a wood thread joint then on 3/4 cues?
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MW:
The DeRoo cues have butterfly splices (or at least all the ones I've seen) rather than the regular 4-point splices used by most other cuemakers.
Also, one of the problems with 1-piece cues seems to be getting the weight up over 18oz without having a thick and dense shaft or butt but it looks like Kevin overcomes that by increasing the length of the ebony but doing it in a way that doesn't bring the balance point back.
I had a Will Hunt GP 1-piece that had very long ebony splices and it weighed 18.8oz, which is very unusual in a 1-piece I think
TerryTerry Davidson
IBSF Master Coach & Examiner
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