Hi all, long time no see :-)
I play with a Mastercue Probutt, and over time it seems with me polishing, retipping, buffing and whatever else, over 8 years I've tapered the ferrule down to 9mm at the tip, 9.5mm at the base. I want to go back to 9.5mm, and I also have been eying up the Century Titanium Ferrules, so I've just ordered a new 9.5mm one with some new tips.
Question: How best to remove the ferrule? Looking back over the forum it seems heating the brass with either a soldering iron, hot air or carefully with a flame seems best then unscrewing with grips, but I wondered if anyone has specific experience with these cues and how the ferrule is fitted. My local cue chap said he never attempts to heat them, I think he uses a lathe to machine the tip off. I want to avoid losing length at all costs if possible.
I've got some Kapton tape and I'm planning on using that to protect the shaft whilst applying heat.
Any thoughts or better suggestions would be most welcome!
I play with a Mastercue Probutt, and over time it seems with me polishing, retipping, buffing and whatever else, over 8 years I've tapered the ferrule down to 9mm at the tip, 9.5mm at the base. I want to go back to 9.5mm, and I also have been eying up the Century Titanium Ferrules, so I've just ordered a new 9.5mm one with some new tips.
Question: How best to remove the ferrule? Looking back over the forum it seems heating the brass with either a soldering iron, hot air or carefully with a flame seems best then unscrewing with grips, but I wondered if anyone has specific experience with these cues and how the ferrule is fitted. My local cue chap said he never attempts to heat them, I think he uses a lathe to machine the tip off. I want to avoid losing length at all costs if possible.
I've got some Kapton tape and I'm planning on using that to protect the shaft whilst applying heat.
Any thoughts or better suggestions would be most welcome!
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