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  • Cue differences.

    hi.

    just went in to town to get some chalk and went in my local "JJB" sports shop.

    There were plenty of cues at 29.99 with Ronnie and Jimmy White signatures on them.

    After looking at a few and finding a couple that were smooth I wondered what the difference is between these and expensive cues? (Besides the paint job?)

    andy

  • #2
    I can just tell you one simple difference. There is a lot more power in the expensive cues. These cheap cues do have power when they are new. They lose power aftera few weeks. I noticed this because I used to play with these cheap cues. One day used a John Parris cue and WOW it was just great , I mean it felt completely different. It was like the game seemed to be easier with the expensive(branded) cue.
    Who needs 'The Rocket' , When RaNeN is here!

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    • #3
      thats an interesting point.

      Suppose it's down to the quality of the wood.

      Thanks,

      andy

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      • #4
        Originally Posted by ranen
        I can just tell you one simple difference. There is a lot more power in the expensive cues. These cheap cues do have power when they are new. They lose power aftera few weeks. I noticed this because I used to play with these cheap cues. One day used a John Parris cue and WOW it was just great , I mean it felt completely different. It was like the game seemed to be easier with the expensive(branded) cue.
        What do you mean by more power?

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        • #5
          By more power I mean. You dont have to hit the cue ball hard for a screw back or for a follow shot. You can just do it normally. You will notice the difference when you use these two different cues made of different wood.

          Maybe when the ones with less power is new will have equal power as the good wood one. But it wears off after a few weeks.
          Who needs 'The Rocket' , When RaNeN is here!

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          • #6
            so would you recommend buying a few cheaper cues and go through each one until the power wears off?
            Does the power ever wear off the the John Parris cue?

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            • #7
              no but the joints are crap

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              • #8
                Salut Ruddy,

                I would say that you can play with ANY type of cue, from the best one to the Brunswick Club style with a plastic tip and get fun and experience...

                I started with these old cues (all warped ones) that were with the Brunswick table my dad bought and praticed for hours and hours during around 10 years. Then in 1992, I bought my first REAL Cue (Dufferin maple shaft) and few weeks ago my second Custom made one and I can say that I am ready to appreciate the quality and sharpness of the Peradon I just received.

                My advice would be: get a cue that you feel OK with (lucky if it costs you only few bucks!) and PLAY! PLAY! PLAY!

                Get back to us to tell if I was right..(or wrong!! )

                Hope it helps you,

                "OO"

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                • #9
                  Thats another point. The joints arent good. The metal joints come -off after a few weeks. I wouldnt advice you to keep buying cheap cues. Because instead you can buy a good one once and for all. You will not even have to get used to the new one every time you buy it.
                  Who needs 'The Rocket' , When RaNeN is here!

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                  • #10
                    Originally Posted by snookery147
                    so would you recommend buying a few cheaper cues and go through each one until the power wears off?
                    Does the power ever wear off the the John Parris cue?
                    Going back to the original question between cheap cues you buy in sport shops compared to professional quality brands such as Parris is all down to the quality of materials used and the way the cue is made.

                    A cheap cue will be made of largely unseasoned and probably discarded pieces of ash/maple that would be rejected by a quality cue maker. Top quality cues are, or should be, planed down in stages to allow the wood to settle and may be done by hand, or at least machined and planed down to size.

                    The butt will probably be hand spliced in Ebony as opposed to the simulated (painted) splices you see on some cheaper cues. The use of Ebony to decorate the butt is mainly to add natural weight to the cue as it helps to give a natural balance. Many cheaper cues tend to be poorly balanced but that doesn't mean you can't get used to the cue. It just means that you might not get the best feel or reaction of the shot.

                    Joints play a little part in how a cue plays but not a substantial effect. So long as the cue has a solid joint, is well fitted then it shouldn't affect how the cue plays. However its a lottery on whether the joint has been fitted well or if it comes loose after a few months. Having not played for any length of time with a cheap cue I couldn't say what the standard joints are like but it wouldn't surprise me if they were poorly fitted and did come loose after a short while.

                    The biggest factor of how a cue plays, especially when new, is the tip. Usually most cues, expensive or cheap tend to have poor tips fitted. This can play a large part in how the cue feels and of course the response to shots with top spin/back spin etc. I would recommend anyone buying a new cue to fit their own tip on it as soon as possible and to give it a few hours of playing, (to allow time for the tip to bed in), before really assessing how the cue plays.

                    Finally, cues do not have certain powers that wear off after time, this is a silly statement and should be ignored. The only power that comes from the cue is the person delivering it. Some cues may feel lifeless, some responsive, but that is all down to the individual using it. This is why its usually a better option to try a cue out first before deciding whether to buy it.

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                    • #11
                      Originally Posted by cueman
                      Finally, cues do not have certain powers that wear off after time, this is a silly statement and should be ignored. The only power that comes from the cue is the person delivering it. Some cues may feel lifeless, some responsive, but that is all down to the individual using it. This is why its usually a better option to try a cue out first before deciding whether to buy it.

                      You may think its silly. I am sure its not. You try playing with a cheap cue and then play with a good quality cue and you will feel the difference. I said so cause I have felt the difference many number of times. Playing with a cheap cue and a good standard cue is a lot different.
                      Who needs 'The Rocket' , When RaNeN is here!

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                      • #12
                        ranen, I was talking more about the power of cues and wearing off after a while. As I mentioned cues do have different feels, some are more responsive than others and some feel lifeless, this is why there is so much choice out there, otherwise we could all pick up any cue and be able to use it.
                        Perhaps what you noticed with cues and how they feel different, e.g. losing power, I think its to do with the tip. New tips tend to start of soft, kind of spongy, and will give easy response to screw shots, when they get harder though they give a better more solid contact but it will dampen the effect of spin. This is another reason why I don't like the tips on new cues as they don't tend to use a quality tip.

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                        • #13
                          Ok , I know the tips also play a major part.
                          Who needs 'The Rocket' , When RaNeN is here!

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