Ok, you do not need to keep oiling it over and over. You will find it will start to get thick and this will get sticky. Before i can offer advice what grade paper/wool have you been using?
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
How to apply linseed oil to cues?
Collapse
X
-
Look on the back of it. It should be printed on it. Really you should be removing varnish with something like 180 grit, then going up to something like 1500-2000 if you want a nice proper smooth finish. Anything too course will take the black grain out and you will have trouble getting that back.
When you oil wood its called "feeding". The wood will only take in what it needs. If you have not got the finish right no amount of oil will make it shiny.
Comment
-
I tried reapplying coats of oil with steel-wool from one of flame's advises and remembered RGCirencester also did mentioned before, should say the result's absolutely fabulous.
I noticed the oil adsorbing faster more evenly into shaft if not better. Have done it by rotating my cue shaft lightly around a small roll of steel-wool.
As what i've experienced, "true, be caution to remove fine steel-wool's particals left on shaft before the final buffing as they're hardly visible under normal lighting condition. Wish you all the best and enjoy the oiling process just like me, Cheers!Last edited by wannabenumb; 4 February 2010, 04:10 PM.Will those snookies im playing with ever stop calling me a 'ONE-pointer for a day!
Comment
-
Flame Whats the last stage? Oiling or final sanding?
Monkey Probably too late for you but I got various grades of sandpaper in Halfords today. They do a pack for £2.49 which has 4 different grades 240,600,800 and 1200. Didn't know there was 2000 stuff till now!! Was in B&Q but they didn't seem to have much in the way of "super-fine" stuff.
The cue I'm cleaning up, following all the tips from Forum members, is turning out lovely. Very satisfying. (PS Must get out more!)
Comment
-
All those doing this need to get hold of some cue papers. There are 2 kinds I know of, "Winners" cue paper and "Q-Smooth". They are micro-fine abrasives. You think 2000 is fine, wait til you try the 30,000 grade. You get 3 different grades and they make your cue feel smooth as a baby's ar$e
Comment
-
Originally Posted by Acrowot View PostHave never, ever touched a cue with sandpaper in my life. Are you playing with a broom stick?
Never known anyone to do it.
:snooker:
Comment
-
Originally Posted by Mr O View PostAll those doing this need to get hold of some cue papers. There are 2 kinds I know of, "Winners" cue paper and "Q-Smooth". They are micro-fine abrasives. You think 2000 is fine, wait til you try the 30,000 grade. You get 3 different grades and they make your cue feel smooth as a baby's ar$e
Comment
-
Originally Posted by Bigmeek View PostMr O Thanks for the tip. I had a look at the "Winners" and "Q-smooth". If I put you on the spot which one would you go for? Your personal preference is good enough for me if they're both much the same. I'd like to try one of them out as I am finding it hard to believe I could get my cue much smoother than it is just now and I've only got up to 1200 grade sandpaper. Don't see the point in going to 2000 grade. I've not got much experience of baby's bottoms but I noticed my maple cue is turning golden brown but think that is the linseed oil!!
Comment
Comment